Stories about a cat's travels. The city of Lucca in Italy is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany.

December 7th, 2015

This wooden crucifix was carved from cedar of Lebanon by the evangelical Nicodemus. Nicodemus was a member of the Sanhedrin and a secret disciple of Christ. Together with Joseph of Arimathea, Nicodemus removed the body of Jesus from the Cross. When Nicodemus decided to make an image of the crucified Christ, he encountered a difficulty: he could not reproduce the facial features of Jesus. however, the Face appeared miraculously thanks to angelic help, as stated in some versions of the legend. The crucifix is ​​the main relic of Lucca.

I liked looking at the faces of the people accompanying the Holy Face; here each participant is carefully depicted and with his own individual character. True, for this I had to sacrifice a coin to turn on the lighting in the dark chapel.

The most shocking detail of the interior is Saint Zita. The mummified saint looks very creepy, just like... I'll quote the wiki

Zita was born in 1212 in the village of Monsagrati, near the city of Lucca, Tuscany. At the age of 12, she began serving in the Fatinelli family's house. For a long time, employers overworked the girl and often beat her. However, the continuous bad attitude towards Zita did not deprive her inner world and peace of mind. Zita endured the bullying humbly, which, in the end, softened the attitude of her owners and colleagues [colleagues, Giuseppe! who wrote this article?] at work. Zita's constant piety and patience led the Fatinelli family to Christian conversion. Zita considered her work a calling from God and an element of personal repentance.

After her death, members of this family began to venerate Zita as a saint. In 1580, her body was exhumed and it turned out that the relics of Saint Zita were incorrupt. They were transferred to the Basilica of St. Fredian in the city of Lucca, where they are currently kept.

All three famous churches of Lucca impressed me, and the best part is that they are located within a five-minute walk from each other, so even if you are short on time, you can easily see them in one sitting.

40. Amphitheater Square

IN ancient times Lucca was a rich city and could afford an arena for gladiator fights for ten thousand spectators. Over time, the Lucca Amphitheater was destroyed and built over with buildings. Now his arena rests three meters deep under the square. But in the 19th century, the authorities decided to build a square on this site, repeating its shape as a Roman arena. This is how Piazza dell'Anfiteatro, picturesque and unusual with its oval shape, appeared.

I am, as always, beautiful, but since I was walking my friend home in the morning, I had to capture myself in a mirrored display case.

Lucca is a moderately touristic city, and I found the largest concentration of my fellow travelers in the Amphitheater Square. There is also the largest concentration of black brothers selling all sorts of nonsense.

On the outside of the Amphitheater square, in some places the remains of the upper tiers of the ancient arena have been preserved.

Lucca was simply a balm for my travel-weary soul. No, really, like, in addition to many interesting sights, there is a very pleasant atmosphere here, a comfortable and prosperous city.

31. Guinigi Tower

In the Middle Ages, a whole “forest” of high residential towers rose above Lucca. They were built to decorate the city and demonstrate the wealth of the owner of the household. Nowadays a similar landscape with towers can be seen, but in Lucca, in fact, only one tower survived. The tower was built by the Guinigi family, who actually ruled Lucca at the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries. She left behind a rich residence with a 45-meter tower. It all ended with the last descendant of the Guinigi family transferring the tower into the ownership of the city.

The Guinigi were inventive builders: they decorated their tower with a cap of living green trees. On the upper platform of the tower there are boxes with earth in which seven holm oaks grow. And from the top of the tower - just under the canopy of these very oak trees - there is an excellent view of the entire city.

I decided that I should definitely climb the Guinigi Tower, since the entrance there is quite inexpensive, three or four euros. While I was getting up, I looked into the windows of the houses of the Luccans (or as the resident of Lucca would correctly say?).

Clock tower and bell tower of San Frediano.

Amphitheater Square.

The clock tower is a little closer.

Those famous oak trees on the roof of the tower. This is the first time I've seen this!

Duomo of Lucca.

The patios, it's amazing how much green there is.

By and large, I had already visited the main attractions of Lucca, but I decided to walk around the city I liked a little more.

The first column in Italy dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. in honor of the adoption of the corresponding dogma in the 19th century. But in Lucca it appeared as much as 200 years earlier, when Immaculate Conception did not become an official dogma.

Another fountain with the purest drinking water. Just then I ran out of drink, I stood in line behind the seniors and also filled a bottle with local mineral water. The water tastes very good!

Gothic San Francesco 15th century.

This is not only a church, but also a monastery. I entered the open gate and walked a little around the monastery courtyards.

Rear facade of the Franciscan Monastery Church.

Behind the monastery there is a vast square. Not only were there no tourists here anymore, but the locals, it seemed, didn’t even get to this area.

I climbed out onto the city wall again, only this time in the part opposite from the station in the north of the city. Let me remind you that Lucca is one of four cities in Italy where the wall surrounding the city has completely survived. However, it doesn’t look much like a wall, more like a boulevard.

A traditional cat, without which it is impossible to make a normal report.

And I would like to emphasize once again that Lucca is charming and nice even away from the tourist routes.

I haven't shown even half of the churches in Lucca. It’s simply unrealistic to get around them all in half a day. At every step there are masterpieces like this Chiesa di Santa Maria Forisportam 12th century. The church is interesting because there is a sundial inside, made on the principle of a camera obscura. A small hole is punched in the wall, and at noon a ray of sun points to a certain place on the floor of the church.

Memorial plaque in honor of Blessed Gemma Galgani.

In 1899, when she was 20 years old, Gemma developed stigmata. She stated that she began to receive private revelations from the Virgin Mary, her guardian angel and other saints. At the request of her spiritual father, Gemma prayed for an end to these visions and the stigmata disappeared.

Living in poverty, Gemma became widely known for her holy life in the city of Lucca, but she did not find support for her spiritual life, meeting with disdain and negative attitudes towards her visions among her family and the church hierarchy. In early 1903, Gemma fell ill with tuberculosis. During her short but fatal illness, she experienced various extraordinary mystical phenomena. At the beginning of Holy Week, her health deteriorated sharply and she died on Good Friday on April 11, 1903.

After Gemma's death, her spiritual father, who kept all her mystical experiences secret, wrote a detailed biography, publishing Gemma's personal diary and letters. Church authorities, after the publication of Gemma’s writings, recognized the authenticity of her mystical life.

When visiting Italy, you can’t help but stop in a city called Lucca, located on the Serchio River in the province of Tuscany. It is completely surrounded by a fortress wall, 4.2 km long, built in the 16th-17th centuries. It protected the city not only from enemies, but also from floods, which often threatened to destroy many buildings. The architecture of Lucca is dominated by ancient buildings, churches and towers. Locals proudly note that it was in Lucca that great composers like Giacomo Puccini and Luigi Boccherini were born. Centuries-old history has left its mark on all spheres of life of the townspeople, so Lucca will be of interest to all tourists who want to get acquainted with the customs of the country.

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City gate Porta san Pietro

But first things first. The journey begins by entering the city through the Porta san Pietro, built in 1565-1566. Previously, only they were open to foreigners who wanted to get to Lucca. The layout of the city has remained unchanged since the 3rd century AD, when the Romans ruled here. The city is divided into four parts by two streets, one of which runs from north to south (cardo), and the other from east to west (decumanus). They intersect in the center, and the remaining streets run parallel to them and divide the entire territory into small squares.

Piazza San Michele in Foro

Piazza San Michele in Foro is located almost in the very center of the city. A church of the same name was built on it in the 12th century, famous for its unique architecture, which has survived to this day. The shape of the building resembles a huge majestic ship. On the outside of the façade there is a statue of Archangel Michael.

They say that the saint’s hand is decorated with a ring with real diamonds, which was presented to the church as a gift by a grateful parishioner. Many people wait until the evening hour, when twilight is just beginning to envelop the city, to see a bright sparkling dot on the saint’s hand. Near the church there is a house that silently witnessed the birth of the baby Giacomo Puccini, who later became a great composer whose operas are still admired by the whole world.

Mercy Square

There are many squares in Lucca. As soon as you move just a little away from one, you immediately find yourself on another. So, not far from San Michele there is a square called piazza di San Salvatore, which is popularly called Mercy Square. The church of the same name, built in the 12th century, has strict classical forms.

Market Square

Following further along the street Roma and then Fallungo, you come to Market Square, built in the shape of an oval. Crowds of people always gathered here. But before, people came to gaze at the brave gladiators who fought in the arena of the majestic amphitheater that previously stood on this site.

This explains the shape of the square and the presence of arched passages through which animals and people once came out to entertain the public with their bloody fights. The presence of this building suggests that Lucca was quite rich, since not many even large cities could afford such luxury.

Basilica of San Fridiano

The Basilica di San Frediano church deserves special attention. The fact is that this is the only religious building erected in the Romanesque style between 1112 and 1147. If you go inside the church, you can see its landmark - the baptismal font, made and installed here in the 12th century by the architect Roberto.

It has a somewhat irregular geometric shape with biblical scenes painted on it in marble. Under the altar is the tomb of the founder of the church of San Frediano, and a little to the right is the glass coffin of Saint Zita, revered in Italy by the common people and servants.

Clock Tower Torre delle Ore

Leaving the marble vaults of the church and moving further, you come across the tower of the Torre delle Ore Clock. It was the first building in Lucca to have a clock installed on it in the 14th century. They differed from their modern counterparts in that they did not show time and did not even have a dial. Their duties were only to notify residents about the approach of midnight.

Guinigi Tower

It is simply impossible to visit Lucca and not see Guinigi, which is one of the symbols of the city of Lucca. The tower is visible from afar and is an architectural masterpiece. The palace itself is not made in the form of one separate building, but is a small town. Small buildings, decorated with intricately shaped turrets, were built for members of the large Guinigi family. The founder of this dynasty ruled Lucca at the beginning of the 15th century.

All tourists are advised to climb this famous tower, where from a height of 44 meters an amazing view of the city and the surrounding area opens. This excursion costs only three euros, but the splendor of the panorama that opens can amaze those who have visited here for the first time. It is also surprising that centuries-old huge trees grow on the terrace of the tower, among which there are oaks that are more than five hundred years old.

Cathedral of San Martino

We get down from the Guinigi Tower and move on, because ahead is the main church and landmark of the city of Lucca Cathedral San Martino, built in the 6th century, but after that it was rebuilt several times, and has come down to us in the form it was given in the 15th century. It begins to surprise and delight as soon as you enter. On all sides of the front door there are images telling the story of St. Martin's life. Walking further, the eye begins to inquisitively search for a wall drawing depicting the Labyrinth. Ancient writings claim that this is the plan of the very labyrinth through which Theseus passed, led by the thread of Aridna.

In the sacristy you can see the sarcophagus in which Paolo Guinigi's wife Ilaria rests. At the time of her death, she had just turned twenty-six years old, so her grief-stricken husband asked the famous master Jacopo Della Quercia to create a worthy refuge for her beautiful young body. And the master created a real masterpiece, putting all his passion and skill into this brilliant creation, which is still admired by millions of people from all over the world.

But Jacopo Della Querch did not stop there and created a magnificent statue of John the Baptist for the Cathedral of St. Martin. Further, the attention of visitors will definitely be attracted by the wooden crucifix and the legend that is associated with it. They say that it was carved by Nicodemus from Lebanese cedar, and the image of Christ was suggested to him by angels. When leaving Lucca, many townspeople take with them a copy of the Volto Santo crucifix, confident that it will protect them from troubles and misfortunes on their long journey.

Napoleon Square

Completing the journey, we find ourselves in Piazza Napoleone, piazza Napoleone, so named due to the fact that Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Eliza and her husband once lived in the palace located on this site. Now the palace is open to numerous guests who can visit the art gallery and the city library, which contains rare ancient books and manuscripts. Another collection of paintings is located in the neighboring Manzi palace building.

As for the best time of year to visit Lucca, there is no clear answer. In summer the city is quite hot and dry, but in winter it is moderately humid and warm.

To get to know the sights of the city in more detail, it is best to book a city tour. It lasts approximately three hours, is conducted by a Russian-speaking guide, and costs about 180 euros. This walk includes a visit to the Guinigi Tower, Piazza Napoleon, Giacomo Puccini's house and other attractions described above.

How to get around the city

Having reached the city by car, it is better to leave your own vehicle outside the city walls in specially designated parking spaces. The city of Lucca is ideal for walking or cycling.

City residents most often choose city buses, tickets for which can be purchased at any tobacco kiosks. Once at the train station, you can easily get to the center using electric buses.

Prices in cafes and restaurants

While walking around such a wonderful city, you can’t help but visit small cozy cafes or restaurants. Lunch there for one person will cost approximately 30 euros. Let us add here that a bottle of water with a capacity of 0.33 liters costs about two euros, local beer will cost almost 6 euros per half liter, and a cup of coffee or cappuccino - 1.5–2 euros.

Of course, in expensive restaurants aimed at tourists, these prices are several orders of magnitude higher.

Discover the city of Lucca and you will definitely want to return to it again.

Overlooking the ancient ruins of a Roman amphitheater

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No real traveler would refuse to find himself in a city with a long history, surrounded by fortress walls of the 16th century, practically undamaged by time, among the architecture of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, colorful markets and shops with local delicacies... Lucca can surprise, enchant, intrigue and leave an unforgettable impression.

Lucca is a city with a population of 90 thousand inhabitants, an area of ​​185.5 sq. km, located in the northwest, near, and.

History of Lucca

Regarding the origin of the city of Lucca, historians express different opinions: some believe that the city, which arose in a marshy area, has a connection with, based on the Celtic-Ligurian name “Luk”, which means “swamp”; other scholars, based on recent archaeological discoveries, attribute the founding of the city to the Etruscans.

But be that as it may, already in 180 BC. Lucca was a Roman colony, as evidenced by the oval-shaped Amphitheater Square and the forum, located on the site of the modern Piazza San Michele. However, traces of the presence of the ancient Romans are most easily recognized in historical center a city whose streets repeat the strict perpendicularity of Roman streets. The first fortress walls that bounded the square of the ancient Roman urban layout date back to the same period.

The history of Lucca consists of periods of war and foreign domination followed by years of peace and prosperity. In the 5th century, Lucca was occupied by the Goths, in the 6th century the city was conquered by the Byzantines, then Lucca turned into one of the most important cities of the Longobard kingdom. With the fall of Longobard power in 773, the rule of the Carolingians began, under whose rule the city began to actively develop, thanks to commercial activities and textile production - silk was made here highest quality, which was valued in many countries.

Textile products of ancient Lucca (museum in the Mansi Palace). Photoflickr. com

Lucca and neighboring Pisa had been at odds with each other for a long time, and in 1314 the Pisans finally established their power in Lucca, which entailed the loss of Lucca's monopoly on the textile market. In 1370 Lucca regained its freedom and independence, and in 1438 a truce was signed with Florence, returning the city to a state of economic and political stability.

In 1799, during Napoleon's Italian campaign, Lucca came under his rule. About it historical fact is mentioned in his novel “War and Peace” by Leo Tolstoy, opening his famous work with the following phrase uttered by the maid of honor Anna Scherer in 1805: “Eh bien, mon prince, Gênes et Lucques ne sont plus que des apanages, des "pomestja" de la famille Buonaparte..." (Well, Prince, Genoa and Lucca became no more than estates of the Bonaparte family...) In 1815 Lucca became the Duchy of Bourbon, and in 1847 the Duke of Lucca Charles Louis of Bourbon-Parma ceded the Duchy of Lucca to the Grand Duchy Tuscany, which led to the loss of his independence.

Coat of arms of the Duchy of Lucca. Photo: loschermo.it

The tourist destination began to develop in Lucca around 1930, which was greatly facilitated by the construction of the Firenze-Mare (Florence - Sea) highway.

Sights of Lucca

The first thing that catches the eye of a tourist who decides to explore Lucca is the impressive fortress wall, built in the XV-XVII centuries to protect the city, 4223 meters long, with 11 bastions, six external and three internal gates. Already in the second half of the 19th century, the powerful fortress wall began to be used as a place for walking. For some time, until the 90s of the last century, cars, including heavy-duty ones, even drove along it - the only example in the world of such use of fortress walls. Today the city walls are a great place for walking and cycling.

Alley on the city wall. Photoflickr. com

Historical Center Lucca has remained virtually unchanged since the Middle Ages - the same narrow streets, squares with adjacent towers and palaces and about 60 churches. The city is crossed by the central street of ancient Lucca - Via Fillungo.

Via Fillungo. Photoflickr. com

Cathedral of St. Martin. Photo flickr.com

Among the masterpieces that can be seen inside the cathedral are the painting “Madonna Enthroned with Child and Saints” by the 15th century Florentine artist Domenico Ghirlandaio and the tombstone of Ilaria Carretto by the sculptor Jacopo Della Quercia.

Tombstone by Jacopo della Quercia. Photobefan. it

St. Michael's Church(Chiesa di San Michele in Foro), located on, and (Basilica di San Frediano) are striking examples of Pisan-Lucca architecture.

Church of St. Michael. Photoflickr. com

(Torre Giunigi) with a height of 44 meters is the main and most high tower Lucca is one of the few that have survived to this day, although at the beginning of the 14th century there were more than 250 towers and bell towers in the city. The Guinigi, the most noble family of the city, decided to ennoble their family tower by planting several oak trees on its top - a symbol of rebirth.

Guinigi Tower.Photoflickr. com

Amphitheater Square(Piazza dell "Anfiteatro) has the shape of an ellipse, since it was built in the Middle Ages on the remains of an ancient Roman amphitheater dating back to the 2nd century. The level of the modern square is three meters higher than the ancient arena. There are four gates leading to the square, only one of which , the lowest, completely repeat their medieval original.

Amphitheater Square. Photobanningpoverty. org

Villa Paolo Guinigi(XV century) since 1924 is the location of state museum, containing a rich artistic and archaeological collection.

Mansi Palace(Palazzo Mansi), built at the end of the 16th century, is also now a museum, the exhibits of which are not only paintings by masters of the 19th century, but also samples of ancient fabrics and textile products from Lucca.

Pfanner Palace(Palazzo Pfanner) from the 17th century is a magnificent example of Lucca Baroque, surrounded by a beautiful garden.

IN House-Museum of Giacomo Puccini, where the composer was born, his letters, scores, photographs, and personal items are currently stored.

What to try in Lucca

Local cuisine is based on ancient traditions of preparing simple, but tasty and original dishes. Let's name some of them. Garmucha- spring soup with onions, peas, artichokes, asparagus, green beans in beef broth, served with pieces of meat and brisket and toasted bread with olive oil. Matuffi- tender polenta (porridge made from corn flour) with meat sauce or mushrooms and Parmesan. Rovellina- thin slices of beef, fried and stewed in a sauce of tomatoes, capers and herbs. Fried baccala(dried cod) with chickpeas seasoned with olive oil, pepper and salt. Rabbit in sauce made from onions, garlic, tomatoes, olives, red peppers and herbs. Pork with chestnut flour polenta, lamb with olives, trout from the Serchio River on a spit.

Vegetable casseroles are also an integral part of Lucca cuisine, using spinach, green beans, artichokes, cauliflower and chard. Vegetables are baked in the oven with bechamel sauce and egg yolks. Almost all dishes are seasoned with local, marked DOP.

Sweets lovers should pay attention to buccellato- sweet pie with raisins and anise, castagnaccio- chestnut flour pie with pine nuts and raisins, nechchi- pancakes made from chestnut flour with ricotta filling.

Sweet necchi. Photonellamiacucina. altervista. org

Guilt This area includes both white and red Montecarlo DOC and Colline Lucchesi DOC, as well as the aromatic herbal liqueur Biadina, which is also an excellent souvenir for tourists, since it is produced only in one place in the historical center of Lucca.

How to get to Lucca

By car: from Florence along the A11 Firenze-Mare motorway; from Genoa - take the A12 Genova-Rosignano motorway.

You can reach Lucca by train or bus from Florence, Pisa and Viareggio.

By plane: the nearest airport is Pisa - 30 km, Florence airport - 70 km, Rome airport - 350 km.

Travel notes, day 5

Lucca is small town in Tuscany, 20 kilometers from Pisa and not far from Florence. From Pisa you can get here in just 20 minutes by train. This capital city the province of the same name, which, for example, is where all our oligarchs live. But few people have done this before beautiful city gets there.

It is famous primarily for its perfectly preserved bastion-type fortress (it is considered the second largest in Europe) and for the fact that Gaius Julius Caesar and his comrades in the first triumvirate visited here. The streets of Lucca follow the ancient Roman layout, and the Frankish Road, an ancient pilgrimage route, also passed through the city.

01. The Polish train PESA runs from Pisa to Lucca.

02. In 20 minutes you reach your destination comfortably.

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04. And from the station to the fortress walls it’s literally a 5-minute walk.

05. Fortress Gate (St. Peter's Gate). They were built in the 16th century during the reconstruction of the fortification.

06. They are carefully guarded by lions.

07. Beauty begins immediately behind the fortress walls! Everywhere you look there is a miracle and a fairy tale. If you need to look for some in other cities Beautiful places, then in Lucca you need to try to find something ugly - and you won’t find it!

08. The city is very green.

09. Cathedral of St. Martina. The first temple on this site was built in the 6th century, then it was rebuilt several times. The history of this particular building dates back to 1060.

10. Having bought a ticket, you can climb his tower.

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13. In general, there are a lot of towers in Lucca, you have to climb them all on foot, and they all offer amazing views.

14. On the left is the Clock Tower, the tallest of the medieval towers Lucca. There are 130 of them in total, but with observation platforms Not all are visible.

15. A row of trees is a fortress wall on which plane trees are planted. You can walk along it.

16. Flea market near the cathedral (we will return to it later)

17. And this is the Guinigi tower. But this is not the bell tower of the cathedral, but one of the first penthouses. That is, it is a residential tower with trees on the roof! On the upper platform there is a garden of evergreen oaks, and below it there used to be a kitchen. By the way, Guinigi is not just another saint, but an influential family from Lucca that built the tower. This is the ancient Italian Trump Tower.

18. I already climbed it. View of the cathedral, from the bell tower of which the previous shots were taken.

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20. Beauty!

21. Bell tower of the Basilica of St. Fridiana.

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23. Can you tell me what century it is now?

24. In the middle is the bell tower of the Church of San Michele

25. Apennines

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27. The city has perfectly preserved narrow medieval streets.

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31. Parking seems like a foreign element.

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36. Public space)

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39. Sometimes there are ruins on the streets.

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41. Oval square

42. Its other name is Amphitheater Square. There really was once an ancient Roman amphitheater here, then salt warehouses and even a prison, but in the 19th century, architects decided to return the square to its original shape.

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44. Now this is the base for several street cafes.

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49. Flea market

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52. Here, as expected, they sell all sorts of junk.

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56. Compared to flea markets near Moscow, everything is very civilized and even beautiful.

57. You can buy one for your residence.

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62. There are even such things.

Do you want to organize a trip to the city of art Lucca and need accurate information? Do you want to know? why tourists love this medieval Italian city and are in no hurry to leave here? Quick guide around the city will help you.

Briefly about the history of the city

Hotels in Lucca and satellite map

What museums are worth visiting?

The great Italian opera composer was born in Lucca Giacomo Puccini. Visit the Composer's House Museum and get acquainted with the stages of his life and work, see family portraits, letters and notes of the composer, as well as the famous Steiway piano on which the masterpiece was created Turandot. (1926). Address: Piazza San Michele. The entrance ticket costs 7 euros. Schedule:

Pinacoteca Palazzo Mansi- for art lovers. Mostly paintings from the 19th century are presented here. You can also enjoy the works Tintoretto, Titian, Ghirlandaio, Veronese And Domenichino. Address: Via Galli Tassi, 43 (on the map). The entrance ticket costs 4 euros. Schedule:

On weekdays: from 8.30 to 19.30
Weekends and Monday: closed

National Museum of Villa Guinigi(on via della Quarquonia). Among the many exhibits from different eras, the most notable are painted cross Berlinghiero Berlinghieri, SorrowMatteo Civitali, Ecstasy of St. Catherine of Siena work Pompeo Batoni, Madonna of Mercy Florentine artist Fra Bartolomeo. Schedule:

Tuesday - Saturday: from 8.30 to 19.30
In July and August it is also open on Sundays from 8.30 to 13.30
Closed - Monday

Image gallery - Villa Guinigi: