The taste of Tuscany is the taste of wine, olive oil and other delicacies; A full acquaintance with these tastes means not only tasting the best samples, but also observing the nature, landscape and production through which they are born.

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The gastronomic tradition of the region is extremely rich: Tuscany alone has 42 wines certified at EU level (DOC and DOCG categories). Also in Tuscany there are 19 farms with registered origin and as many as 455 traditional products. For those who want to learn more about the richness of the local gastronomic culture, there are specially designed routes.

Wine route Vino dei Colli di Candia (Lunigiana)

Spelled Garfagnana IGP © finedininglovers.it

The main product of the Garfagnana region is the chestnut; for many years it was a staple food. No less famous is the local spelled IGP category (patented geographical name), from which many soups are prepared. The neighboring region, Lunigiana, is famous primarily for lard from Colonnata (also IGP category). You should also definitely try “testaroli” - a kind of pancakes cooked on special disks of “dough” made of cast iron or iron directly on a live fire, “zgabei” (strips of fried dough) and “panigacci” (flatbread made from water and flour, which are baked in wood stove). This corner of Tuscany, despite its mountainous landscape, produces wine of two appellations of origin (DOC): Candia dei Colli Apuani Doc and Colli di Luni Doc.

Lucca and Montecarlo: wine and olive oil

© comitatounplilucca.wordpress.com

Lucca's DOP extra virgin olive oil is produced from at least 70% Frantoio olives, as well as Leccino, Moraiolo and Pendolino varieties. Local specialties include garmuja soup made with meat and vegetables, pies with artichokes, onions or potatoes, and trout with pan-fried beets. The main dessert is a buccellato cake made from flour, butter and sugar with the addition of raisins and anise seeds. Wines from the Luccan hills (Colline Luccesi) and from Montecarlo (Montecarlo) are extremely ancient history, dating back to the Etruscan era.

Tastes and colors in the Apennines of Pistoia



Two traditional products for which this region is famous are the ornamental citrus fruits of Tuscany IGP and the magnolia of Pistoia IGP. Local farmers are also proud of the beans from Sorana IGP: this variety, with white, small and slightly flattened fruits, has a very delicate taste, which was appreciated by the composer Gioachino Rossini. They also make pecorino cheese from raw sheep's milk from the mountains and valleys of Pistoia and sweet chestnut flour from the mountains of Pistoia.

"The Chestnut Road from Mugello" to Marradi

Chestnuts from Mugello © teladoiofirenze.it

For a long time, residents of the town of Marradi have associated its history and name with chestnut: it is also called here “ breadfruit“, since not so long ago for the inhabitants of the mountains, chestnut was one of the few sources of food. Local chefs have created a lot of different recipes that will help you appreciate the main product of these forests; In October, a chestnut festival is held in his honor - Sagra delle Castagne. In addition, in this area they love and know how to cook mushrooms, polenta, tortelli, sausages, sauces and game main courses.

Products of the Casentino Valley

Prosciutto from Casentino DOP © ilmangiaweb.it

The products of the Casentino Valley have been renowned for their quality for centuries. As in many other places in Italy, local producers try to use local products and raw materials as much as possible. Far beyond Casentino, local ham (Dop category), Sanbudello pork salsiccia, and the meat of the white Chianina bulls of the central Apennines (IGP), from which the famous Florentine steak is made, have become famous. Abbucciato cheese from Arezzo is not quite ordinary; Cetika is famous for its chestnuts, truffles and red potatoes. The latter is grown in the traditional way and used to make tortelli (dumplings).

Route along the Tuscan part of the Tiber Valley (Valtiberina)


In this valley, white Central Apennine bulls of the Chianina breed (IGP) are raised, the meat of which is ideal for steaks, as well as baking, stewing and boiling. December and January are considered “pork season,” when sausages, hams, salsicci, sambudelli, soprassata, capocolla, cicciloli and other meat products are prepared. The local olive oil smells of herbs and is made from the varieties of Gentile, Morcona, Oriola, Frantoia and Leccia. The list would be incomplete without Kentucky tobacco, which is used to make the famous Tuscan cigars.

Wine route around Arezzo



The Val di Chiana gave its name to the Chianina cow breed, which is now raised in other parts of Tuscany. The meat of this breed has a distinct taste and contains a moderate amount of fat, evenly distributed throughout the meat. This is why the finished meat is so soft. A special variety of beans, “zolfino” and “valdar beans,” grow here. Among the meat products, we mention porchetta, a suckling pig roll baked in a wood-burning oven. Another typical dish is Etruscan rabbit, which is stewed in a pot with onions, garlic and olives. The local yellow salty bread is unusual. As for desserts, it is worth trying “gatto a la Aretine” - a sponge roll with chocolate custard. The main wine is Chianti Colli Aretini (Docg) and Cortona (Doc).

Introduction to Chianti Classico

Chianti cuisine draws on the culinary customs of two provinces, Florence and Siena, creating its own image based on them. A typical example is stracotto alla chiantigiana, a beef ham with beans, sage, rosemary, garlic and tomatoes. Chianti Docg is the most common wine in Italy. It is grown in six provinces (Arezzo, Florenia, Pisa, Pistoia, Prato, Siena). Chianti from traditional growing areas is designated as Chianti Classico Docg. This incomparable wine is characterized by the smell of violets and plums, has a fruity and harmonious taste and a sour aftertaste, emphasizing its freshness.

Route through the hills of the Chianti Colli Fiorentini wine estate

© turismo.intoscana.it

This area is considered a zone of “poor cuisine”, home to dishes such as trippa and lampredotto, ribollita and pappa al pomodoro, which are prepared with stale bread, as well as soups and pasta penne straccicate. Peposo alla fornachina, beef stewed in wine, is another famous local specialty, once a favorite dish of Brunelleschi himself. Cinto Toscano pork (Dop category under development) is valued no less than “Colline di Firenze” olive oil (Dop category under development). Wine Chianti Colli Fiorentini Docg is bright ruby ​​in color, transparent, in the “reserve” version it has an even more complex taste and aroma with hints of tobacco, baked cherries and plum jam.

Wine Road Chianti-Rufina and Pomino

© chiantirufina.com

IN local cuisine mushrooms occupy an important place. A rather unusual mushroom is popular here - early hygrophorus, which appears in February when the snow melts, delighting gourmets with its strong and wonderful taste. Local potatoes are prized: potato tortelli are considered a symbol of Mugello cuisine. Among the dishes that have almost gone out of use, it is worth remembering the soup from chin and “brodo di compenso” - a broth of vegetables, to which butter and a cheese rind are added for taste. Typical wines of the area are Pomino Doc and Chianti Rufina Docg.

Montespertoli Wine Route


Due to the exposure of the slopes, soil composition and climate, the Montespertoli region is ideal for growing grapes. In 1997, the Chianti Montespertoli subzone was created to highlight high quality local wines intended for long bottle aging.

The cuisine here is traditional for the Florentine region: ribollita with curly cabbage and cannellini beans, panzanella, pappa coli pomodoro and Florentine steak. Chianti Montespertoli Docg has a ruby ​​red color that becomes more garnet with age; the smell is wild berries and violet. The wine has an excellent structure, velvety and elegant taste.

Via Medici: Carmignano wines


Dates from Carmignano, dried on reed mats, have been considered a delicacy since ancient Rome. The shortbread and almond cookies “cantuccino di Prato” are famous, they go well with “vin santo”. Carmignano is the smallest Docg region in Italy, and the first Tuscan wine (along with Chianti) to be controlled and guaranteed by origin. Its taste is dry and harmonious, its smell is of violets and wildflowers.

Montalbano route


IGP Toscano olive oil, specified as Montalbano, is produced from Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, Pendolino, Rossellino and Piangente olive varieties. It Green colour with shades of yellow, taste – fruity, with notes of almond and artichoke. Among the sweets, we would like to mention “brigidini di Lamporecchio”, the finest cookies with anise flavor, “Berlingozzo” - a bagel that village gourmets used to put right around their necks, “cantuccini”, which go so well with a glass of “Vin Santo”. Chianti Montalbano, now the Docg area, was famous for its wine back in the 13th century! This wine was served at the table of the bishops of Pistoia.

Wine route "Colline Pisane"


The most famous delicacy of the province of Pisa is the white truffle, and the fruit is cherries from Lari. Table grapes from San Colombano are also known. It is worth noting several unusual meat dishes, for example, “testicciola alla pizana” - the boiled head of a young bull or lamb, but, of course, fish cuisine dominates here. A typical example is cuttlefish ink risotto. The DOP category for Pecorino cheese from Balze Volterrane is currently being finalized. The recently registered Chianti Colline Pisane Docg has become a new star among Tuscan wines.

Wine route of Vernaccia di San Gimignano


San Gimignano is best known for its medieval tower houses, which once belonged to local aristocrats, each of whom sought to outdo the others in height. Along the route you will come across entire fields of saffron (the DOP category is currently being issued for it).

Vernaccia di San Gimignano Docg is an ancient wine that even Dante mentioned in The Divine Comedy. At first it was awarded the Doc category, and in 1993 - Docg. This is a dry white wine of straw yellow color with a delicate aroma and a dry harmonious taste.

"Colli Senesi": in the hills around Siena



The most famous Siena dish is pici. “Panforte” and “Ricciarelli” are also quite famous in Italy; the Igp category for them is now being formalized. The first, by the way, was first mentioned in 1205: at that time it was made by no less than pharmacists, apparently due to the large number of ingredients in the recipe. It consisted of candied fruits, honey, caramelized sugar, almonds, flour and many spices. The ancestor of “ricciarelli” was marzipan; they also contain sugar and almonds. The sweet became popular in Siena in the 15th century. Chianti Colli Senesi Docg wine is made almost entirely from the Sangiovese variety. Ruby red wine has a characteristic violet aroma. The dessert Vin Santo dei Colli Senesi attracts more and more tourists interested in oenology to the region.

Wine route Nobile di Montepulciano


South-east of Siena, near the border with Umbria, is the town of Montepulciano, called the “pearl of the Cinquecento” for its amazing architecture. As elsewhere in the Siena region, people eat pici (a type of handmade spaghetti) with meat and mushroom sauces. Red wine Nobile di Montepulciano was first mentioned at the beginning of the 14th century. In 1980 it was awarded the Docg category. “Nobile” is slightly tannic, dry, characterized by a garnet color with orange hues that intensify as the wine ages. The smell is violet, more or less intense.

Orcia Valley Wine Route


Local cuisine: grilled meats, homemade pasta, soups, game sauces, Pecorino Terre di Siena cheese, lake fish. Orcia Doc Rosso - a universal wine, white Orcia Bianco goes well with light and fish dishes

Montalcino Wine Route


Buristo - salami, which almost disappeared from the shelves due to new sanitary and hygienic rules, has been made for centuries from pork blood, fat, lemon zest, raisins, pine nuts and spices. Salami “bastradro” is a dry-cured sausage made from the same minced meat as salsiccia. Brunello di Montalcino is the first Italian wine to receive the DOCG category. It is produced in the municipality of Montalcino exclusively from the Sangiovese variety, called Brunello in the local dialect. This classic wine goes well with red meat, roasts, game, and aged cheeses. You can drink it on its own, as the Italians say, “for meditation.”

Wine and food route
Monteregio di Massa Marittima


Maremma's cuisine is very varied and rich, including soups, tagliatelle with sauces, pork and wild boar salsiccia, and game dishes. The Monteregio di Massa Marittima Doc wine became known not very long ago. Doc has eight categories including red, reserve, pink, novello. All of them are made from Sangiovese and other red grape varieties. Montregio goes well with a variety of dishes.

Wine route “Etruscan Coast”


The route runs close to the sea coast, from Cecina to Piombino, partially covering the island of Elba. Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci are home to the most famous vineyards in the world, from which Sassicaia is made. Game plays an important role in the local cuisine, and the proximity to the sea means a large selection of fish dishes. On the Elbe, octopus with potatoes, Elbian mussels, stoccafiso alla riesche and other interesting recipes are popular. An unusual local specialty is strawberry jam, slightly sour, ideally combined with pecorino cheese.

Monteccuco Wine Route and Amiata Mountains

© tuscanyholidayrent.com

The route covers the slopes of Mount Amiata, which lies between the Maremma lowland and the Siena hills. There are many forests, vineyards and olive groves, medieval towns, castles and farms with ancient wine cellars and olive oil presses. In this non-tourist part of Tuscany, food producers do not shy away from innovation, as long as they do not violate centuries-old traditions. The area is famous for its game, mushrooms (especially porcini and king mushrooms), chestnuts from Amiata IGP, olive oil from Seggiano olives (DOP category under development).
Montecucco red wine acquired the Doc category not so long ago, in 1998. It is made from Sangiovese and other red grape varieties. VKontakte

[Chianti is a hilly area between Florence and Siena, Arezzo and the Pisa Hills, which has always been considered the “heart of Tuscany”: a series of magnificent landscapes with many vineyards , chestnut and oak groves, holm oak forests, medieval towns, romantic castles and charming rural houses. It is also the land where one of the best red wines in the world is made: Chianti. . Traveling through small towns

The Chianti region is an ideal base for trips through medieval towns, romantic vineyards and characteristic hilly landscapes. In every small town you can find wine cellars, castles and farms, and taste precious wine in one of the many enotecas. Its legendary origins and winemaking traditions have turned the region of Clante into a world-famous region.

For those traveling from Florence, the easiest way to get to the region of winegrowers is Impruneta, where there are many monuments, including the crenellated bell tower of the 13th century, the Basilica of St. Mary (Santa Maria, Basilica di Santa Maria) and the Treasury Museum (museo del Tesoro). In autumn, two international events take place here: the Wine Festival with a parade of allegorical chariots, as well as the Fair of St. Luke (San Luca).

Behind Florence, on the road to Siena, an obligatory part of the trip will be the ancient medieval town of Greve in Chianti, with an ancient peculiar triangular square, on the sides of which there are palaces, porticoes and covered galleries, converging at the Church of the Holy Cross (Santa -Croce, Chiesa di Santa Croce).
In September, the square hosts the largest Chianti wine exhibition. The castle of Montefioralle, a medieval fortified town, rises above the city.
Then on our way we come to Volpaia - a picturesque medieval settlement that arose around the castle, an ancient center of winemaking.
Nearby is Radda, which grew up around the church of St. Nicholas (San Nicolò, XIV century) and the majestic praetor's palace (c. 1415). We also recommend visiting the parish church of St. Justus (San Giusto in Salcio, San Giusto in Salcio), surrounded by green vineyards in a small hollow, and the parish church of St. Mary (Santa Maria Novella) with a characteristic Romanesque façade. Very close to Radda is another important point of the program: the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, where the Research Center for the History of Chianti is located (Centro studi storici chiantigiani).

Continuing towards the Chianti mountain pass, we will first see Gaiole, one of the most famous panoramas in Italy, and then many farms and castles, including San Leonino and Fonterutoli.

After Siena, of particular historical interest are Monteriggioni, built in the 13th century on a hilltop and surrounded by a massive fortified wall, and Castellina, a Siena outpost of Etruscan origin with a beautiful central square crossed by the medieval Via delle Volte ( via delle Volte).


Finally, we stop in the magnificent Poggibonsi, where in October there is a festival dedicated to the ancient technique of pressing the grapes of the hilly areas, and in Montespertoli to visit the annual Chianti exhibition.

Wine All Chianti wines are classified as DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita - “Denomination controlled and guaranteed by origin”), but all Chianti wines are different from each other, each having special characteristics due to its specific terroir and production method.

The mixture of grape varieties is always the same, only the percentage differs: Sangiovese - 75-90%, Canaiolo - 5-10%, and Malvasia del Chianti - 5-10%, here the ideal composition discovered in the 19th century by Baron Ricasoli, to which Trebbiano Toscano was later added. This tradition is so ingrained that Tuscan producers plant vines of different varieties together, immediately observing the required proportions required to make wine.

The cultivation of vines cultivated according to the Tuscan method is largely due to the soil, which consists mostly of marl, which, being porous and permeable, does not allow water to stagnate at the roots.
In the fall, after the harvest, you can still see a few clusters of grapes on the vine: this is a sign that the winemaker is practicing the “governor” method, that is, adding fresh must from raisined grapes to the fermenting wine to restart the fermentation process so that the sugar is completely processed into alcohol. In this way, a dry, stable wine is obtained.

After fermentation is complete, refining occurs: the wine remains in steel or concrete vats until March, and after bottling it is ready for sale.
A Chianti wine that has undergone many years of aging (and at least three months of refining in the bottle) may be entitled to bear the name “Riserva”, provided that at the time of consumption such wine has an alcohol content of at least 12% by volume, compared to 11.5° Chianti “Classico”.

Properties

Color: red, bright ruby, aroma: intense, with notes of fragrant violet, iris and vanilla, taste: balanced, dry, with a hint of vanilla and almond; with age it becomes velvety and soft. About 63 million bottles are produced annually.

At the table

Young Chianti and all simple DOCG wines are ideal wines to pair with any food. Old and Riserva wines are the best choice for meat, game and savory cheese dishes.
Bottles should be stored horizontally and wine should be served at room temperature. Among typical dishes Tuscan cuisine: "ribollita" - a mixture of boiled vegetables left over from yesterday's dinner, stewed again with the addition of stale bread and extra virgin olive oil ("extravergine").
Another classic local dish is traditional appetizers, such as crostini (croutons) with chicken liver (crostini di fegatini di pollo), “bruschetta” (baked baguette) with tomatoes (bruschetta con il pomodoro) and Siena sausage made from pork neck, known as Finocchiata.

We managed to come to the famous Chianti Valley in Italy not in the most better weather. You can never trust forecasts... This summer does not please Italy at all with hot and sunny weather, it should be noted. At first we were upset when we saw the sky in clouds. But gradually the blurry landscapes of Tuscany, blurred by high air humidity and periodic rain, simply enchanted us.

The views were like paintings by old masters! As if bright colors summers have slightly lost their brightness over time...

I deliberately did not improve the brightness in the photographs using Photoshop.

The first breaths of autumn can already be felt in Italy.

It arrives at the end of October, but already at the end of August we saw slightly yellowed trees.

Endless vineyards with juicy clusters of almost ripe fruits and olive groves on the rounded Tuscan hills - this is the Chianti Valley.

The ancient Etruscans grew grapes here.

Medieval castles and farmhouses, which often house cozy hotels; small wineries where you can try all of the above wines, as well as local sausages and cheeses - you can get stuck here for a long time.

The Chianti Valley produces the famous Classico Chianti wines from Chianti grapes. As well as Brunello di Montalcino and San Giovese wines from San Giovese grapes. The taste of wine varies significantly in different parts of the Chianti Valley.

The Chianti Valley is located within the cities of Prato and Pistoia, and covers an area of ​​about 90,000 hectares. We drove through the central part, called Chianti Classico. In addition to the central part, there are several other areas in the Chianti Valley:

Chianti Montalbano is located near the town of Montalbano north of Florence.
Rufina is located in the northeastern part of the valley.
Colline Fiorentini - south of the central part, in the Siena Hills.
Colline Aretina - east and southeast of the city of Arezzo.
Colline Pisane is west of Chianti Classico, near Pisa.
Coline Montespertoli is located along the hills of Montespertoli in the western part of the valley.

The symbol of Chianti is the black rooster, depicted on all wine bottles and numerous souvenirs. The rooster was elevated to the rank of a symbol in the 13th century, when Siena and Florence were actively sorting out relations over the borders of their territories. Then the black rooster of Florence crowed before that of Siena, bringing victory to his city. (How simply territorial disputes were sometimes resolved in those days...)

After such a “cockerel” victory, the cities of Castellina and Gaiole united into the Military League of Chianti Classico and placed the image of a cockerel on their flag. We drove through the territory of this former league by car.

Classic Tuscan landscapes with cypress trees have never left anyone indifferent.

We stopped literally at every kilometer to take a couple of shots.

The Chianti Valley has amazing, intoxicating fresh air.

In addition to its vineyards, the Chianti Valley is famous for its olive groves and the olive oil produced here.

Sometimes cities and towns suddenly appeared among the vineyards. The capital of Chianti Classico is the city of Greve. Without exception, all the grays in this area are called with the ending “in Chianti”, so most often when communicating in the valley this ending is omitted. seen from afar, it turned out to be quite large, some towers were visible in the central part. We will definitely visit someday!

First impressions are always the strongest. The Italian Chianti Valley in my memory will now forever remain in a shroud of rain.

The sun came out only once, showing what the valley looked like in bright light.

We will definitely come back here in sunny weather!

There are several places that you not only want to see, but also in which you definitely want to live, and not in a hotel, but definitely in a house, and if the house is old, the view from the window is wonderful. One of these places is Tuscany, more specifically – Chianti Valley. This region is strongly associated with Florence, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, beautiful cities, where the great architects of the Cinquecento and other eras worked, but there is another Tuscany - rural, farming, where the main characters are vines, olive trees and an amazing, incomparable landscape. Hills, valleys... and again hills and valleys, and so on ad infinitum, stretching into the azure sky.

So, no overnight stays in Florence, only the Chianti Valley and only apartments in a beautiful old house. We have already had to book houses in Provence through the http://airbnb.ru/ and http://www.homeaway.com/ systems. I talked about this experience in detail in my article Our home in Provence. But it was August, super high season, and there were a lot of problems, but we arrived in Tuscany at the beginning of April and, as our hostess said, we were the second people to stay with her this season. Therefore, this time we simply booked through www.booking.com without any problems. The only problem was best choice, and, fortunately, there was no mistake - the farm turned out to be simply magnificent http://www.agriturismosanleo.it/.

According to the owner, the oldest buildings were more than 1000 years old. Now everything has been restored and prepared to welcome tourists. All apartments have their own entrance, a terrace with a table and chairs in the fresh air, each has a kitchen with a stove, dishwasher and refrigerator. Inside there are one or more bedrooms, air conditioning throughout, but the decor retains the style and spirit of a farmhouse. There are only 9 apartments and they are designed for different numbers of guests (from 2 to 6).

There is a swimming pool, but it was not open yet at the beginning of April. There are olive trees all around, some of them very old.

The farm specializes in the production of olive oil. The breakfast room has a winter garden and old olive processing equipment. You can book a tour during which you will be shown the estate itself and the modern oil production (45 minutes, 10 euros per person). The hostess speaks English.

Breakfast is not included in the price, but you can order it separately. Sweet Italian will cost seven euros, but by paying another five euros, you will get prosciutto, cheese, boiled eggs or scrambled eggs, olives. Everything is of very high quality and there is a lot of everything, but the price of 12 euros for breakfast is somewhat annoying, considering that the room has a kitchen, and the nearest supermarket is 5 km away.

The Internet is only possible in the “under the door of the owner’s office” option, but maybe this is for the better.

On Saturdays there is a dinner at the farm. For 25 euros you are offered a variety of snacks, chicken from your own poultry house and red house wine. But we took appetizers, wine and Florentine steak (Bistecca alla fiorentina) - a huge piece of beef (1 kg) for two. It turned out to be 35 euros per person. Everything is very tasty and very homely.

Result: Everything is just wonderful! This is how you should live in Tuscany – closer to nature. The only thing you need to be prepared for is that there are very winding and narrow roads here, constant ups and downs. I would advise those who get motion sickness to come to the Chianti Valley with a supply of anti-sickness medications.

If you want to go on a trip to Europe organized by me, look at the current offers for joining groups on my website www.dmitrysokolov.ru

Dmitry Sokolov

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