Bombay India. Mumbai or still Bombay? Difficult choice

Mumbai (aka Bombay until 1995) is the largest Indian city with a population of more than 21 million people. This is the economic and cultural center of the country: the offices of the world's most famous corporations, fashionable hotels and haute couture shops are located here. Here, in the world-famous “Bollywood,” most Indian films and television programs are filmed. Here in search better life people flock from all over the country and from all over the world. And yet in Mumbai they are at peace! Mumbai is absolutely unlike the rest of India: both in its colonial architecture, which is breathtaking, and in the way representatives of different cultures and religions coexist organically here. When you get to Mumbai, you seem to be transported from dirty, noisy India to the Bombay of Kipling’s time and, despite the bustling life around you, it seems that time has stopped. We tell you how to get there, where to stay and what to do in this amazing city.

Guide contents:

Many airlines fly to Mumbai and you can often catch a ticket at a decent discount. However, there are no direct flights from Minsk, Kyiv, or Moscow. Arabic flies from Minsk with a transfer to Abu Dhabi Etihad. The cheapest way to fly from Moscow Aeroflot, however, here you will have a long layover in Delhi.

If you want to visit the Indian capital at the same time, then you can leave Delhi for Mumbai in two ways. Local low-cost airline IndiGo from $30 per ticket. The flight will take 2 hours. By train, which will take you 24 hours to Mumbai, for about the same cost in a 3rd class carriage. Train schedules, seat availability and ticket prices can be found on the Indian Railways website.

The most comfortable way to get from the airport to the city center is by taxi. In the terminal building there are Pre-paid Taxi counters with a fixed fare. A trip to the city center starts from $7.

In Mumbai, heavy street traffic often leads to hours-long traffic jams. Therefore, if you arrive during peak hours, it’s faster to get to the city center by train Mumbai Suburban Railway Network. The nearest Vile Parle station from the airport can be reached by taxi, rickshaw or bus: No. 312 (from Terminal 1) and No. 321 (from Terminal 2).

Comfortable BEST shuttles also go from the airport to the city center every 15-20 minutes. You can view the bus route and build it for yourself on the company’s website.

To find out everything you need to know about public transport Mumbai, download the app m-indicato. This is an irreplaceable thing in the city! With its help, you can build bus and train routes, find out transport schedules, and calculate the cost of taxi trips.

In Mumbai, rickshaws and bombilas are banned, only official taxis. True, during peak times and at night, a taxi driver may refuse to take you according to the meter, asking for a large amount. Bargain for a decline.

The most comfortable way to travel short distances in the city is by taxi. The first kilometer of the trip costs $0.25 according to the meter, then $0.15 per km. Don't forget to remind the driver to turn on the meter!

The Mumbai Suburban Railway Network has 4 lines and connects remote areas of the city. The fare depends on the distance and starts from $0.07 for a pair of stations. Tickets are purchased at ticket offices at stations. As a rule, trains have 1st class carriages (which differ in price, but not in comfort - from $0.70) and separate all-women carriages.

Bus service in Mumbai is very developed. As a rule, all inscriptions on city buses are in Hindi, including numbers. You can try to learn counting in Hindi, but it’s still extremely difficult to navigate bus traffic without Arabic numerals.

Surprisingly, it can be difficult to find accommodation in Mumbai: prices are 3 times higher than the national average (on Booking.com even higher), hotels are often overcrowded, many hotels accommodate only Indians, only men or only Indian men! Couchsurfers themselves do not recommend stopping through Couchserfing.com. In addition, web-based accommodation booking services are not that common in India, especially for budget accommodation.

You can find an inexpensive guesthouse by walking down the street Shahid Bhagat Singh Road (Colaba Causeway) where the famous Leopold Cafe. 4-5 star hotels are located nearby along the fashionable Marine Drive. Mid-price hotels are scattered between these two streets.

Salvation Army House or Salvation Army Home (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba) . Its 4-storey building is located just behind the famous Taj Mahal Palace. Salvation Army is a Protestant charity helping the homeless and disadvantaged. Now the building has been completely converted into a hostel: both dormitories and private rooms (AC and NonAC) are offered. Exactly this cheap place in Mumbai! The cost of a night with breakfast starts from $5 (per bed in a dormitory). There are always limited spaces available; pre-booking is only possible for groups. Salvation Army is also famous for its unique “paramilitary” atmosphere: barracks-style dorms, personnel in military uniform, an ascetic dining room, lack of hot water and thousands of travelers from all over the world! Minus: no bed linen and hot water. Pros: price, breakfast, location and atmosphere.

Hotel Volga II (Rustam Manzil, 1st floor, Above Leopord Cafe, NF Road, Colaba) located right next to Leopold Cafe (very small shabby sign, you need to climb the steps to the 2nd floor) - popular budget place. Private rooms (AC and NonAC) are the cheapest in Colaba. Prices for a NonAC room with shared bathroom start at $10. Cons: small rooms, no breakfast. Pros: price, location.

Apollo Hotel (Mathuradas Estate building, Mathuradas Estate Building, 43/45 Colaba Causeway, Colaba) . A small guesthouse occupies the 1st floor of a residential building. Rooms (AC and NonAC) starting at $10/night. Cons: small rooms, no breakfast. Pros: price, location.

Carlton Hotel 1* (Florence House, No.12, MereWeather Road, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel) - a tolerable hotel for the unpretentious. The small, no-frills rooms make up for the great location. Great for collapsing and falling asleep after a busy day in Mumbai. Rooms (AC and NonAC) from $12 per night.

Bentley Hotel Marine Drive 2* (Krishna Mahal, 3rd Floor, Marine Drive, Churchgate) - a decent hotel in a historical building located right on Marine Drive, within walking distance from Churchgate railway station, but a bit far from Colaba. But jogging along the morning Marine Drive is guaranteed! Modern rooms with breakfast from $45/night. Some rooms overlook the bay. Disadvantage: distance from Colaba. Plus: breakfast, Marine Drive.

Bentley's Hotel 3* (17, Oliver Road, Colaba) - a quality, no frills hotel with large AC rooms and private bathrooms. Wi-Fi is only at the reception, in India it is called "in public areas" Nightly rates from $45. Plus: location, breakfast, large rooms, renovated building.

Taj Mahal Palace 5* (Apollo Bunder, Colaba) . To fully feel the spirit of British Bombay, you should stay at the most famous 5-star hotel in the city, built in the nineteenth century. The Taj Mahal is a museum and a hotel rolled into one. Famous artists and musicians, politicians and members of royal families stayed here. The rooms are decorated in Indian style, some of them overlooking the Arabian Sea and India Gate. There are several restaurants, a SPA and a swimming pool on site. Nightly rates start at $215.

Mumbai is a city where poverty and wealth do not coexist so organically in the world. The business center of the city with the main attractions, hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs is located in the south in the Colaba area. In the north of Mumbai there are world-famous slum areas.

In the mid-90s, the city underwent a large-scale renaming. Therefore, get used to the fact that almost any attraction or institution has two names: the old, well-known one and the new, usually unpronounceable one. To this day, many establishments in Mumbai are called Bombay.

Rich Mumbai

Mumbai's nightlife is in full swing until 2 am. Afterwards, all establishments close, the city is strict about this. Bars are usually open until midnight. Most nightclubs prefer Indian music!

Aer (Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, 1/136, 34th Floor, Hotel Rooftop, Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli) - an artsy rooftop bar at the Four Seasons Hotel, offering stunning views of Mumbai. Expats prefer to gather here to admire the city over a cocktail and a pleasant conversation.

Trilogy (Hotel Sea Princess, 969, Juhu Tara Rd, Airport Area, Juhu) . The two-story club, beloved by Bombayites, is located near the Santracruz West airport. On Saturday, the entrance fee can reach $20.

Wink (Vivanta by Taj President, 90, Cuffe Parade) is one of the most glamorous bars in Mumbai. Located at the Vivanta by Taj President Hotel and open until midnight. Japanese cuisine and a pint of beer starting at $7.

China House (Grand Hyatt Mumbai Off Near Bandra Kurla Complex, Western Express Hwy, Vakola, Santacruz East) . Another popular club among locals is located in Hotel Grand Hyatt in Santracruz area. There is strict face control here. On Fridays the club is open until 3 am. Besides everything, it is famous for its excellent Chinese cuisine.

Tryst (Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel) - one of the most popular and expensive clubs among Mumbai residents. You will have to pay $15-30 for entry depending on the day of the week, with the most expensive on Saturday. Table rental will cost $450.

Hype (Atria, The Millenium Mall, R1, 4/F, Dr Annie Beasant Road, Worli) . If you want to plunge into the atmosphere of a Bollywood party, then you need to go to Hype. Indian movie stars often visit the club; remixes of famous Bollywood songs are played here and themed parties are held.

Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) . Along the street there are shops and stalls with everything a tourist needs: souvenirs, magnets, clothes, shoes, jewelry. True, the quality leaves much to be desired. If you want to buy really good Indian things, you should go to the local markets. Prices for small souvenirs here are lower than the national average.

Book deals on Mahatma Gandhi Road(in the Flora Fountain area). In India, books in English cost mere pennies. For example, a large collection of Kafka can be bought on sale for $4. The publisher prints the recommended price on the back of the books, but here you can and should bargain!

Chor Bazaar (Mutton St, Kumbharwada) . Mumbai's largest flea market is famous for its variety of antiques and antiques sold for pennies. Here you can find Victorian furniture and decorations, quirky musical instruments and vintage Bollywood posters. The last ones in the store with the huge Mini Market sign.

Mangaldas Market(Janjiker St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) - Mumbai's largest textile market with a 200-year history. The best silks and saris in the city are sold here. In a huge number of stores you can find traditional Indian clothing of excellent quality at a low price (overshirts, trousers, scarves, etc.).

Zaveri Bazaar (Sheikh Menon St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) - the jewelry mecca of Mumbai, where thousands of shops sell cheap jewelry made from yellow gold, beloved by Indians. For jewelry you need to go to Bhuleshwar Market (Marine Lines East, Panjarpole, Bhuleshwar) - this is a real women's paradise, where the brilliance of jewelry blinds the eyes! The latter is closed on Sundays.

To the spice market Lalbaug Market (Dinshaw Petit Rd, Lal Baug, Parel) It is worth going for the world famous turmeric, red and Kashmiri chili peppers. Good spices in factory packaging can also be purchased at any grocery store. For example, at the Sahakari Bhandar supermarket (Colaba Chamber, Ground Floor, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba) in Colaba.

Buying good tea in India is more of a myth than a reality. As often happens, excellent tea is immediately exported, and Indians drink what is left or powdered tea (as we do in tea bags). When brewed, it turns out very strong and completely tasteless. Of course, shops and markets sell loose leaf teas in beautiful packages especially for tourists. But they should not be confused with that very real Indian tea.

Map of Mumbai with attractions from the guide

Bargain like it's the last time in your life! Know that for the first time an enterprising Indian names a price at least 2 times higher than the real one. You need to bargain for everything except food, medicine and prices in government agencies (transport, post office, etc.). Retail prices are already printed on food and drink packaging by manufacturers.

Currency. In India, money is changed not by banks, but by special exchangers with the Currency Exchange sign. They charge a fee of 7% of the amount and do not set the most favorable exchange rate, so it is better to change on the black market (both from dollars to rupees and vice versa). In Mumbai, it is profitable to change money at Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road). Just walk along the market street and the money changers will approach you. You have to bargain for the course! Focus on the official exchange rate minus a dozen or two Indian cents. The larger the amount you change, the better the exchange rate you ask for.

Internet. Due to the 2008 terrorist attacks in Mumbai, strict security measures have been taken. First of all, this affects the availability of communications and the Internet. It may well happen that your roaming will stop working in the city. There is no Wi-Fi access in in public places, only in rare cafes and restaurants, as well as in hotels of medium and high price categories. At the same time, to connect to the network, you may be required to present a passport and access may be limited during the daytime.

If you need to always be in touch, you should connect a local SIM card. 1 GB mobile internet will cost about $4-5. This can be done at any street stand with icons of mobile operators. Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) and Bharucha Road have them at every step. To connect, you need a copy of your passport and visa, 2 3x4 photos and, optionally, a hotel payment receipt. Activation of a purchased SIM card may take from several hours to a couple of days. This process is quite complicated and consists in the fact that the mobile operator carefully checks your data and always calls the hotel to confirm that you are staying there. The SIM card can be used throughout the country and top up your account anywhere.

You are allowed into Indian airports only upon presentation of your air ticket. Make sure it is downloaded to your smartphone. If you arrived and left the airport, they will not let you back in, because... the ticket has been used. Therefore, first of all, try to change money or withdraw it from an ATM in the airport building; it will be almost impossible to do this on the street.

First aid kit. If you have never taken sedatives in your life, take stronger and more challenging ones with you to India. You can start accepting them at the airport. Don’t flatter yourself, this is India, you won’t get away with simple valerian here. Also make sure you have a full range of medications with you for digestive problems. Don't forget the hand sanitizer. If you have asthma or lung problems, take antihistamines, a thick face mask (can be bought at any pharmacy in Mumbai) and do not walk around the city in the morning when smog descends on the streets. The air in Mumbai is so polluted, especially in winter, that unaccustomed tourists often become allergic to it. If this happens, go straight to the nearest hospital, they will give you special strong antihistamines against air allergies.

What to take with you. Make several copies of your passport and visa, they are needed when checking into hotels and connecting a SIM card. India has its own concepts of purity and whiteness white, so it’s a good idea to bring bed linen that you don’t mind. If you are planning to travel around the country or go to Goa by train, take a light sleeping bag. If you are going north, the sleeping bag is thicker. Not all the streets of Mumbai are illuminated in the evening, and in Goa there is no street lighting at all, so a flashlight is a good idea. It is better to bring hygiene items with you; it can be extremely difficult to find them in India. Toilet paper Indians don’t use it; they sell it to tourists at a price of around $1 per roll.

How to become a disco dancer? In "Bollywood" they organize boring and insanely expensive excursions, where, at best, they will show one small filming pavilion. Do you want to see Bollywood from the inside? Go to the daytime Leopold Cafe (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Near Colaba Police Station, Colaba Causeway) or Salvation Army House (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba), where Bollywood casting managers hang out and gather Western youth for extras. A European face in an Indian film is prestigious! The filming process takes the whole day, but you will plunge into the world of Indian cinematography and earn about $7 for filming.

Text - Ekaterina Borisova, photo - KIDKUTSMEDIA, marina.shakleina,

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Updated 06/18/2019

Mumbai is an amazing Indian city. Previously, until 1995, the city was called Bombay, and although it changed its name and was renamed, the local population continues to call it that way. Although Mumbai is not the capital of India, it is the most populous city in the country.

Mumbai is located on the coast of the Arabian Sea, is the capital of the state of Maharashta and is the largest Indian port, commercial and industrial center of the country.

The population of the city of Mumbai in 2011 was more than 3 million inhabitants.

If we talk about the origin of the city’s names, it is believed that the old name comes from the word that the Portuguese used to call this area (which translated meant “good bay”). And the name “Mumbai”, according to legend, comes from the name of the Hindu goddess Mumbadeva.

Attractions. What to see in Mumbai?

City - interesting combination two cultures: European and Asian. When visiting Bombay, you should pay attention to Elephant Island, the Prince of Wales Museum and buildings Supreme Court, University and Victoria Station (rather, it is even an architectural monument, and not just a station).

In general, a lot of conditions have been created here for tourists: a large number hotels, restaurants and all kinds of shops and local shops. The city is very popular among tourists due to its beautiful places and recreational opportunities.

Pay attention to Chor Bazaar - an interesting flea market where you can find many original cheap items. And there is also an area that is unusual for us, called Dhobi Ghat. There is a lot of washing going on there - you can see a huge number of baths in which women do their laundry every day (however, they don’t like tourists here, it’s better to watch from afar).

In Mumbai you can find exhibitions, cinemas, art galleries. It is noteworthy that there is a symphony orchestra there (the only one in India!). By the way, a building is currently under construction there, which should become the second tallest in the world - the India Tower, and the authorities plan to complete the construction by 2016.

Hello! I am Gleb Kuznetsov, I am 26 years old, today I want to talk about one of my days spent in the Indian city of Mumbai, which is however known throughout the world under its former name Bombay, thanks to the wonderful book “Shantaram”. We visited those very bombay slums ah, where the action of “Shantaram” takes place, and around. Just this evening I arrived by train from mountain resort Pune, famous for the Osho Ashram, did not have time to comprehend this phenomenon - Bombay. Therefore, the first look out the window upon waking up, and a shiver runs down your spine. Having seen this, a person cannot remain indifferent, and a photographer cannot sit idly by. It’s half past six, it’s quickly getting light, but I do the prescribed exercise, take a photo for memory and run into the city.

People sleep everywhere, they sleep in families, side by side, in deep sleep, women, children, old people. It is obvious that they are not tramps or beggars, since there are bags with spare clothes and some belongings nearby. I understand that I am walking among those whom I read about in children’s books about India, among the untouchables, engaged in the dirtiest and lowest paid work and who have never had housing. I take hundreds of photographs, but photographing people sleeping on the streets of Bombay is like photographing clerks running through the streets of New York - there are countless of them.

The night is very warm and people don’t even need blankets, and cardboard is enough for bedding. But I notice that among the homeless men sleep alone, usually near the doors of the shops. Later, my guesses would be confirmed - these were their employees or even owners who chose to spend the night at their workplace on the way home to the suburbs. But the room is stuffy - and the street is like a shared bedroom.

By half past six the city wakes up. Servants and taxi drivers appear on the streets, and those sleeping on the sidewalks begin their morning toilet. I see that they are not tramps at all in our understanding, and after half an hour I would not distinguish them from most Indians. People from the sidewalks comb their hair and wash themselves and brush their teeth, drawing water from special barrels, and cook breakfast here over the fires.
All of them have developed unquestioning obedience - they allow themselves to be photographed in this unsightly form, and do not interfere with the filming of sleeping members of their families. They just smile timidly and often thank you for the shot, but don’t even ask to see it.
Meanwhile, the morning is in full swing, but I went too far towards the “Central Railway Terminal”, running from one group of sleeping people to another, like Mashenka ran from mushroom to mushroom until she ended up in a den. Thus, the idea of ​​having breakfast at the table with a fork in hand fails, since there is not a single safe establishment in this area. But there is an opportunity to try street cuisine. Unlike most taverns for locals, street food in India is both tasty and safe (at least I, having traveled this country from Trivandrum in the south to Varanasi in the north and tried all the local pies and gingerbreads, have never had any problems). Well, a few red pepper puff pastry potato pies and a glass of sweet milk tea for $2 and I'm ready to hit the road. Oh, I completely forgot to tell you that any minute now the night bus from Goa and in it my friends are the Chistozvonov couple. Sasha and Ira were spending their vacation on the beach and, for the sake of the thrill, decided to sacrifice two nights on the bus, but wander with me through the Bombay slums. This is our mission for today, and to facilitate it, I agreed in the evening with the taxi driver Fazil on a tour of the slums and brothels and communities of transvestite hijdras.
I get to Borivali by local train faster than expected, and while my friends are still approaching the city, I go into the entrance of a concrete high-rise building near the station that I like. The wealthy middle class lives in such houses in Bombay, and, as far as I could see, all the suburbs are built up with them, while the city center is occupied by slums and a patch of the World Trade Center with the local Latin Quarter.
The entrance to the entrance is blocked by a crazy man, Faisal. He forbids taking photographs of himself because he is afraid of death from the camera. But Faisal is not a coward - he protects his home from evil. He has an amulet on his bare chest, and the ghost will not be able to pass by him. I still made my way in and, not wanting to frighten or offend the crazy person, I focused on photographs of the situation in the entrance.




But here comes San Sanych! And without delay I plunge him and Ira into the world of real Bombay!
Guide Fazil meets us in Borivali. However, he is afraid of getting on the front pages of world publications as a person involved in exposing the Bombay “dark kingdom”, so he avoids a group photo. We manage to persuade him to capture it on film much later, when all the tests are already behind us. In the meantime, he takes us to the slum area in his forty-year-old Fiat, which is parked on the sidewalk in the photo below.
The city center, called the World Trade Center, is virtually indistinguishable from the slums. There is neither a stone wall nor a wall of machine gunners - these two are completely different worlds exist side by side and, unlike major cities Latin America, do not show hostility in any way.
Bombay slums are closed areas surrounded by wide streets. Inside there is an unimaginable tangle of narrow alleys. Basically, slums are divided into Hindu and Muslim, and also into slums where there are houses, albeit made of sheet iron, and those with only plastic sheds. Fazil is a Muslim and a member of the middle class, so he takes us to those slums that are close to his spirit. We don’t mind at all, since the Muslim slums where the Bombay middle class lives are, as they say, classics of the genre.
The outer perimeter of the slums is occupied by shops and workshops, in the barracks closest to them there are always warehouses, and further inland there are residential “neighbourhoods”.



After walking around the outer perimeter, Fazil asks us: “Maybe to the India Gate?” But we stubbornly demand to the very depths, and with fear for my camera and our mental health, he leads us into the slums. By the way, the Bombay slums are universally recognized as the safest place in India. They are completely under the control of local communities; no outsider will penetrate here, and if they do, they will not leave if local laws are violated. For tourists, access to the slums is completely free, but... one of the basic rules in the slums: “Do not take photographs!” Muslims are categorically against cameras. However, how would I tell this story? All along the way, you first have to bow to the models, politely ask how they are, and then timidly ask if they can take one picture. Men and children are always happy about this, completely dispelling established ideas. Women, especially old ones, on the contrary, react incontinently: often not understanding that I am only asking permission, they begin to call their husbands - they run out angry and it takes a lot of time to explain. In short, step by step deeper into the slums.
After a tangle of back streets with sewage flowing and rats and children running interspersed, we reach the heart of this part of Bombay - the courtyards. They are relatively clean and spacious and in spirit resemble a kitchen in a communal apartment. Here they wash and dry clothes, play, tinker with motorcycles, in a word, people’s entire lives are focused on these pieces of “land” in the middle of an ocean of nightmare. Here the air is like air!

Fazil tells us that in Bombay they are outraged by the myth that poor people live in slums. According to the guide, men earn up to $500 a month here, and the housing itself in the slum can cost several tens of thousands of dollars, since it is close to the center and, so to speak, is located in a comfortable and safe area. As for general poverty, its main reason is the large number of children in families and unemployed women. And even if our Fazil doubled the earnings of the Bombay slum people, Sasha, Ira and I simultaneously came to the conclusion that these people were not so much hopelessly poor as they had become irrevocably accustomed to the surrounding nightmare situation and were not able to adequately evaluate it.
But okay, the photo is a souvenir, and we gradually leave the slums, because after several hours of wandering here, the stench makes your throat feel nauseous and you want only one thing: to take a full lungful of air without fear!


Here is the main sports arena of the Bombay slums! No comments are needed - we are skipping towards Fazil’s minibus!
And we ask for fresh air. The slums united us! But the beach is also not exactly a beach, but a combination of a fishing dump and massive deposits of Indians. Sasha and Ira desperately ask Fazil to take them at least for half an hour “to a quiet place,” but he just laughs: “Where can I find a free place in Bombay?”
But we walk through the city center and find it quite civilized and nice: the university and administrative buildings of English construction, wide streets, wonderful old Fiats...

But after catching our breath, it would be nice to have lunch. We go to a vegetarian restaurant. For four dollars we order a classic dish of rice and vegetables, and we get a palm leaf like this, with a mountain of delicious food. One question: “How is it?”
Like this!
I don’t dare show you what we did with this food with our stubby fingers. And there is no time, since Fazil is already driving us to the Congress Hall area - Bombay's red light district. So the first charming lady shyly attracts visitors to her porch.
Prostitutes in shabby outfits mill about along the street, but at the sight of a camera they scatter to the corners - they are afraid of fame. Fazil says that young ladies come to work from Nepal and Bangladesh, and for half an hour of work they ask for $3.
But be careful! India is famous for its LGBT community called Hijdras. The danger is not so much in confusing such a representative of the sexual minority with a natural lady, but in not pleasing her! Hijdras are the oldest and most authoritative caste of Indian society. They have the privilege of cursing people, and paying off such a curse will cost a lot! My dear Sasha was seriously afraid of the hijdras and hid in the car, leaving me alone with them, but I, having talked enough, came to an opinion about them as sweet creatures (don’t get me wrong).
The price for half an hour with a hijdra is the same as with a prostitute, and the money will go into the same pocket. At the back entrances to cheap brothels sit “cats” - local pimps. In addition to their strict protective function, they also supervise children while mothers are busy serving clients.
Brothels merge with slums, and, in the end, you can never distinguish a respectable Muslim from a Bombay tycoon.

But is it enough for one day? Unnoticed, 6 o’clock in the evening came, and it was time for Sasha and Ira to go to the bus station and back to a cozy hotel in Goa. They categorically reject all my offers to stay for a day and only ask to accompany them to the bus. We pay Fazil - a six-hour all-inclusive excursion cost us 30 US dollars. But in Bombay there is no need to look for miracles - at the station of the ultra-modern city train we find ourselves in the epicenter of a gypsy camp. Under no circumstances should you give money, because at the sight of banknotes these gypsies go berserk and start tearing you apart (I had this experience in the south of India, in Madurai).
By the way, there are traces of Bollywood influence here. The whole city is plastered with such posters, and any European who wants can act as an extra and will receive 10 dollars for it. But Sasha and Ira don’t want to act as extras, they want to go to a hotel!
First class on the train is cozy and cool. We have been driving for about 40 minutes, and Sasha and I are cheerfully drinking a bottle of Indian rum, so to speak, for disinfection.
The usual welcoming crowd at the bus station!
Wonderful gypsies sit by the bus, but all this, although it looks scary from the outside, does not carry any aggression - so you walk in the middle of such bedlam and, of course, you don’t feel comfortable, but it doesn’t cause much tension either.
But the sleeping places in Indian buses are still not for Russian people. But okay, I escorted Ira and Sasha back to Bombay the same way.
It’s sunset on the beach and crowds of Indians eat and drink after work, but they’re afraid to swim because they don’t know how to swim and they believe that an evil miracle Yudo lives in the ocean. I didn’t go swimming, because I didn’t want to return to the hotel naked later.
Well, the end of this extraordinary day at the computer. Photos must be selected as soon as possible, because new ones will be added tomorrow. While doing this I fall asleep without even noticing it.

Every person, hearing the words: “Mumbai”, “India”, immediately imagines flexible, dancing women in colorful clothes. He will hear melodic songs that sink into the soul, and will smile, remembering romantic films about love. They are associated with something distant and fabulous, almost inaccessible.

But visiting the country is easier than ever. And then everything that was known only from movie stills will be within walking distance. Before traveling, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the information, features, customs and morals. In this case, the trip will take place without unexpected surprises.

Mumbai is sometimes referred to as the gateway of India. Let's figure out why this happens.

A large metropolis, very conveniently located. Through it they get to any point in the state. In the past it was called Bombay. Only in 1995 the policy was returned to its previous name, which had existed before the Portuguese settled it. Mumbai means "mother".

The capital of an Indian state is connected to populated areas by rail and highways. You can get there not only by air, but also by other means. That is why it is called the “gateway” of the country.

Geographical location

Situated on the shores of the Arabian Sea, it stretches along the coast for about 150 km. Some are located on the islands of Solsett and Bombay.

Built on a hilly area. His most high point above sea level – 450 meters.

Climate and weather

The climate is tropical. This means that the area experiences wet and dry seasons.

The rains begin in March and continue until October. It's humid and hot here. The peak of the rainy season is from July to September. It seems that the downpours will flood the streets. But this doesn't happen. The air warms up to +30 degrees and above.

From November to February there is no precipitation. Two months - January and February - are called the coldest. The air temperature does not rise above 10 degrees Celsius.

Many believe this is the best time to visit. The weather does not interfere with sightseeing and long walks.

Story

Archaeological finds prove that the settlement existed as early as the 2nd century BC. e. It is believed that at that time it occupied 7 islands. Tourists travel to Elephant Island to personally explore the stone caves and ruins of religious buildings preserved from that era.

At the beginning of the 16th century, the Portuguese invaded and occupied the city. This is associated with a change in religious beliefs. Many Hindus converted to the Catholic faith. It was then that Mumbai began to be called Bombay.

In the mid-17th century, the area on which Bombay was located was given as a dowry to the English king. He, in turn, transferred the islands to a trading company. Since then, the harbor began to be used for trade purposes.

The first governor was an Englishman. He took office at the end of the 17th century. But by the beginning of the 19th century, the British found the location of the policy on the islands inconvenient. Work has begun to unite the islands into one point. A railway line was built. This was a necessity - there was a cotton factory in Bombay, and cotton had to be exported from the country.

By the beginning of the 20th century, Bombay had become a major city with a population of one million. Communication routes and large factories contributed to the fact that people from different places began to flock here in search of work.

Now it is the cultural, commercial and economic capital of India.

The most populous metropolis in India, but also the most major port in the west of the country. The population increased by as much as 50,000 in 15 years. This happened in the mid-17th century, with the arrival of the Portuguese.

In the late 19th century, Bombay was the world's cotton trading center. It houses all the major film studios, including Bollywood.

UNESCO awarded the city with honorary awards for the preservation of historical and cultural sites.

Population

People of different nationalities come here. This is due to the lack of jobs in the regions. The largest economic capital is inhabited by people of different religions and cultures.

Number

The population is increasing from year to year. According to the latest data, more than 17 million live here. It is the most densely populated place in the world. The population density is about 22 thousand per square kilometer.

There are more men, this is due to the fact that it is the representatives of the stronger sex who go to work from villages and villages to large industrial centers.

Official language

The official language is Marathi, but the majority of the population speaks Hindi. Residents also speak English; almost all residents know it.

Take an English phrasebook with you when traveling, then you won’t have any problems with communication.

National composition

The main part are Indians. But since the population is constantly growing, you can meet people of the most unexpected nationalities. In addition, people get married, give birth to children, and sometimes they themselves cannot answer what their nationality is.

Religion

More than half of the residents profess Hinduism. But with the arrival of the Portuguese, Christianity spread. So you will also be able to meet Catholics. In addition, followers of Buddhism, Judaism and Islam live and the oldest mosque is located.

Economy

Largest center economy. Locality is important for the entire country. This policy alone annually contributes more than 30% of income to the state treasury.

The industrial industry is well developed. Oil is being processed and diamond and gold deposits are being developed. A nuclear power plant has been equipped. Financial institutions are concentrated, including the Reserve Bank of India.

Along with rich, prosperous areas, slums live their own lives. They are inhabited by the poor, artisans, and those who came here for a better life.

It is clearly visible how the poor strata of the population are trying to survive.

World-famous countries cooperate with Mumbai.

City government

Mumbai is the capital of Maharashtra, a state of India, which in turn is divided into two parts: Suburb and City. They are also part of the state as separate units.

All power is in the hands of the City Council. The head of the Council is considered to be the mayor. But this is a formality. It doesn't solve anything. The Government of Maharashtra appoints the main responsible person - the commission agent. He rules the polis, the Council is subordinate to him. In each district (and there are 21 districts in total) an assistant commissioner is appointed who monitors order and reports on the state of affairs to management.

Social and cultural life

The city leads a rich cultural life, social programs are being developed that are designed to preserve national heritage. People of different cultures and religions come. They all live peacefully in the same territory.

This is a metropolis that hosts festivals and celebrations of ethnic origin. All nationalities participate in them and respect the cultural traditions of another nation.

Lots of cinemas, locals love to visit them. In addition to films, it is famous for its exhibitions and galleries.

The public library was founded at the beginning of the 19th century. This is one of the oldest institutions in the cultural capital. It stores not only books and periodicals of past years, but also manuscripts of historical value.

Private and public schools are open. The poor sections of the population study in public educational institutions. The authorities are monitoring this. Children are required to attend classes and child labor is not encouraged.

Awarded by UNESCO for the preservation of national monuments in almost their original form.

Sights and architecture

The architecture is mainly represented by buildings of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At this time, the British dominated, and they built the policy. Two styles predominate: neo-Gothic and neoclassical. They were characteristic of England. There are buildings built in purely Indian traditions of the 16th-18th centuries.

The center is an English fort, around which Bombay was formed. This is a spacious, green area. The Fort houses government offices, banks, shops, offices, educational establishments. The main attractions are concentrated in the Old Fort.

The areas following the Fort are densely built-up streets. Poor people and visitors settle in them. There are buildings of different styles, there are even houses made of cardboard. The lower floors of residential buildings are occupied by benches. There are also many warehouses and docks.

Along with rich and prosperous neighborhoods, there are poor, narrow streets. Tourists are attracted by the fact that artisans work on the street. Travelers come to take a look at the process. There is also a cheerful, festive atmosphere here. Family events are celebrated with neighbors, singing and dancing. You can get to one of these holidays while walking.

Bollywood

Cinema is a favorite entertainment and spectacle. Bombay was famous for its films, and Mumbai has the same reputation.

The first film was released back in 1986; Polis is called the birthplace of Indian cinema. Bollywood is the largest film industry. It was created in the image of Hollywood. Bollywood recently celebrated its centenary. Films shot here are loved in many parts of the world. Singing plays an important role in films. With the help of music, the characters convey the feelings and emotions that surround them during the action.

In 2011, Bollywood was opened to the public. This immediately increased the influx of travelers. Many people strive to come here and see how the filming of their favorite childhood films takes place. Viewers can even take part in the filming.

Excursions are organized to Bollywood, or you can visit it on your own.

Traditional cuisine

No one will remain hungry. There are public catering stations everywhere, and food vendors walk right down the street. The best restaurants are located in the Old Fort.

The national cuisine is special, a combination of Asian and European cuisine. The coexistence of different nations and religions in one place could not but affect food.

They don't cook with pork or beef here. Animals are sacred, you will have to make do with poultry or lamb.

A lot of different fruits. Bananas and juices are sold very cheaply at every step.

Among the local dishes, be sure to try:

• crispy masala papad;
• bhelpuri (fried porridge of rice, noodles, corn with spices);
• chicken with curry sauce;
• pani puri (rice and potato baked goods).
• Vegetarians will certainly appreciate the special sandwich – vada pav.

Shopping

People come here for silk, jewelry, spices, incense and clothing. Products can be purchased at the following markets:

• ChorBazaar;
• ZaveriBazaar;

On Elephant Island there are shops selling cheap souvenirs. There are also shops open in all areas.

Among the shopping centers there are:

• Central Cottage Industries Emporium;

Products of all types are offered affordable prices. Feedback from tourists suggests that you should bargain. We manage to reduce the price by almost half. It is recommended to go shopping in the morning. There is a discount for first buyers. In addition, goods are not always cheaper on the market. Before buying, find out how much the item costs in the store.

Entertainment

Except excursion programs and shopping, there are other entertainments.

Lovers active rest go to Shivaji Park. Bicycles, roller skates, and scooters are available for rental. Picnic areas are provided. There is a famous aquarium nearby. Here you can swim with seals and dolphins.

For lovers beach holiday you need to visit the coast. Tourists are offered a parachute flight, rental of water equipment, or just swimming.

For new knowledge, head to the Nehru Center and Planetarium. These places are great for families with children.

The night metropolis is beautiful. It is full of discos and clubs for every taste. You don't have to look for clubs. Bright shop windows are visible throughout the area. Clubs and dance floors are open until the morning. Some nightlife establishments offer visitors to while away the evening playing roulette.

Transport

There is an excellent metro here. I'll like it Russian tourists, since the local metro is similar to the Moscow one. Lines are laid throughout the policy, and stops are equipped near the main attractions.

You can also use taxi and rickshaw services. Prices are moderate and depend on where the passenger needs to go.

Taxi drivers have a reputation as scammers. You should be careful and vigilant. The same goes for rickshaws. In addition, rickshaws are only available on the outskirts; their activity is prohibited in the center.

The ferry also works. You can swim to some of the sights. For example, to Elephant Island.

Best time to visit

To decide when to visit, think about why you are going there. Long walks around places of interest It is best to do it from late autumn to early spring. Then the heat comes, you won’t be able to walk on the asphalt streets for a long time. But this is an excellent option for visiting museum sites and beaches.

During the rainy season, the humidity is high, it is stuffy, and it rains. If you don’t plan to walk around the metropolis, dedicate your trip to entertainment in closed establishments: visit the oceanarium, shopping centers, religious objects.

Russian tourists will be more comfortable in the winter months. Cool weather will allow you to explore historical monuments and enjoy the national beauties.

Vacation prices

This direction has recently become very popular. Exotic, vibrant, with unique traditions and rich culture attracts more and more tourists. Despite its popularity, the holiday will become budget-friendly if you take into account some features when traveling.

Mumbai is the most populated city India: the concept of a city includes the so-called. Municipal Corporation of Mumbai, which includes two districts of the state of Maharashtra: “Mumbai” itself (157 km², 3,145,966 inhabitants in 2011), as well as the district “Mumbai (suburban)” (446 km², 9,332,481 inhabitants). in 2011), total 603 km², 12,478,447 inhabitants. in 2011. Together with satellite cities, it forms the fifth largest urban agglomeration in the world with a population of 21.3 million people [ unreputable source?] .

Located at an altitude of 10 meters above sea level. The population density is 21,665 people per km² (the city ranks first in the world in terms of density), about 1/2 of the population is Marathi, about 1/4 is Gujaratis. The city proper occupies the island of Bombay (German) Russian (English) Isle of Bombay) And southern part the Solsett Islands, which are connected by bridges and causeways.

Mumbai is a major hub for international transport routes. The city has a deep natural harbour, being the largest port in western India. About half of India's passenger traffic passes through the passenger terminal. Mumbai, one of the most important economic and cultural centers in India, is a city of great contrasts, where luxury and wealth coexist with poverty. Modern neighborhoods are adjacent to slums - the northern areas of the city, which are considered breeding grounds for various diseases.

Compared to other cities in India, Mumbai has a relatively high standard of living and high business activity. Employment opportunities attract labor to the city from across South Asia, apart from India itself.

Origin of the city's name

The name of the city of Mumbai comes from "Mumb", which is the name of a local Hindu goddess. Mumba Devi And ai, which means "mother" in Marathi. There is an opinion that the name “Bombain”, which was given to the city in the 16th century by the Portuguese, supposedly comes from words meaning “good bay”, but modern research refutes this. Under British rule the word was anglicized into Bombay. The name was officially changed to Mumbai in 1995. The former name is still used by city residents and famous institutions, and is also popular in the West.

Geographical location

Mumbai is located at the mouth of the Ulhas River. Ulhas), occupying the islands of Bombay, Solsett and the adjacent coast. Mumbai is located at altitudes ranging from 10 to 15 meters above sea level. Northern part Mumbai is hilly, with the city's highest point being 450 meters above sea level. The area of ​​the city is 603.4 km².

There are lakes within the city boundaries: Tulsi (eng. Tulsi), Vihar (English) Vihar), Powai (English) Powai). The first two, located in Borivali National Park. Borivali), supply part of the city drinking water. There are three rivers in Mumbai that originate in the national park. There are mangrove swamps within the city boundaries. Coastline The city is cut by numerous streams and bays. The soil in the city is mostly sandy due to the proximity of the sea; in the suburbs it is alluvial and clayey. The rocks are classified as black basalts. Mumbai is located in a seismic zone.

Climatic conditions

Sea coast within the city

The city is located in the subequatorial zone. There are two distinct seasons: wet and dry. The rainy season lasts from June to November, with particularly intense monsoon rains occurring from June to September, causing high humidity in the city. The average temperature is about 30 °C, temperature fluctuations from 11 °C to 38 °C. The amount of annual precipitation is 2200 mm. There was especially a lot of precipitation in 1954 - 3451.6 mm. The dry season from December to May is characterized by moderate humidity. Due to the predominance of cold north wind January and February are the coldest months; the absolute minimum in the city was +10 degrees.

Demography

Traffic in Mumbai

Mumbai's population is more than 17 million people. The ratio of women to men is 811 to 1000. The larger number of men is explained by the influx of the male population from rural areas to the city to earn money. The literacy rate is 77%, which is higher than the national average. Among men, literacy is 82%, among women - 71.6%. By religion, people professing Hinduism make up 68% of the city's population, Muslims - 17%, Christians - 4% and Buddhists - 4%. In addition, followers of Zoroastrianism, Jainism, Sikhism and Judaism live in the city, and there are atheists. Mumbai uses the spoken form of Hindi (a mixture of Hindi, Marathi and English), but the official language of Maharashtra is Marathi. English is popular among the working intelligentsia. In the city you can also hear speech in Bengali, Tamil, Punjabi, Nepali, Marathi, Telugu, Urdu, Gujarati.

City `s history

City map. 1888

In the second half of the 19th century, in Bombay, for the first time in India, national industry and a large national commercial and industrial bourgeoisie began to emerge and form. At the same time, the city becomes the center of the Indian labor movement. Mass protests by workers and sailors took place repeatedly. The revolt of naval sailors in February 1946 in Bombay led to India gaining independence ().

Economic potential

Mumbai is one of the country's largest economic centers. About 10% of all the country's workers work in this city. The city provides 33% of income tax revenues and 60% of all customs duties. Mumbai accounts for 40% of India's total foreign trade. The city has developed industries: cotton, oil refining, chemical, mechanical engineering. Electricity is provided by hydroelectric power plants located at the foot of the Western Ghats and thermal power plants on Trombay Island. There is a nuclear power plant. Mumbai is home to many financial institutions: Bombay Stock Exchange, Reserve Bank of India, National Stock Exchange, Mint. Large companies such as Tata Group, Godrej Godrej) and many others have their headquarters in the city.

The business center is located in the southern part of Mumbai. Apart from Indian financial institutions, the business center is home to various foreign organizations. Until the 1980s, Mumbai's economy was largely dependent on the textile industry and maritime trade. The port's cargo turnover was 25 million tons. 60% of all imports passed through the cargo port.

After the 80s of the 20th century, other, more progressive and highly skilled industries began to develop in Mumbai, such as: diamond development and polishing, high information technology, healthcare.

It is worth noting that employees working for the state make up a significant part of the city’s total workforce, but at the same time there are many residents engaged in low- and medium-skilled labor: taxi drivers, shopkeepers, mechanics, repairmen and others.

Mumbai is the main center of the entertainment industry. Most of India's television and satellite networks are located in this city. Center of the Indian Film Industry, so-called. Bollywood (English) Bollywood), is located in Mumbai, where there are other, lesser-known film studios.

City government

Mumbai is the capital of the state. It consists of two distinct districts - City and Suburbs, which also form two districts in the state of Maharashtra.

The city is governed by a municipal council, headed by a mayor, who performs purely nominal functions. The real executive power is concentrated in the hands of a commissioner appointed by the state government.

The municipal city council is responsible for the development of the city. Mumbai is divided into 23 city districts, headed by an assistant commissioner.

Crime among the population

Crime in Mumbai is moderate by Indian standards. In Mumbai, 27,577 cases were registered in 2004 (in 2001 - 30,991 cases), there was an 11% decrease in crime during this time. The city's main prison is Arthur Road. On November 27, 2008, riots and a chain of explosions began in Mumbai. There are victims.

Social and cultural life of the city, architecture, attractions

Mumbai is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in India. European and Asian cultural traditions coexist in the city. There are many holidays and festivals of different ethnic groups and religions. The city's population takes part in them widely, often regardless of religion.

Mumbai has its own roadside fast food chain: Vada Pavs and Bhelpuri.

The city has many fans of Chinese and South Indian cuisine. The city is a mixture of international and Indian tastes in music, food, art.

In 2004, Mumbai received three awards from UNESCO for its conservation national traditions. Mumbai is the birthplace of Indian cinema. The first film was released in 1896. The city has a large number of cinemas, including the largest in Asia - the IMAX cinema, which shows new films from Bollywood and Hollywood.

In addition to cinema, many exhibitions are held in the city, and many plays are staged in theaters. The city has art galleries: Jehangir Gallery, National Gallery contemporary art, Prince of Wales Museum, and others.

Mumbai is home to India's only permanent symphony orchestra (The Bombay Chamber Orchestra).

The oldest public library in the city is the Asiatic Society Library, built in 1833.

Mumbai has six sister cities (this is the maximum allowed by the Indian government):

Bombay was actively built up during the period of British rule, in the second half of the 19th and 20th centuries. Its layout and development retain the features of colonial rule and social inequality. There are many buildings in the spirit of English neoclassical and neo-Gothic, as well as imitations of Indian architecture of the 18th century (Gateway to India, Prince of Wales Museum). The city has many buildings in European and American styles. In the old business district there is armenian church St. Peter (XVIII century)

The center of the city around which Bombay (Mumbai) was formed is a former English fortress, a fort located in the southeastern part of Bombay Island. The area has a proper layout, wide streets, a lot of greenery. On the territory of the fort there are government offices, banks, shops, a university (), and offices of commercial and industrial companies.

To the north of the fort there are haphazardly built-up residential areas (the lower floors of the houses are occupied by shops and workshops) of the former “Black City”. Warehouses, docks, and piers stretch along the eastern shore of the island; branches of both fit here railways, connecting Bombay with the mainland. Along west coast islands - rich neighborhoods (villas, governor's residence); in the Malabar Hill area there is the Hanging Garden Park. On an island off the western coast is located one of the symbols of Mumbai - the Haji Ali Mosque.

The semicircular Marine Drive skirts Back Bay in the south of the island. 8 km from Bombay - Elephanta Island (Gharapuri) with cave temples (dating back to the 8th century); in the largest of them there is a gigantic bust of the three-faced Shiva (about 6 m high; 8th century) and reliefs.

The city expands towards Solsett Island, and the official urban area (since 1950) stretches from south to north, from the fort to the town of Thane. In the northern part of Bombay there are the Trombay nuclear research center, the Institute of Technology (-, built with the help of the USSR), oil refineries, chemical plants, machine-building plants, and thermal power plants.

The city has announced the construction of the world's second tallest building, the India Tower. This building is due to be completed by 2016.

Department of Housing and Utilities

The municipality supplies the city with drinking water from lakes national park, collects waste (78,000 metric tons per year).

The city has a developed telephone network and cellular operators with large coverage of the area.

mass media

In Mumbai, newspapers are published in English (Times of India, Midday, Aftonun, Asia Age, Economic Times, Indian Express), Bengali, Tamil, Marathi, Hindi. The city has television channels (more than 100 in different languages) and radio stations (8 stations broadcast in the FM range and 3 in AM).

Education

There are public and private schools in Mumbai. Private schools base their policy on better education and provide good knowledge in English. Public schools educate children of poor people who cannot pay for private schools. After ten years of study (secondary education), students study for 2 years at colleges in four areas: art, trade, the science And legislation. This is accompanied by a vocational training course. Most of the professional colleges in Mumbai are affiliated to the University of Mumbai (one of the largest universities in the world). Mumbai also has a developed system of higher university education and university science. Universities in Mumbai are considered among the best both in India and throughout Asia.
Among them:

• - the country's leading technological and engineering university and one of the main research centers in the world.