While vacationing in Sicily, we decided to move around the island by car. We rented a car for this purpose. Of course, the first thing we did was go to famous volcano- Etna. Looking at the steam that constantly rises from the mountain, we hoped to see a real fire-breathing crater.

From Rifugio Sapienza to the next stop - La Montagnola (altitude 2500 meters) there is a funicular. A round-trip ticket costs 27 euros. After going up the funicular, you can either take a tour on specially equipped all-wheel drive off-road buses (about 50 euros), or go on your own.

Excursion to Etna

We took a tour, and our friends decided to walk to the crater on their own. Although I didn’t see people who came with their own feet near the craters. I would not risk walking on the hot ground without a guide, because if you dig just a meter, the temperature of the ground will reach 120 degrees Celsius. So I stumbled and...

You need to keep in mind that it is quite cold at altitude (the volcano is 3,300 meters high), so jackets are available for rent at the station. We were stupid and only took one. And of course I had to give it to my daughter. And I was content with a denim jacket, which didn’t help at all. When the wind started to blow, I had the feeling that it reached my bones.

By the way, the volcano itself ejects exclusively steam. So we didn’t see any fire-breathing craters. Just as we didn’t see the beautiful views that, according to rumors, open from the top. The reason for such bad luck was that we arrived late - around lunchtime. Etna should be visited in the morning.

Legends about Etna

Translated from Phoenician, “Etna” means “Mountain of Fire.” Throughout its existence, it has erupted about 200 times. Last eruption was January 3-31, 2011. Local residents are accustomed to eruptions. In addition, volcanic ash is an excellent fertilizer. Therefore, Sicily has been the European breadbasket since ancient times.

According to Virgil, Cyclopes lived in the caves of Etna. By the way, it was here that Odysseus met them during his travels.

Unfortunately, we ignored the advice of the guides that it is better to visit Etna at dawn and arrived at the mountain around lunchtime. As a result, at the moment when we got to the top, it was already completely in the clouds and there were no photos with cool views.

Volcano Etna is the very first attraction we saw in Sicily. And, perhaps, it is the brightest and most memorable, must-see in a word. As I already said, we flew to Catania on a direct flight from Moscow. We immediately rented a car at the airport and went closer to Mount Etna to the town of Nicolosi. We left our visit to Catania for last, after we’ve toured the entire island. There were several reasons for this, I’ll tell you more about that later. I decided to tell the story of the journey sequentially along the route. You can read it in full in this one.

Before climbing Mount Etna, we made a stop at Nicolosi . The town is located right at the foot of Etna and is located in the territory Natural Park Etna . This famous place among those heading to the volcano. We didn’t explore the town itself, we just drove around main street Via Etnea leading to the volcano. I regret a little that I was too lazy to go for a walk. However, the town left a pleasant impression: a leisurely life, narrow streets, small coffee shops and shops.


Nicolosi, Via Etnea

In Nicolosi we spent the night in a hotel. The villa is located one kilometer from the center of Nicolosi and just 1.5 km from Etna Park. The distance from here to the Rifugio Sapienza base, where the cable car to the volcano is located, is about 18 km (30 minutes by car). The most convenient way to get there is by car along Strada Provinciale 92 or Via Catania. The hotel has 2 free parking, restaurant and pizzeria, swimming pool with sun loungers and well-kept garden.


Hotel in Nicolosi

Before climbing Etna, I was looking for a hotel with a pool to take a break from the road. First I found a stunning villa for ridiculous price on Airbnb , but the owner tactfully refused the reservation. This discouraged and upset me, I really liked that option. Then I found this good old villa hotel for about the same price. And you know, I didn’t regret it at all. This is the one and best hotels, where we stayed in Sicily. I will prepare a separate review about it.


Hotel in Nicolosi

How to get to Etna

Mount Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe. Etna is object world heritage UNESCO . It is located in the eastern part of the island of Sicily, 35 km from Catania. The height of Etna is 3340 meters above sea level.

There are different ways to get to the volcano. Cruises around Etna train Circumetnea . This is an original way to explore the surroundings of the volcano, but it is not the most convenient for climbing. There are direct lines to Etna Shuttle Buses from Catania. This is a great option to get to the volcano on a budget. But in my opinion, it is more convenient to get there on your own by car or by taxi from Catania; the journey takes no more than 1 hour.

Bus from Catania to Etna and back


Rifugio Sapienza Base

Bus routes along the route Catania - Etna carries out AST company . One way ticket price is 4 euros, two-way ticket - 6.60 euros. There is only 1 flight per day on the route Catania - Etna and one return flight from Etna to Catania.

Departure from Catania at 8:15 am Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII next to the main railway station of Catania. Travel time is 2 hours. Arrival at the Rifugio Sapienza base at 10:15. The bus passes through Nicolosi and makes several stops there.

Return flight from Rifugio-Sapienza bases to Catania at 16:30. Arrival in Catania at 18:30. Flights to Etna operate every day on weekdays and weekends according to this schedule, except holidays. Find out about holidays in advance.

You can buy tickets at the company's office and in tobacco shops (tobacco kiosks that sell drinks, cigarettes, newspapers). You cannot buy a ticket from the driver. There are many people wanting to go to Etna, so come early to buy tickets. Tickets can only be purchased on the day of departure; they are not sold in advance or online. The company's office is located next to the bus stop in Piazza Papa Giovanni XXIII next to the main railway station.

AST bus company website: www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it

By car to Etna on your own


Rifugio Sapienza Base

Getting to the foot of Etna by car yourself is the most comfortable option in my opinion. First of all, you are not limited by time. You can go up and down at any time, no need to rush to catch the bus. Secondly, on the way to the volcano you can enjoy the scenery to your heart’s content and make stops along the way to take cool pictures or just breathe in the fresh mountain air. Thirdly, in general, the most convenient way to travel with your family in Sicily is by car. Warm jackets for climbing the volcano, a stroller and all the necessary things are always at hand.

To climb Etna you need to go either along the most popular Southern route to Rifugio Sapienza, or along Northern route to Linguaglossa. Read more about climbing routes in the next paragraph.

From Catania along the Southern route to the base of Rifugio-Sanienza you need to go towards Via Etnea and Via Tarderia/SP141 towards Via della Regione and Via Catania.

If you make a stop in Nicolosi, you can continue the route to Etna along Strada Provinciale 92. It takes almost the same time as Via Catania, but there is less traffic.

From Catania along the Northern route to Linguaglossa you need to take the A18/E45 and Strada Regionale/Via Mareneve.

By train around Etna


Surroundings of Etna

You can ride around Etna on a historical by train Circumetnea (Circumetnea). This route was launched back in 1898 and is still in operation. Circumetnea train - not only tourist entertainment, it is primarily intended for local residents living in the vicinity of Etna. The train makes an almost complete circle, passing through villages at the foot of Mount Etna.

The train departs from the railway Borgo station (Borgo) in Catania. End station route - in a coastal town Riposto (Riposto). The length of the route is 111 km. Travel time is about 3 hours. The train makes many stops along the way.

Tickets for the Circumetnea train can be purchased at the ticket office at the railway station. A ticket from Catania to Riposto will cost 7.9 euros one way and 13 euros both ways. By purchasing one ticket you can get off at any station and board the next train. In this way you can see Etna in 360 degrees.

I spoke with two traveling American men. We met in the port of Catania. They told us how they traveled around Etna on the Circumetnea train and were delighted with the scenery and the trip in general.

Climbing routes to Mount Etna

There are various ways to climb the volcano. There are 3 tourist routes to Etna. You can climb on your own or buy a group excursion or hire a personal guide. Any of them promises a lot of impressions from picturesque views of the mighty volcano.


Volcano Etna, at an altitude of 2920 meters

Climbing routes to Mount Etna:

  • Southern route (Etna Sud)- the most popular path to the volcano. It starts from the base of Rifugio Sapienza (altitude 1900 m). The route involves going up by cable car or on foot from the base of Rifugio Sapienza to the base of La Montagnola (2500 metres), then going by bus or on foot to an altitude of 2920 metres.
  • Eastern route starts from the village of Zafferana Etnea and also leads to the base of Rifugio Sapienza.
  • Northern route (Etna Nord) goes through small towns Piedimonte Etneo and Linguaglossa and leads to the base of Piano Provenzano. There is no cable car here. But the northern slopes are more picturesque and green.

We have chosen the most convenient and popular Southern route to climb Mount Etna. We reached the Rifugio Sapienza base from Nicolosi by car along Strada Provinciale 92. The main landmark from the road is the hotel, which is located next to the funicular. The hotel is popular among travelers at any time of the year. After all, in winter Etna opens ski season. There is a cafe and many souvenir shops in the parking area.

Near the Rifugio Sapienza station are the lowest and oldest Silvestri craters . There are signs in the direction of these craters. So you don’t have to go higher on the cable car to see the craters. For some travelers, a short walk is enough. But I don’t see the point in going to Etna without making a real climb to at least 3000 meters.


The most popular option for climbing the volcano is a funicular ride to the base of La Montagnola (2500 meters) and a bus to a height of 2920 meters. Ticket " funicular+bus+guided tour" costs 63 euros. The ticket already includes a guided tour. Tickets are sold at the funicular ticket office.

Separately funicular from Rifugio Sapienza to La Montagnola base it costs back and forth 30 euros. Then you can go on foot. Many people do this. But halfway there they already look tired and, in my opinion, they are openly jealous of those who travel by bus.

By the way, it is possible to climb Mount Etna from the Rifugio Sapienza base completely on foot and free. However, calculate your strength and time. If you are into sports and want to conquer Etna, then put on comfortable shoes and go!

Official website of the Etna cable car: www.funiviaetna.com


Funivia dell'Etna cable car

Since we are traveling with a child, for us the option of a funicular + bus to the craters turned out to be ideal and as comfortable as possible.


Rifugio Sapienza Base

First, we took the funicular to the base of La Montagnola at an altitude of 2500 meters. Keep in mind that it is windy and colder here than below. If you are going to climb even higher to the craters, I advise you to take a warm jacket with a hood, comfortable boots or sneakers. Just in case there is rental of warm clothes for a couple of euros.


Base La Montagnola at an altitude of 2500 meters
Bus stop at an altitude of 2900 meters

It’s clear that we fell behind the group while we were packing Eva into the ergo-backpack (we didn’t take the stroller with us). Therefore, I listened to the main information. But we calmly and leisurely enjoyed the black cosmic landscapes of solidified lava. By the way, you can join the next group and later go down to the buses at any time. No one limits time.

There is information on the forums that local guides offer a climb to the very top crater Bocca Nuova (Bocca Nuova) at an altitude of 3340 meters. The ticket costs 85 euros. It includes a funicular, a bus to an altitude of 2920 meters and a walk to the top of Bocca Nuova, accompanied by a guide, clothing and necessary equipment. The group consists of 20-30 people.

It’s a pity that I learned about the opportunity to climb to the very top crater only later. I would like to see with my own eyes what is hidden from the crowds of tourists. But I’m not sure if we would have been allowed with a one-year-old child?

The best photos at the top are taken when visibility is good. Although hanging clouds and light fog, on the contrary, add special magic to the photo.

  • Etna's official height changes with each eruption.
  • In the same way, with each eruption they change walking routes climbing the volcano.
  • As a result of lateral eruptions, Etna formed more than 400 craters .
  • On average, the volcano erupts lava once every three months.
  • Silvestri Crater – one of the old extinct craters of Mount Etna. It is located at an altitude of 1900 meters and can be reached by car.
  • Winter on Etna ski season . There is an Italian ski school on the Northern route
  • Products grown on the slopes of Etna have a unique taste. Lava the soil is rich in microelements . They produce here honey, wine, nut butters
  • Lava stone is used to make a variety of souvenirs for every taste. Or you can grab small pieces of lava directly from the volcano; they didn’t take it from us at the airport.

Excursions to Mount Etna

If you are too lazy to organize a bus trip and bother with renting a car, you can buy an excursion to Etna. Such excursions are sold to everyone popular resorts. The cost varies, depending on the distance to Etna and the excursion program. Find out what exactly is included in the price of the excursion and what you need to pay extra for(for the cable car, lunch and drinks for example).

Excursions can be purchased from private guides or booked online on excursion sites from local residents - such as, or on Airbnb in the impressions section. See what individual and group options are available . The prices are not outrageous, please note that often the cost for an excursion is indicated regardless of the number of people. It is especially beneficial if you are traveling in a small group of 4-6 people.

By the way, this is what I initially wanted to do: book volcano excursion with Giuseppe on Airbnb . But then I thought that it wouldn’t be very comfortable with Eva, because I didn’t know how difficult the route would be. Although now having already visited, I understand that it would be interesting to get such an excursion experience with a local guide. The price is not expensive, but what a thrill it is to communicate with a real Sicilian.

In total, it took us about 3.5 hours to climb Etna. This does not include the road by car to the Rifugio Sapienza base. It took about 1 hour to climb to a height of 2920 meters (funicular + bus). We spent about 1.5 hours at the top. And the descent through the gift shop also took 1 hour. We traveled in May, there weren’t many tourists, so we didn’t have to stand in lines. So we got it done quickly enough and went shopping in Sicilia Outlet Village . The most better place for shopping in Sicily, but more on that another time.

I hope that our little trip to Etna will inspire you to visit Sicily and make your own ascent to the volcano, along your own routes. And we are always glad to see your happy reviews! Take your children with you so that they not only learn about Mount Etna from geography textbooks, but see with their own eyes and touch pieces of lava with their own hands.

Anyone who has visited Sicily does not leave indifferent. That's what they say. Everything touches you - the beauty of the local nature, the historical content of the island, friendliness and friendliness local population, varied cuisine. For me, the most amazing and amazing thing in Europe, and especially in the Mediterranean countries, is that it is clearly depicted - an amazing and harmonious combination of the fantastic beauty of nature and historical values, absolutely integrated into the everyday leisurely life of happy local residents. They don’t seem to notice the splendor that is happening around, but every time I am amazed and even slightly envious of their heavenly residence.

So, Sicily, Trinacria, as it was called since the 7th century BC. The name indicated the triangular shape of the island, and in its modern symbol one can see the head of the Gorgon Medusa, which protects from evil spirits, three legs directed in different directions and forming a circle, informing guests of the island about cyclicality and development; This composition is framed by ears of wheat, which are a symbol of fertility.

The east coast was surveyed during the first week of stay. Most beautiful city- Taormina. The most unusual experience is a trip to Etna. The most amazing thing is the sea. Its azure color... This is what you dream about on terrible, chilly Moscow nights. The combination of sea - sun - sky - greenery delights the eye incessantly. From Catana airport it takes about 3 hours through local traffic jams (they are repairing the road), and we are in the town of Giardini Naxos, where the Greeks once landed for the first time in search of new fertile lands. Typical resort with excellent sandy beach, a promenade, a street lined with shops, hotels and restaurants, a cloud of tourists wandering back and forth almost around the clock, and a feeling of relaxation. Our club hotel, Naxos Beach, is a little to the side and almost at the very end of the town stretched along the coast. Found behind the fence the whole city- everything for the laziest, who don’t even want to go to the nearest store outside the hotel. There are two options for accommodation: in the main building in a room or in villas scattered throughout the territory. Villeta is a two-story house designed for 9-10 rooms. I liked these dachas much better: there is less noise, there are fewer people, there is no feeling of hotel fuss, as if, indeed, at the dacha, there are gardens all around. Especially if it’s on the first floor - so you take out a chair and sit, sunbathe (for lovers), and from the veranda of the second floor I saw the sea and blooming garden, in the morning I woke up to the singing of birds and the jingling of bells - 3 times early in the morning they drove a flock of sheep through the neighboring meadow. A huge territory, its own beach, 3 swimming pools, all kinds of sports entertainment. The first evening, of course, was devoted to settling in, exploring the surroundings, and also making plans for the coming week. I walked along the beach, looked at the sea, inhaled its slightly salty smell (it’s not the Baltic, you can smell iodine and fish a kilometer away!), walked along all the hotel paths (this took about an hour!), chose an activity for tomorrow, and Then dinner arrived. It was decided not to slow down, and the very next day I left for Etna.

This is not my first time in the mountains, not my first time in a Mediterranean country, but the combination of colors and relief is still surprising. We pass small towns and villages, and the guide slowly tells their history, the history of the island. I was surprised to learn (apparently, the history course on this country passed me by) that Sicily became Italy only in 1860 thanks to comrade Garibaldi, and until that moment it belonged to whomever. An appetizing piece of sushi at the crossroads of sea trade routes, a pearl Mediterranean Sea opened its fertile lands to the Greeks, then the Romans came to replace them, immortalizing their presence in stone and the hearts of the local residents. Then the Carthaginians, the Normans, the Spaniards (the longest stay), very slightly the French and Austrians and, finally, the Italians. There is still some flirtatious aversion to each other. Italians joke that they are giving Sicily the boot, and Sicilians do not recognize Italian rule by electing their own parliament and promoting their own laws. Even the language, they say, is very different. Now this is already a fairy tale.

Etna is the pride of Sicily, local residents They respectfully call her the Lady - La Seniora. It gave them the basis of the economy - fertile lands, which the Greeks once coveted and began their conquest of the island. Citrus fruits here bear fruit all year round and even reach a unique state where you can see flowers, ovaries and ready-to-eat fruits on the same tree. The Italians call this condition with the beautiful word zagara (as well as the orange flower).

From my hotel window I could see the top of Etna. And in the morning, waking up, I tried to guess what kind of weather the coming day would bring us. Although, often, the clouds that thickened over the highest point of Europe and closed the abode of the gods from human eyes hung over it all day long, accelerating the winds and freezing the travelers to the bones, while at the foot and in the valleys the sun shone brightly and it was hot. This happened on my first trip to Etna. From the sun-drenched valleys, where the air was hot and still, we came to the cold kingdom of the winds. Warm clothes turned out to be necessary! I took a windbreaker and, just in case, a woolen jacket - it didn’t help. When I went the second time, I also grabbed a woolen sheepskin coat (there is still snow in Moscow at this time of year.) But it didn’t help much either. The wind was piercing.

Here, not yet at the highest accessible altitude, you understand what it means to “live like on a volcano.” It is clear that in the mountains the weather changes every five minutes, but here... Every 5 seconds! Clouds fly with monstrous speed, covering the top of the crater, which I have to climb, it becomes suddenly cold, the wind knocks me down and chills me to the bone. A minute later the cloud is already far away, the sun is blazing with all its rays, I unbutton my jacket, sweater, and take off my gloves. But the next cloud is already floating out from behind the top, just as swift as the previous one. The wind is so strong that people crouch down, afraid to fly away, and grab each other and the protruding stones.

The mountain is dotted with craters. One of them is Selivestre. It opened, erupted in 1979 and died out. Now crowds of tourists crawl along its top. The lifelessness of the earth is striking and surprising. Such Martian landscape, the air is about to be turned off. There, at an altitude of 1900 m, everything is completely covered with lava, and there is no hope that someday it will be as green as half a kilometer below. Vegetation begins to emerge after 5-10 years, at best, but Etna erupts every 2-3 years.

Below, in the valley, where the greenery is rampant, these dead lava flows seem even more absurd among all the delight of life that surrounds them. At this altitude, even houses are not insured - the risk is too great, but those lower in the valley are required. Scientists have long learned to predict eruptions, and after the mandatory evacuation of the population, even if nothing happened, money is paid for the disturbance caused.

The second time the weather was clear. I take the cable car up to 2500 m, from there in special jeeps along a road dug by graders in a huge snowdrift (3-4 m high) we gain a height of almost 3000 m. We drive slowly, the speed is 20 kilometers, I look out the window at the land striped like a zebra: everything - After all, it’s already spring, black clearings are visible more and more often. Along the snow-covered peak we go to the not yet completely closed crater, which erupted in 2002-2003. And again in contrast: just a couple of hours ago I was walking barefoot on the green grass, and here winter freshness is creeping through the soles of summer boots. The eruption lasted 3 months, the lava moved from average speed several hundred m/hour, i.e. You can run away if you want. Of the five craters that erupted then, one remains not completely closed, it “breathes,” i.e. releases warm vapors (they say they are very useful). I put my hands on the stones, they are covered with sweat in a matter of seconds. There is less wind here and it is completely warm. As soon as you rise to the top of the crater, you feel as if the wind is deliberately blowing you down. I observe something ominous in all this brown-black mass, which covered everything around in a thick layer.

On the adjacent closed crater, the edges are swept with sulfur. The eyes stop with pleasure on the yellow-green spots. The upper part of the body is frozen from the piercing wind, and the legs feel the rising warmth from the ground. The lifelessness of the landscape kills; there are three colors in the eyes all the time: black-brown earth, bright blue sky and white snow and clouds. My thoughts revolve around the vanity and pettiness of my aspirations. Still, it was not by chance that the gods chose this monastery for themselves. It seems as if the clouds could be parted with your hands, and all of Sicily is at your fingertips.

The contrast is especially noticeable in Zanferrino, where the experiment was carried out in 1993, and is now passed off as a legend. It was decided to dig a hole in the dense stream that was approaching this town and divert the main mass to the side where no one lived. Two explosions and lava flowed down given direction, but still 30% of the flow went its own way. The miracle is that he stopped 2 meters before a residential building!! In front of this house there is an image of the Virgin Mary, so tourists are told that the Virgin Mary performed a miracle and the flow stopped. So be it. Although, indeed, there is such a place (I can’t remember the name) where a lava flow hangs over the altar of the Virgin Mary, forming a niche. It is very strange to observe such a monstrous combination. After all, everything around is surrounded by greenery, the most diverse - flowers, trees, and shrubs. And even the vineyards here are gorgeous, despite the rocky soil. The earth is very fertile, because lava contains the entire periodic table. The grapes turn out to be very tasty and tart.

If you go up the path from this very house, and then go to the one to the left, from there an amazing view opens up: from the saddle between two peaks, solidified lava flows out in a porous stream, a lifeless mass that turns black and glitters in the sun, it fills the entire central part of the opening landscape, and around, as if for balance, gorse is blooming, some kind of white-yellow shrub, scattering its panicles over the neighboring wide leaves of agave, prickly pear, bindweed, timothy, saxifrage, something purple, pinkish. Butterflies fly above all this luxury, green lizards, which are also in abundance here, bask between the grasses and on the stones, the birds do not stop talking for a minute. And out of the corner of my eye I notice that in the middle of this stream, which reached 25 m in height, hidden was the roof of a tiny hut. I saw something similar above, where among the black earth (nothing grows there anymore), the lava-filled roof of a house can be seen. Now they offer excursions here. The phenomenon is truly amazing.

It's wonderful to stay in this place. As soon as they leave tourist buses- silence and grace. Climb a little higher, lay out your lunch on a boulder, and enjoy a picnic in a cozy clearing accompanied by the trills of birds. Take a walk, breathe in the air dense from the varied blooms, find out what is there in the saddle, walk along this black stream - where else will you see this?!

Going down to the sea, we pass San Verina, which suffered more from the earthquake that preceded the eruption. Front part cathedral supported by a special iron structure. The cathedral seemed to split in two, if not for the support, the walls, like shells, would have fallen apart in different directions.

About daily matters

The cost of a lift ticket consists of several components: cable car + jeep + guide. I didn’t have time to think, because... Those who wanted to climb to the top from my group had already left, and they gave me 2 hours to do everything about everything (!!!). Without understanding it, I bought it at full price. However, for tourists who are curious and not lazy, traveling independently and not in a particular hurry, it is reasonable to pay for the cable car ride, and cover the next 400m (heights, not roads) on foot (this, by the way, was done by many, including pensioners) . The road, of course, is not the most beautiful or easiest, but the sensations, I’m sure, are unforgettable! The guide didn't really help me at all, because... The English speaker had just left with a mini-group to explore the crater, there was no way to catch up with him, and my mini-group was given an Italian and a Frenchman to choose from. Still, I understand more French than Italian, but not enough to perceive the complete picture. In general, the story was about how many times the volcano has erupted throughout history, that Etna is one of the 10 constantly active volcanoes on our planet (3-4 days before departure, the volcano began to smoke. I was a little scared and a little happy - to see an eruption - wow! But the guides explained that this happens to it often), that the geothermal step is only 70 cm and other technical details that you can read about in encyclopedias. Many tourists in special equipment (by the way, warm clothes and comfortable shoes can be rented - 1.5 euros per item) overcome the climb without going out on the road. First along lava hills, then along snow-covered valleys, they go to the top. It seems like a monotonous activity, but you feel like the ruler of the world. Etna is the most high point in Europe (3340 m). There, at the top, you feel strength, human power, unity with nature. The air is wonderful! Transparent and clean! You look from there, from above, and it seems that the whole world is spread out at your feet. The gods really do live here.

A trip to the volcano was one of the most important points when planning Sicily. Before day X, we knew practically nothing and relied on local information centers. And if we had all the information that I’m going to tell you now, the trip would be even more comfortable. If you don’t know Italian/English, be as prepared as possible, a trip to the volcano is not a walk around the city. Although the volcano is not as scary as it seems at first glance (it doesn’t seem that way to me at all, I love volcanoes). In general, enough words, let’s tell and show..

Etna - the active and most big volcano Europe, and to be more precise, it is a stratovolcano (a type of volcano that has a conical shape and is composed of many hardened layers of lava, tephra and volcanic ash). Its height constantly fluctuates (due to eruptions), now it is about 3429 m above sea level. The last time the volcano erupted was in February 2017, i.e. quite recently (eruptions have occurred almost every year since the 2000s).

In addition to the main crater, Etna has 300-400 side craters. After the eruption ends, the solidified lava forms a strong plug in the crater, through which a new lava flow cannot break through during subsequent eruptions. When new eruptions occur, it is easier for it to form a crater in a new place, free from solidified lava.


Theoretically, you can climb Etna from any direction, but in practice there are 3 options.

  • Southern (Italian: Etna Sud) passes through the base of Rifugio Sapienza (1900 meters), where a regular train goes from Catania via Nicolosi once a day shuttle bus. That's how we got there too! The bus departs from central station Rides once a day 8.15 , return flight (also once a day) from Rifugio Sapienza to Catania in 16.30 (except some holidays), in general, do not be late. Company buses AST(www.aziendasicilianatrasporti.it), return ticket 6.60 €, which is very cheap, I’ll tell you why below. I highly recommend that you come early and take a sort of queue; in general, be prepared for the fact that not everyone may leave! Sometimes they give a second bus so that everyone can fit in, but you shouldn’t count on it. Next is the cable car, which I will tell you about below!
  • Oriental The route goes through the village of Zafferana Etna and also leads to Rifugio Sapienza at 1,900 m.
  • Northern The route (Italian: Etna Nord) passes through the cities of Piedimonte Etneo and Linguaglossa and leads to the base of Piano Provenzana. There is no cable car there.


So from Rifugio Sapienza (where the bus took us) to La Montagnola (altitude 2500 meters) there is cable car(a round trip ticket costs 30 €), then you can take an excursion on specially equipped all-wheel drive SUV buses(price 24 €).

Ticket for the ascent from Rifugio Sapienza to 3000 meters (cable car + SUV bus) - 63 €. This includes a 35-minute excursion with a guide (you cannot do without one). If you make a full ascent (then you most likely will not have time to get to the bus at 16, keep this in mind, then just look for a ride if you are not by car).

If you don't want to go from the bus station, there are other options, but they are much more expensive. A guided tour costs from 50€. Tours with private travelers and small travel companies (their advertisements are available at hotel receptions) - on average from 50 € per person (typical tour program for 40-50 € per person: pickup from the hotel, arrival at Rifugio Sapienza, walk, demonstration of a small lava grotto, stop at a local food store, return to the hotel). Those. this price does not include climbing cable car and so on, which in my opinion is almost meaningless!

And now a little in pictures.

Upon arrival at Rifugio Sapienza, you find yourself on the lowest and oldest craters.



For example, the Silvestri craters erupted in 1892 (the eruption lasted 173 days!). We did not climb to them, since it is not very easy (+ incredibly strong wind).


It’s no longer hot here in September, and it’s worth bringing a warmer jacket; if you climb even higher, don’t forget a jacket, hat and long pants (if you can rent a jacket for a couple of euros).


There is a crater below, people have placed pebbles in circles.


The little dots in the photo are people.


Two more small craters are visible here.


Well, we went higher, along the cable car. I want to say one thing, I saw that many people climb on foot to save money, but this is a bad idea. Anyone who has climbed a mountain knows how difficult it is, just imagine the still dry thin air (this is not a coniferous forest) and a strong wind that blows you off your feet (there is a video at the end in the link) - the climb is about 500-600 meters! The savings are not worth it!

The second climbing point is La Montagnola (altitude 2500m). It’s already quite cold here, about 10 degrees.


But look how incredible the landscapes are here...


But these are the same SUVs that will take you even higher. Unfortunately, we didn’t go, because of bad weather, we decided that nothing would be visible, besides, the main crater is out of reach, that is, you can look at it from the side, they don’t let you get close to it. Although they say that private guides lead, but you understand at your own peril and risk, it’s up to everyone to decide..


We decided to walk a little. As you can see in the photo there is fog and you can’t see anything further than the cars..


And we go where people go...


Lava flowed through this depression... By the way, the lava at Etna is very slow, they say you can run away from it)



Video from the volcano in my Instagram


But that winding path leads even higher, but we will definitely return and visit the main crater (or look at it)


What other advice can I give:

  • On the lower level in Rifugio Sapienza, there are many shops, be sure to stop by to buy lava stone figurines or goodies grown on the slopes of Etna as souvenirs (prices are the same as in Catania, if not better).
  • As souvenirs, I found beautiful pieces of lava with multi-colored salt (they didn’t pick it up at the airport), the most important thing is not to get them wet, the salt melts (On this photo pink). They cost about 2 € in one of the houses not far from the place where the bus drops off.
  • Try Honey with Propolis, it is sold in machines - incredibly tasty, you will not find it anywhere else in Sicily.
  • Pistachio oil, you can buy it everywhere in Sicily, but here I found it especially tasty) The main thing is not to forget to try it at least once before leaving the island. Costs about 5-7 € (4-5 € is an excellent price for a 250 ml jar).
  • All products from Etna are incredibly tasty, as the soil is very fertile and rich in microelements, so there is an opportunity to try and buy - go for it!
  • When you ascend the cable car, touch the ground from time to time; in many places it is warm and even hot!
  • If you have nothing against alcohol, you can buy yourself or as a gift the 70-proof liqueur of the same name (it is in great demand among tourists)
  • In winter you can ski on Etna!

    • Here's something interesting:
    The smoke over Etna comes in three colors and all Sicilians know this from early childhood. Waking up in the morning, every resident of the island intuitively looks at the volcano. For a native Sicilian, a quick glance is enough to assess the situation. So, if white smoke still rises above the volcano, as usual, then everything is in order in Sicily, you can calmly go about your business and not worry about anything. If the smoke is red, then most likely an eruption is possible in the coming days or weeks, you need to be prepared. And the blue smoke means that it’s time to get off the island, or rather, immediately take your passport, money and valuables and go as far as possible from the volcano, if possible to the airport, to leave the island.

I think I’ve told you everything, if you have any questions, write, don’t forget to Like and share on social networks (if you liked it)!

Have a nice day and see you soon))!

A couple of months ago, when we already knew for sure that we were flying to Sicily on vacation, I became “sick” about climbing Etna. Not like what is offered to ordinary tourists - funicular plus passable bus, and the present, on foot.
I scoured the Internet in search of reports about such an experience, but out of a dozen found, there was only one where the person said that he went up and down on foot. The only details listed were the murdered sneakers for 400 euros. All the rest were standard - cable car, jeeps, craters with a guide. For about a month I walked uphill on a treadmill with a maximum incline of 18%, and the more I walked, the more I realized that I couldn’t handle it, I didn’t have enough heart to climb 7 kilometers, 2 of which were very difficult.
There are more than 30 photos along the slope and details of the ascent. I hope that someone who is planning to climb on foot will find it easy to find this post in the ocean of information.

So, on July 7, 2016, 6 a.m. Roman time, we leave Palermo and in a Peugeot 208 rental car we move further and further from the sea, deeper into the island. The sun is hiding behind the road signs, the unknown lies ahead, and I really want to sleep.

The path itself is quite interesting, but there is no point in describing it, I’m just writing that two hours after leaving we saw the goal of our journey: a mountain with a barely noticeable white (this is important) haze. As the smoke turns black, locals pack their bags and children skip school. All the foothills are buried in yellow flowering bushes with the smell of our action from the romance about fragrant grapes.

We drove through several towns with very steep descents and ascents, which were not the most pleasant experience to overcome with a mechanic on slippery cobblestones.
Then we drove to Etna itself, which is vehicular up to 1900 meters above sea level, but very steep and serpentine. We stopped just to catch our breath after the steep slides.
Driver and car. I really like the driver, but I absolutely don’t like the car.

But aside from the lyrics. At 1900 meters on Etna there is the base of Rifugio Sapienza, from which there is a funicular. There are several hotels, restaurants, shops, parking, tourist buses come here and the road for ordinary cars ends here. Further - only SUVs and special passes.
This is what a man looks like when he came to conquer Etna. In the backpack there is water and sandwiches, sun cream. It’s still warm at the base, but not Sicilian-style, but rather St. Petersburg-style. We unexpectedly found free parking, and it was written: Free Parking.

We started straight from the parking lot, without entering the funicular. Below is the base, under your feet there is dry black ash, in which your foot sometimes sinks up to your ankle.

First we walk along the cable car and, judging by the exclamations from the booths, we arouse keen interest from tourists. As you can see, there is almost no vegetation anymore.

The sun is hot, the wind is freezing, the climbs are getting steeper, the going is getting more and more difficult. The end and edge of the cable car that we are focusing on is not visible.

We take breaks, sit for 10-15 minutes, eat oranges. Then we move on. At that moment I felt terribly uncomfortable for dragging us into this difficult event, but my husband doesn’t complain at all, and I’m going too.

Below there are craters from the eruption of the late 19th century, they are called Sylvesters. You can approach them from Rifugio, without any lifts. They say that many are satisfied with this.

At first we walked just the two of us, but soon a young man caught up with us. He climbed alone. It seemed to me that she was a tourist who traveled without money - she even ate her own food in a cafe. We also periodically saw a cheerful guy in a bright jacket, who first ran back and forth in circles, and then at cruising speed overtook us on the steepest climb. I didn’t have time to ask his coach’s phone number - it was the third hour of climbing, and we even had difficulty talking.
For the climb, Stas bought new unbranded sneakers with thick soles, and I decided to finish off the Pumov sneakers. The sneakers decided to die almost immediately - their soles began to come off. It’s not like I’d worn them for very long before, so the behavior of the sneakers outraged me. It would be stupid to somehow end up on Etna barefoot. So, just in case, I found a string to tie up my shoes, but, fortunately, I didn’t have to, the sneaker held up and didn’t fall apart.

But then the climb ended, we reached the base of La Montagnola, altitude 2500, at which the cable car ends its course and another technique begins.
This is a grader that clears the way for all-wheel drive vehicles. As you can see in the photo, three hours of climbing were in vain - I’m cheerful again and ready to take photos.

These are the buses that pick people up from La Montagnola.
This is Iveco

And this is a Mercedes Unimog. They say they were developed specifically for Etna. The cable car goes through the steepest part of the route, and for the next 5 kilometers there is a completely cleared path for buses.
A ticket for the cable car + rogue + guide services on the crater costs 62 euros per person in both directions. The high price is due to high risks (Etna often riots and destroys the cable car, which no one insures, of course, because no one is foolish).

There is still civilization in La Montagnola, they sell souvenirs and special liqueurs, rent warm clothes, and have a cafe.
Coffee costs 3.5 euros.

We rested a bit and hit the road again. The road for off-road vehicles, although long (about 5 km), is quite accessible to pedestrians, so many people walk along it. Walking along the road itself is unbearable - it winds very much, you want to cut, but you have to cut along boulders, so we immediately went to the side.

I see the goal, I believe in myself, I don’t notice obstacles.

Not far from La Montagnola we saw a mountain where people were climbing. By that time I had already decided that I was tired, but I still climbed the mountain. It turned out that this was not a mountain, but an old crater, and quite a smoking one (semi-active).

We went down and hit the road again. The climbs are no longer steep, but persistent, and I often ask to stop to calm my heart rate. My husband stops without question, we eat an orange or drink water, and then we go again. People pass by, a lot of them, with children, some in flip-flops and shorts. But I’m already cold, the piercing wind and sudden cloudiness really cool down the hotheads.

The clouds (yes, we are already in the clouds) are so thick that people disappear into them like hedgehogs.

Whether long or short, we saw the Unimog again, which means the end of our ascent is near.

When I thought about where we actually needed to go, my goal was to see smoke in the craters and snow.
Here you go, snow in July in Italy. Lying on the hot ground.

I was happy and started making snowballs.

We arrived at the place where the Unimogs bring people, altitude 2900. Here they are met by alpine guides, included in the ticket price, and taken to the craters. It seemed impossible without guides, but we arrived when the next group arrived and they accepted us as one of their own.

Access to the uppermost crater is prohibited. People are still leaking in, but we didn’t need to go there, and we didn’t want any problems with security. You can clearly see what the grader is used to make the way for the Unimogs.

Two craters nearby, blazing with heat and sulfur smoke. Fences so that the most awkward ones don’t turn into boiled ones.
Smells intensely of sulfur.



Ferro - said the guide. Iron, that is. We quickly got bored with the excursion, we broke off and went for a walk on our own.

We sat in the icy wind and hot ground.
We boiled seagulls on a volcano (not kidding).

We tried the branded liqueur Flame of Etna, purchased at the base. It's 70 degrees, and I don't drink alcohol. A couple of sips - and inside is your own volcano.
However, we didn’t get carried away because it was a long time ago.

I picked up a couple of pieces of solidified lava, popularly known as pumice and a piece of sulfur, from the ground as a souvenir.

Oddly enough, there are a lot of living creatures on Etna - non-biting, but annoying midges and ladybugs. What they eat there - without the slightest idea.

The way back to the cable car is quite simple, I just went down, like on skis.

And from the cable car down it’s already hard. In the morning we climbed this distance for three hours, in the evening we descended for an hour, but it was a serious test for my knees and for us in general. But the views are the kind you can’t photograph from a cable car cabin.

And now the Sylvesters appeared.

I must say that we were still only so-so prepared for this trip. After the descent, we decided not to return to Palermo, because the road is long, and tomorrow we will go almost here again, to the Al Kantara gorge, but we forgot to book our accommodation for the night. Hotels on Rifugio Sapienza were offered too expensive, and besides, I couldn’t stay on Etna any longer - the smell was already reigning at the base yellow flowers, and it began to cause coughing fits.
So we found accommodation for the night along the way. We saw the sign B&B, stopped and rang the doorbell. The owner did not respond, but caring neighbors found her and brought her to us. She didn't speak English, but she called her daughter and gave me the phone. It turned out that part of the residential building was given over to a very good and clean hotel, the rooms have everything (except for a corkscrew). They allowed us to drive the car into the yard and told us where the store was. In a tiny market with an invariable old lady as a living installation (they love to hang out there), we found everything that living people need: wine, peaches, a pack of sausages, cheese. We had Parmesan, bread and Parma with us.
True, the wine had to be opened with a screw and a wrench, but these, as you understand, are already insignificant details. The photo shows a balcony in the room with a view of the mountains.
After the climb, my muscles hurt for no more than a day, my knees seemed to hold up too, in general, I’m happy.