Where Bill Clinton missed out in his time. But, since no bad advice would be given to the American president, having received a turn from the gate, he simply crossed the bridge to the left bank, to the Heumarkt square, where he settled down at the Zur Malzmühle brewery, having roasted Rhine-style marinated beef and local Kölsch - "Mühlen". I’ll tell you more about this brewery.

"Zur Malzmühle" translates as "At the malt mill". There has indeed been such a mill in Cologne since the 16th century, although historically it was located a little further from Heumarkt and stood on a stream, which has now been removed under the pavement.

The Malzmühle brewery on Heumarkt was founded in 1858. Several types of beer were brewed in it, including malt beer, which you can still try today. It has little alcohol - only 2 degrees, it is dark in color and sweet, very specific. But my favorite is Mühlen-Kölsch. It has a pronounced malty taste, and, as you can see from the photo, it is a rich golden hue.

Malzmühle is one of the few breweries that continues its much-needed activities in the center of Cologne, and not in the outskirts. In the front of the house there is a beer hall, and in the back is the brewery itself. The owners of the brewery are the fourth generation of the Schwartz family. During the Second World War, the building was destroyed, only this impressive façade survived.

After the war, the owners tried to restore the interiors in the spirit of a typical Cologne beer hall. Namely: white-scrubbed tables and simple chairs, heavily sash windows, giving the room an intimate twilight.

Guests enter the beer hall through an entourage “turntable”.

Malzmühl has two large halls. The walls, as expected, are made of dark wood panels.

There are lamps under the ceiling, creating a calm, even soporific atmosphere.

Panoramas of Cologne are hung on the walls, and pewter is placed on the panels. If you sit by an open window, you can observe the constant rustling of people and cars on the Heumarkt. But this is not for everyone.

In the back of the large hall there is a wooden staircase leading up to a balcony, where you can also sit. In addition, there is a smaller room on the first floor.

And of course, “Maltzmühl” has preserved its own “confessional”; here you can sometimes see the owners of the brewery behind the cash register.

And this is the second large hall. By the way, we couldn’t get into Malzmühle several times: due to the fact that there are only two halls, all the tables are quickly reserved, and in the evenings it’s always sold out. I haven’t seen anything like this in any pub yet: so that it’s impossible to find room for a couple of people.

“Malzmühle” is a favorite place for get-togethers not only for townspeople and tourists, but also for gatherings of carnivalists, so all the walls here are decorated with carnival orders. Konrad Adenauer also loved to be here - he knew a lot about good beer!

As is tradition, we tasted pork knuckle and blood sausage here (Cologne cuisine is not for people on a diet). Everything was very tasty, although we found it a little too salty. However, this is a clever move in any pub: to make guests order more beer.


The word “Kölsch” has three meanings: this is the German name for a resident of the city of Cologne, the Cologne dialect of the German language in which this resident speaks, as well as the type of beer that is drunk in Cologne. As if there is even a saying: “Kölsch is the only language you can drink.”


I have tried Kölsch beer before, but this time I managed to do it more thoroughly and methodically. I’m currently working on a new version of my big book about beer, which the Moscow publishing house BBPG plans to release again at the end of the year. Therefore, as an author, I have to constantly work, literally not sparing my belly, using every opportunity to enrich my beer experience.

It should be noted that Kölsch is a unique beer that is not brewed anywhere (or rather, should not be brewed) except in Cologne. After all, Kölsch is a local specialty, as protected a landmark as cognac and champagne in certain areas of France. And although foreign brewers in some countries brew their own versions of Kölsch, if you want to know the real taste of Kölsch beer, you will have to go to Cologne. Everything else is nonsense.

And even in Cologne, not just anyone brews Kölsch, but only brewers who united in their guild in 1986 and signed a special Convention establishing the rules for the production and consumption of this drink. For example, the barley for this beer comes only from the Lower Rhine or the shores of Lake Constance. In 1997, this convention was approved by the European Union and protected the rights to the name Kölsch. Here are all 23 brands of Kölsch beer, which is brewed in Cologne in accordance with the mentioned Convention. Only this beer has the right to be called Kölsch.

The Kölsch variety is a light, clear top-fermented beer (Kölsch fermentation takes place at temperatures of +13-21 °C) with a distinct hop bitterness and a strength of about 4.8 vol.%, which is brewed from wort with a density of 11.3%. It is said that Kölsch is brewed in accordance with the classic rules of the Bavarian “Commandment of Purity” (Reinheitsgebot) of 1516, although in Cologne they believe that they began to prescribe quality rules to brewers much earlier than they were done in Bavaria. I suspect that the Bavarians are unlikely to agree with this, and they are unlikely to be delighted with this type of beer. But Cologne residents have their own pride and, according to my observations, they drink almost exclusively Kölsch beer, although it is not a problem to find other types of beer in Cologne.

There is a certain culture of drinking Kölsch beer. Traditionally, this type of beer is rarely produced in bottles, but is drunk mainly in beer houses on draft Kölsch. For this reason, Kölsch is a particularly socializing drink that promotes communication, since it is usually not drunk at home alone in front of the TV, but only in the company of friends, comrades and colleagues. Kölsch is very conducive to collective pastime and communication.

This beer is traditionally drunk from narrow, thin-walled cylindrical glasses with a capacity of 0.2 liters, called Kölner Stange. It is believed that if this beer is poured into a larger glass, the foam quickly settles and the beer loses its attractive appearance and taste. By the way, Kölsch is drunk quite warm, at a temperature not lower than 8°C, since all ales (top-fermented beer) reveal their taste better at a higher temperature than lagers.

When you drink Kölsch in a restaurant, the waiter immediately brings you a new glass as soon as your previous one is empty. And on the coaster, the waiter marks the number of glasses drunk with a pencil and chopsticks. This is necessary for the final calculation. If you no longer want beer, you need to place the coaster on top of your glass, closing it.

I was surprised to discover that in some establishments Kölsch is served in glasses with a capacity of 0.3 liters or even larger. It is known that in the most sophisticated and traditional places, Kölsch is served in very small glasses with a capacity of 0.1 liters (German: Stößchen). Some may think that beer should not be drunk in such ridiculous doses. However, according to my observations, small glasses should not be misleading: this does not at all prevent the Cologne public from drinking a decent amount of beer and being quite tipsy. Moreover, many people walk around the center of Cologne in the evenings, popping into different beer halls one by one to take another glass. Beer houses are never empty; it is always noisy and fun.


Waiters scurry back and forth, whose familiarity, sometimes bordering on rudeness, has become the talk of the town. This is the signature style of waiters in Cologne, don't be surprised.


Women are very rare among the waiters serving Kölsch. But, as you can see, they do occur. And not rude at all.


Waiters carry cups of Kölsch in special trays, reminiscent of the 10-12 charge drum of a revolver. This tray is called Kranz Kölsch.


And these tanned guys are pouring Kölsch from a barrel in the Peters Brauhaus beer hall, probably Afro-Cologneites...


Real Cologne residents usually don’t sit at tables in beer halls. One can almost unmistakably say that tourists and visitors are sitting at the tables, or that some kind of corporate party has gathered here.


And real Cologne residents usually drink their Kölsch standing up, without snacking on anything. So as not to sit for a long time, but drink a glass and go to the next pub. Therefore, in any beer hall for true Cologne residents there is standing room not far from the entrance.


There are also cozy nests for couples in pubs.

Today Mikhail will talk about his journeyBy Cologne...

Like any German city, Cologne is famous for its beer. Kölsch is perhaps one of the most famous varieties produced in Cologne. Although it belongs to the Lager category, this does not mean that it is all the same. Kölsch is brewed in private breweries, of which there are about seventy in the city. And each has its own recipe for cooking, its own secrets of production. Kölsch is traditionally not produced in bottles, but is drunk exclusively in breweries.
In each brewery, Kölsch has its own unique taste nuances, which they are proud of and carefully guard the secret of their origin. The brewery welcomes beer lovers in the evenings, and there is no fundamental difference in how you drink beer - sitting at a table or standing at the counter. The main thing is to gather a cheerful, close company that is in love with the very process of drinking beer, because they don’t eat beer with anything, they drink, drink and just drink. A standard 200 ml glass that you order upon arrival may only be your “first”, and all because as soon as you drink one glass, they will certainly bring you another glass of beer without an additional order. It is carried in original devices reminiscent of the 12-15 charging drum of a revolver.
There is no end to this life-giving beer river. If you already feel that your “shore” is close and you can’t handle another glass, then you can cover your empty “cup” with berdikels lying on the table (these are cardboard coasters for glasses of beer). Traditionally, tall, large guys, a little rude, but very proud, work as beer peddlers in breweries. Working in elite breweries is very honorable. The blue uniform of a beer peddler confidently walks among true beer connoisseurs. If you want to gain favor from this healthy and strong guy, then you need to give him a glass of beer as a sign of gratitude and respect. These guys really can drink more than one or two liters in an evening, for them there is never too much beer and they are unlikely to cover their glass with beerdickels. Of the four or five types of Kölsch beer tasted during the evening, Gaffel Kölsсh left the most vivid impression, it’s a pity that you can only taste it after visiting the glorious city of Cologne.


Now only about the most basic thing, about it, about Kölsch beer. You can experience the aroma and exquisite taste only by visiting Cologne or the city of Bonn located not far from it. Light sparkling beer with an alcohol content of up to 4.7% should not be transported for a long time, as this can cause its quality to be lost irrevocably. Therefore, the Cologne breweries supply the entire surrounding area with aromatic Kölsch beer on tap.
Traditionally, Kölsch is served in beer gardens and pubs by Köbes, a strong, well-built waiter. And you shouldn’t call him Ober, as is customary in other parts of Germany; even without your calling, he will always be there if your glass is empty.
And this will continue until you feel that the beer has filled your entire being from head to toe, then feel free to put a cardboard circle from under a glass of beer on the glass - this will serve as a signal to the man in the blue uniform that you “fed up.”
Köbez moves decisively between the rows with a huge Kolschkranz tray, which, with up to 15 slots for glasses on the bottom, looks like a loaded Colt clip. The glasses are traditionally tall, with steep, even walls, although their capacity is only 200 ml. True beer connoisseurs argue that you should not drink beer from large glasses, as this will dissipate the aroma of the beer and the bright sparkling palette will disappear. The draft type of Kölsch beer is popular, although there are fans of beer in special barrels, and even in bottles. Cologne stamps Sion, Gansa, Dom, Gaffel and Kuppers most popular today. If you come to Cologne, you should definitely visit the FRÜH beer garden, beloved by all locals and tourists.
It is located next to the beautiful Cathedral - one of the famous landmarks of the country. In front of the restaurant entrance there is a fountain of the Cologne gnomes. When you go inside, you find yourself in an old beer cellar. Guests are seated on wide wooden benches at large, slightly rough wooden tables with uncovered tablecloths. In any weather, at any time of the year, the restaurant is full of visitors. The hall can accommodate up to three hundred people, and tables are also set up on the street near the entrance to the restaurant.
The Peter Josef Früch brewery, opened back in 1904, offers its signature beer of the same name, delicious traditional German dishes, and Cologne snacks.
While walking around Cologne in the evening, we stopped by this beer restaurant, fortunately the guide recommended it earlier in the day as one of the real beer pantries. We were welcome as soon as we crossed the threshold of the establishment. The fit, nimble and rather strong Kobez led us along the countless tables at which guests of the establishment were sitting, either privately or in large groups. It seemed that, winding through the semi-basement corridors, we would never be able to find a free corner, but we were incredibly lucky; near the very passage there was a wooden table with benches, as strong as our waiter.
And here is the menu in our hands. What do we want? Yes beer of course! And traditional German sausages, how could we live without them? Not even a couple of minutes had passed before the beer was in thin glasses on our table. To our questioning glance, while assessing the amount of beer, Köbez marked something with a pencil on the cardboard... The first sip was taken, the beer was excellent, unusual, having its own unique aroma and subtle unfamiliar taste. Having only had time to taste the charming drink, the beer was already drunk. Our ubiquitous waiter, out of nowhere, was already standing in front of us with full glasses of beer. While waiting for the signature German sausages, six marks had already been made in pencil on our cardboard berdikels, each of us downed three glasses of excellent Kölsch beer. The sausages only increased our appetite and the desire to drink more than one or two glasses of Kölsch. An hour later we were already looking for a toilet in the endless labyrinths of basement closets and corridors. It wasn’t difficult, but it’s impossible to do without him in such an establishment. And so, returning back to our roughly hewn wooden table, which had already become a cozy “our” corner, we with great pleasure began to eat a new portion of Kölsch with an equally tasty fried pork leg. The evening continued, neither we nor our neighbors from Scandinavia, who had chosen the far table, were in a hurry to leave. And how can you leave this paradise of Cologne, where wonderful food and the enchanting Kölsch drink made your vacation truly divine?

Options: OG: 1.044 - 1.050 | FG: 1.007 - 1.011 | ABV: 4.4 - 5.2% | IBUs: 18 - 30 | SRM: 3.5 - 5| CO2: 2.4 - 3.1 vol

General impression: A clean, crisp beer with a delicate balance, usually with very subtle fruit and hop character. Muted maltiness throughout the sip leads to a pleasant, well-attenuated and refreshing finish. This beer is characterized by freshness, as its delicate character can quickly fade with age. Characterized by brilliant transparency.

Aroma: Low to very low malt aroma with a grainy sweet character. This is acceptable, but there is not always a pleasant subtle fruity aroma (apple, cherry or pear) as a result of fermentation. A weak hop aroma (floral, spicy or herbal) is optional and is not a stylistic inconsistency. Some yeast strains may produce a slightly winey or sulfurous character (optional, not an error). Overall the aromatic intensity is quite low, but balanced, clean and fresh.

Appearance: Very light to light gold. Very clear (authentic commercial versions are filtered to a shine). A delicate foam head may not be very durable.

Taste: Smooth, rounded, delicate flavor balance between soft but fermented malt, almost imperceptible fruity sweetness from fermentation and medium-low to medium bitterness, with a delicate dryness and slight freshness in the finish (but without a harsh finish). The malt tends toward grainy sweetness, perhaps with a very slight bready or honeyed quality. Hop flavor ranges from low to moderately high, medium-low to medium intensity, and has a floral, spicy, or herbaceous character. There may be, but is not necessarily, a malty-sweet sensation at first. No noticeable residual sweetness. There may be a slightly vinous, mineral or sulfur accent that emphasizes dryness and flavor balance. A slight wheat taste is sometimes present and is not a mistake. Anyway, very clean.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body (most examples are medium-light). Carbonation is medium to medium-high. Round, generally crisp and well fermented.

Comments: In Germany it is described as a top-fermented and cold-matured beer. Each brewery in Cologne brews a different character of beer, and each interprets the Kölsch Convention slightly differently. Drier versions may taste hoppier or more bitter than the IBU suggests. Due to its delicate flavor profile, Kölsch has a relatively short shelf life; older or imported samples may clearly show some oxidation defects. In Cologne it is served in tall, narrow 200 ml glasses called Stange- "rod".

Story: In Cologne, top-fermentation has been used since the Middle Ages, but the beer known as Kölsch developed in the late 19th century as a competitor to bottom-fermented pale lagers. Kölsch is a geographical name protected by the Kölsch Convention ( Kölsch Convention, 1986), and can only be produced by about 20 breweries in and around Cologne. By convention, Kölsch is simply defined as a light, well-fermented, clear, top-fermented beer of normal strength with a hop accent - Vollbier.

Characteristic Ingredients: Traditional German hops (Hallertau, Tettnang, Spalt or Hersbrucker), German pale malt or pils. Pure ale yeast with good fermentability. Up to 20% wheat malt can be used, but it is quite rare in authentic versions. Current commercial practice is warm fermentation, short cold maturation and consumption fresh.

Style Comparison: It is easy for an untrained taster to confuse Kölsch with cream-elem or light pilzom.

Commercial examples: Fruh Kolsch, Gaffel Kolsch, Muhlen Kolsch, Reissdorf Kolsch, Sion Kolsch, Sunner Kolsch

This is Cologne Cathedral. The third tallest temple in the world, one of the most visited attractions in Europe, the beauty and pride of the city of Cologne. Almost an example of Gothic architecture. To visit Cologne without seeing this famous cathedral is truly criminal.

And this is Kölsch. Quite a light and refreshing beer that is brewed only in Cologne and nowhere else in the world. For people who understand, it is also quite a Cologne landmark, no worse than many. Visiting Cologne without trying Kölsch in one of the most atmospheric beer halls is reckless and unwise.

In principle, in order to try Kölsch, you don’t have to go to Cologne; it is served in many establishments in the surrounding cities - but only in Cologne, when you get into one of the famous beer halls where Cologne is both brewed and served, will you understand what it is. The beer halls are never empty, it is always noisy and cheerful, and waiters are scurrying here and there, whose familiarity, sometimes bordering on rudeness, has become the talk of the town.

The cathedral is quiet and peaceful at this time.

And right opposite the cathedral is one of the most famous beer halls in Cologne. They brew fruh kolsch here, which seemed to me the most delicious of all the varieties I tasted. Due to the fact that Kölsch is a top-fermented beer, it can be classified as an ale, which is quite unusual for Germany, which is famous primarily for its lagers. But the land of North Rhine-Westphalia is famous for two ales at once: Kölsch and Altbier compete with each other in the same way as Cologne and Düsseldorf do. However, both beers are aged after fermentation in the manner of lagers, so it makes sense to talk about mixed technology.

Kölsch is served in modest 0.2 liter glasses. (in some establishments, mere beakers are used - 0.1 l.). Of course, it can also be poured into ordinary glasses - but in proper beer halls there are no other volumes, so waiters run around with special trays on a long handle. Such a small glass can be drained in one gulp - and this is the best solution, since the kölsch quickly fizzles out, losing its taste.


By the way, about the Kölners: their familiarity and rather shameless manner of communication are a tradition that the residents of Cologne sacredly honor. Obviously, not everyone likes this - for example, the Peters pub especially notes that the local waiters, unlike others, are never rude or shortchanged. From my own experience, I note that they are really polite (although not excessively), but their service is rather sluggish.

I'm not such an expert when it comes to competently describing taste sensations, but the Peters kölsch itself seemed a little rougher to me than its brother from the fruh beer hall.

Another pub we managed to visit is Sion. Unfortunately, I was not able to visit all the beer halls in Cologne - despite the small volumes of glasses, the waiters work very efficiently, so you quickly get tired of beer - but the Sion establishment seemed quite cozy to me.

And the beer itself tastes very pleasant, although, perhaps, without any zest.

If you go from the cathedral not to the fruh beer hall, but in the opposite direction, another beer hall will open - Goffel.

I can't say anything good about the beer here. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but the Goffel was a total disappointment due to its distinctly musty aftertaste. As a result, fruh took first place in my personal rating - by the way, the beer hall there is the largest in Cologne, it can accommodate up to a thousand people, so if you are in Cologne, I strongly recommend it.