The city of Khujand is located in the north of Tajikistan, in the picturesque valley of the Syrdarya River. Modern Khujand is the largest cultural and industrial center of Northern Tajikistan. In addition, it is considered the second largest in the republic in terms of population.

Khujand is the most ancient city of Tajikistan. According to historical data, it was founded during the time of Alexander the Great, approximately 2500 years ago. Now, this cozy city with many parks and squares, very hospitable residents. The Syr Darya, a river flowing through the city center, is considered a great place for relaxation and swimming. By the way, Khujand is the only city built on this river.

The main attraction of Khujand is the city bazaar Panchshanbe - this is one of the most famous and large indoor markets in Central Asia. Translated from Tajik, “panchshanbe” means Thursday; it was on this day that the busiest trade used to be. Next to the bazaar there is a magnificent architectural monument - the mosque-mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin. Guests of Khujand can visit the city park named after. Kamola Khujandi and the fortress located next to it. On its territory there is famous Museum archeology.

Coordinates: 40.29000200,69.63300700

Khujand fortress

The Khujand fortress is a historical and architectural landmark of the city of Khujand, associated with the liberation struggle of the Tajik people under the leadership of commander Temurmalik. According to data received from the North Tajik Archaeological Complex Expedition, the fortress was part of the city’s fortification system and was built in the 6th-5th centuries BC.

During the invasion of Genghis Khan, about 25,000 soldiers were sent to besiege the city, as well as 50,000 Central Asian prisoners. The courageous defense of the Khujand fortress, as well as the island located nearby, constitutes one of the most striking pages in the history of the struggle of the people of Tajikistan.

In the VI-VII centuries, a new one was built on the site of the ancient Khujand fortress; it was considered one of the most fortified in Central Asia. At the beginning of the 15th century, the citadel was completely destroyed as a result of the Mongol invasion and lay in ruins for a long time. According to historical data, it was restored at the end of the 16th century and was the residence of a wealthy local ruler.

Currently it has been completely restored and is located here Historical Museum Sogd Region.

Coordinates: 40.28516100,69.61847300

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Masjidi Jami Mosque

One of the many attractions of the Tajik city of Khujand is the beautiful cathedral Masjidi Jami Mosque, built in 1512-1513. This building is an excellent example of the interpenetration of the construction culture of Central Asia and decorative art. Tourists are impressed by the local openwork 30-column aivan - a vaulted room surrounded by a wall on both sides. It adjoins the eastern wall of the mosque, its two middle columns are decorated with carvings, some of them have remains of painting.

The walls of Masjidi Jami are covered with beautiful carved decorations, mainly geometric motifs. The doors of the winter hall of the mosque are also distinguished by fine, elegant carvings. In the north-eastern part of the monastery there is a traditional minaret with a wonderful domed lantern and arched openings from which a beautiful panorama of the city opens. In general, the mosque has a surprisingly harmonious image, which fits perfectly with the nearby buildings of Panjshanbe Square.

Coordinates: 40.27883000,69.63037700

The deep Syrdarya River is the first longest and second deepest river in Central Asia, which flows 105 kilometers in the north of Tajikistan. It is formed by the confluence of the Naryn and Karadarya rivers in the east of the Fergana Valley.

The Syrdarya River crosses Tajikistan in the north, flowing through Osh, Sughd regions and the administrative center of the second of them - the city of Khujand. The river flows through the Fergana Valley, the Farhad Mountains and the Hungry Steppe. Its waters are replenished by the rivers Angren, Chirchik, Keles and Arys. Currently, the Syrdarya River flows into the northern section of the former Aral Sea, which is now called the “Small Sea”. Today, the waters of the Syrdarya River are used for economic needs, and therefore, the volume of flow at the mouth of the river has decreased by more than 10 times over 50 years. The beauty and mystery of the Syrdarya River captivates more and more adventurers every year.

Coordinates: 40.20929400,69.39926100

West of the Fergana depression

The west of the Fergana depression is one of the most picturesque places in the Khodzhekent region in Tajikistan, which is located along the tectonic depression of the Tien Shan mountain range in the middle reaches of the Syrdarya River.

The Fergana depression is located between the Kurama ridge, the Mogoltau mountains and the Chatkal mountain range. On the territory of Tajikistan, only its western part is located, in comparison with the entire valley, it is small in area. The only exit from it is located in the Khodzhekent region of the Republic of Tajikistan - the so-called “Bekabad Gate”, 20 meters wide. An interesting place in the west of the Fergana Depression is the Hungry Steppe, which received its terrifying name due to the lack of water and any living conditions on its territory. The absolute height of the valley in the country is 250-300 meters. The west of the Fergana Depression amazes its visitors with an abundance of colors and magnificent landscapes.

Coordinates: 39.48708500,69.09130100

Republican Museum of History and Local Lore named after. Abu Abdallah Rudaki

The Republican Museum of History and Local Lore was opened in 1958. in honor of the talented classic of Tajik-Persian literature Abu Abdallah Jafar Rudaki, which is why the building bears his name. The museum was built according to the design of the famous architect A.I. Makukha, the entrance doors for it were created by the Honored Artist Barotbek Yuldoshbekov. Here is a collection of items related to archeology, history, culture, life and customs, and the nature of Tajikistan.

The Abu Abdallah Rudaki Museum is located in the north of the city of Penjikent, on the street of the same name. The building contains eight halls, each of which reflects a separate page in the country’s history. The first three halls relate to the history of the city of Sarazm, ancient Penjikent and the Samanid state. In the following rooms you can get acquainted with ethnography, nature, and learn about the modern period of development of Tajikistan. The museum also has a separate room where interesting information about the life of Abu Abdallah Rudaki is collected. The labeling in the museum is presented in three languages ​​- Tajik, Russian and English.

Coordinates: 39.49518000,67.59638800

Museum of History and Local Lore" of archeology and fortification

The Khujand Historical and Local Lore Museum, dedicated to archeology and fortification, is the heart of the city. It was opened on November 29, 1986 in honor of the 2500th anniversary of Khujand. The museum building is located in the eastern part of the old Khujand fortress of the 8th-10th centuries, which was restored in 1999. Once upon a time, the walls of the fortress were part of the powerful fortification system of the city.

Externally, the museum imitates the appearance of a medieval building with thick walls made of mud brick and high towers. Inside, in a room of 150 square meters, there are halls of the medieval history of the city, the architectural features of the buildings in it, the history of the study of Khujand and its researchers. The most valuable finds that occupy pride of place in the exhibition are ceramics from the ancient and medieval periods. It is also interesting to look at the many maps and plans of Khujand from different eras. In total, the museum has more than 1200 exhibits.

The museum is hospitably open from 8.00 to 17.00 every day, on weekends it is open from 9.00 to 16.00.

Coordinates: 40.28476400,69.63301100

Historical and Local Lore Museum of Istaravshan

The Historical and Local Lore Museum in Istaravshan became an independent museum only in 1980; before that, it had functioned since 1963 as a branch of the Historical and Local Lore Museum of the city of Khujand. Currently, it displays more than 4,300 exhibits on the archeology and ethnography of the northern part of Tajikistan, most of them were collected in Istaravshan and its environs.

The museum is located in the building of an inactive Orthodox church, which was built in 1865-1867. The initiator of its opening was a history teacher, Nasriddin Nazarov, who collected the first collection for the museum in 1950-1960. The exhibition occupies an area of ​​about 250 square meters; it contains information about the ancient and medieval history of the city, its culture, crafts and traditional occupations of the city residents - blacksmithing, jewelry, gold embroidery, wood carving.

On weekdays, the museum in Istravshan is open from 8.00 to 17.00, opening hours on weekends: from 9.00 to 16.00. Monday is a day off. Label in Tajik and English.

Coordinates: 39.91083300,69.00638900

Madrasah and mausoleum of Sheikh Massala

Madrasah and mausoleum of Sheikh Massala is an architectural ensemble that consists of a 19th century minaret, a mosque and ancient burial grounds. This memorial ensemble is located in the historical part of the city of Khujand and was erected on the grave of Sheikh Massal Muslihiddin.

The madrasah and mausoleum of Sheikh Massala is a famous monument in Tajikistan. According to legend, the sheikh was originally buried in the small village of Undzhi. However, in the 12th century, his admirers decided to transfer his ashes to Khujand and erect a mausoleum. At that time, the mausoleum was a small burial chamber built of baked brick. This tomb was destroyed during the Mongol invasion. Later, in the 14th century, they decided to rebuild the mausoleum, but at the same time change the layout slightly. Now it began to look like a complex consisting of two rooms, but, alas, this building was destroyed.

In the 16th century, a structure was erected on the ruins of an old building, which became not just a burial place, but also a room for performing ritual ceremonies and prayers. Today, the mausoleum of Sheikh Massala consists of a minaret and a mosque. The modern building is two-story, has a wide dome and a portal entrance. In the center there is a tomb, a hall of remembrance, as well as a wooden tombstone, decorated with carvings with plant elements and inlays.

Coordinates: 40.28041000,69.63074000

The most popular attractions in Khujand with descriptions and photographs for every taste. Choose best places for visiting famous places Khujand on our website.

Khujand (sometimes transliterated as Khojent, Khujand) is an ancient city in the northern part of Tajikistan, the administrative center of the Sughd region (formerly called Leninabad), in Soviet times from 1936 to 1991. It was called Leninabad. The second largest city in Tajikistan after Dushanbe, the most important transport hub, as well as the political, economic, cultural and scientific center of the country.

The history of the city goes back to ancient times. Modern historical science believes that archaic Khujand existed during the Achaemenid dynasty, that is, before the troops of Alexander the Great arrived on the banks of the Syr Darya. Having captured the city, they fortified it, calling it Alexandria Eskhata (Extreme).

In subsequent periods, Khujand more than once had to find itself in the center historical events. In the 8th century it was captured by the Arabs in the 13th century. the city offered fierce resistance to the Mongol invaders, temporarily delaying the advance of Genghis Khan's hordes to the west.

Since ancient times, Khujand, being at the crossroads of trade routes of the East, was one of the most important economic, military-strategic and cultural centers of Transoxiana. The Great Silk Road passed through it, connecting ancient Greece, Rome, Asia Minor, Egypt, Iran with India, China and Japan. Khujand was the birthplace of famous astronomers, mathematicians, doctors, historians, poets, and musicians. One of them is Abumakhmud Khujandi, the founder of the local astronomical school, an outstanding authority in world science. In the 14th century, Kamoli Khujandi, the author of the famous gazelles, was called the “Nightingale of Khujand”. Equally popular in the Middle Ages was the outstanding poetess, musician and dancer Mahasti. In the 19th century, cultural figures such as Toshkhoja Asiri, Sodirkhon Hafiz, and Khoja Yusuf carried out active educational work in Khujand.

On May 24, 1866, the city was occupied by the Russian army and became part of the Russian Empire. The entry into the empire of the center of a densely populated district with rich economic resources, the most important road junction between the Fergana Valley, the Tashkent oasis and the Zeravshan Valley, a large trading point, opened up new opportunities for the development of Khujand. In July 1916, Khujand was the first among the cities of Central Asia to openly oppose the colonial policy of tsarism, which tried to attract Tajiks, along with other peoples of the region, to participate in the First World War (Central Asian Uprising of 1916).

At the beginning of 1918, Soviet power was established in the city; on October 2, 1929, it was included in the Tajik SSR. During the years of Soviet construction in the city, which now bore the name Leninabad, enormous changes took place in all areas of economic, social and cultural life. In the post-war period, Khujand became the largest industrial and Cultural Center Tajikistan. The city's industry has become diversified, equipped with advanced domestic and foreign technology. The pride of Khujand residents is one of the largest enterprises in the republic - the silk factory. In 1991, dozens of enterprises in Khujand produced the same amount of industrial products per day as in the entire pre-revolutionary Tajikistan in a year. The industrial products of Khujand people were known far beyond the borders of our homeland. Only silk factory fabrics were sent to 450 cities of the USSR and to foreign countries. Since the 60s, Khujand has been actively expanding its borders. The city stepped onto the right bank of the Syr Darya, throwing two bridges across it. During the years of Soviet power, radical changes took place in the field of healthcare. By 1991, there were 40 medical and preventive institutions in Khujand, employing about 2.5 thousand doctors and specialists with higher and secondary medical degrees. education. Major changes have occurred in the field of public education. In 1991, there were 30 schools in Khujand, attended by about 30 thousand students.

In 1932, the Pedagogical Institute was opened in Khujand, where there were only 26 students. Today, more than 10 thousand students study at 13 faculties of this university, which was transformed into Khujand State University in 1991. During the post-war decades, literature and art reached a new peak in Khujand, a whole galaxy of poets and writers, artists and composers, and folk craftsmen grew up. Khujand became more and more beautiful, acquiring the appearance of a large, industrially developed city. In 1986, it celebrated its anniversary - the 2500th anniversary of its foundation. In connection with this Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, the city was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples.

The role and weight of ancient Khujand increased even more during the period of sovereign development of Tajikistan. It was here that the most important step was taken towards ending the fratricidal war and achieving national harmony on Tajik soil: the XVI session of the Supreme Council, held in Khujand in November 1992, restored the constitutional order in the republic and promoted a new leader to the political arena - E. Sh. Rakhmonov .

Khujand lies majestically in the picturesque floodplain of the Syrdarya River at an altitude of more than three hundred meters above sea level. Today Khujand is the largest industrial and cultural center of Northern Tajikistan and the second most important city in the republic. The geographical location and climatic conditions of Khujand are truly beneficial. That is why the Fergana Valley, where it is located, is considered the pearl of Central Asia: Mountain landscape, the ever-flowing waters of the Syrdarya, clean air, green attire, an abundance of grapes, fruits and other gifts of nature make Khujand an eternally young garden city. Khujand is the administrative center of the Sughd region of the Republic of Tajikistan, the second city in the republic in terms of the number of inhabitants and the volume of industrial production. Located in the intermountain passage leading to the Fergana Valley, on the most important caravan trade route of Antiquity. The Syrdarya River flows within the city. From the city center to the railway station - 11 km, to Dushanbe - 341 km. Khujand is connected by railways, air and highways.

Monument to Kamol Khujandi
Installed in 1996 in honor of the 675th anniversary of the poet’s birth. Located on the Stars of Khujand square. The main idea is to convey his image as a thinker, philosopher and show him inner world. The background depicts wings, personifying the holiness of man and at the same time denoting the wings of inspiration of poetry. The poet's face is turned towards the place of his birth and towards the sunset. The height of the seated figure is 3.5 m, the wings are 5.5 m. The area occupied by the monument is 1000 square meters. m. In order to create the image of a strong man, spiritually rich, who has made many trips, the sculpture was deliberately created barefoot, since there are canons of sculpture about the beauty of the human body. Author: artist, sculptor K. N. Nadyrov. A similar monument by the same author was erected in 1997 in Tabriz at the poet’s burial site.

Khujand fortress
An integral part of the city's fortification system. Founded in the VI-V centuries. BC e. According to data obtained by the North Tajik Archaeological Complex Expedition (STAKE), the Khujand fortress was first surrounded by a rampart, and later by a wall of considerable thickness made of adobe. The city and the citadel - components of ancient Khujand, had separate fortress walls, surrounded by a wide and deep ditch filled with water. The remains of these fortifications were discovered under the central part of the left bank of Khujand and surround the territory ancient city with an area of ​​20 hectares.

With the development of the economy, trade, government system and population, the city grows. In the VI-VII centuries a new fortress was built. Medieval Khujand consisted of three main parts: the citadel, Shakhristan and Rabad. The citadel was located on the banks of the Syr Darya at the gates of Rabad. The medieval Khujand fortress was considered one of the most fortified in Central Asia.

During the invasion of Genghis Khan (1219-1220), a 25,000-strong army with 50,000 Central Asian captives was sent to besiege the city. The heroic defense of the Khujand fortress and the island located near it on the Syr Darya under the leadership of Timurmalik constitutes one of the brightest pages in the history of the liberation struggle of the Tajik people. As a result of the Mongol invasion, the Khujand fortress was destroyed. According to historian Khofiz Abru, at the beginning of the 15th century the fortress lay in ruins. According to Zakhiriddin Babur, already at the end of the 15th century the fortress was restored and became the residence of the local ruler.

Masjidi Jami Mosque
Sheikh Muslihiddin complex, a monument of folk architecture of the 16th century. Located on the western side of Panjshanbe Square. The facade of the building faces the street. Shark. The mosque was built in 1512-1513. The multi-columned (30 columns) iwan adjoins the eastern wall of the winter hall, also multi-columned (20 columns), and enters the courtyard of the mosque. The long southern wall of the mosque without any openings faces Sharq Street. Just to the right, on the edge of the wall, there is a darvoza-khona entrance device with a deep peshtak - a portal. The arrangement of columns in the mosque is subject to a modular grid: six rows of four columns (30 modular squares) are repeated on the ivan, and five rows of four columns are repeated in the winter room. The two middle columns on the northern facade of the ivan are decorated with carvings to the full height and carry an elevated part of the architrave with massive inlaid stalactites that preserve the remains of painting. At the entrance and above the mihrab, three plank squares of the ceiling are painted, but the paints have darkened greatly and some have crumbled. The walls are covered with good carved decoration, mostly geometric motifs. Both doors of the winter hall are distinguished by fine, elegant carvings. Structurally, the building is frame with adobe filling and subsequent plastering with ganch mortar. The spaces between the frame were used to create niches for the entrance and mihrab both in the winter hall and on the ivan. The roof of the mosque is flat earthen with clay and adobe coating. The foundation on which the walls of the building stand is made of burnt brick. The courtyard of the mosque from the east and partly to the north is limited by one-story hudjras. In the north-eastern part of the courtyard there is a minaret with a traditional lantern, decorated with arched openings, from where a beautiful panorama of the city opens up. Entrance portal facing the street. Shark is distinguished by tiled cladding and carved ganch panels on the façade. The high portal represents only a decorative front wall made of baked brick, complemented on the north side by two-story adobe buildings with a wooden ivan on top. The carved gates of the portal were made in 1513-1514. Mullah Mansur (painting), Usto Shamsidtsin (ganch carving) and others took part in the decorative decoration of the mosque. The mosque, in general, has a surprisingly harmonious image and is an excellent example of the synthesis of decorative art and construction culture of Khujand.

The country's second largest city, Khujand, is located. Along with Samarkand and Bukhara, this city was the center of culture and science in Central Asia. The settlement on the site of modern Khujand was founded during the time of King Kaykubod, who ruled in the 6th century BC. The city reached its peak under the Persian king Darius. After the conquest of Central Asia by Alexander the Great, the city received the name Alexandria Extreme. In terms of age, this city can compete with such great capitals of the world as Paris or Rome. In 1986, Khujand celebrated its 2500th anniversary.

Today Khujand is the largest industrial, transport, scientific and cultural center of Tajikistan. The city is home to the largest silk factory in the republic. In addition, the Khujand State University is located here, where more than 10,000 students study not only from Tajikistan, but also from neighboring countries.

Ancient Khujand is preferred by true connoisseurs of the history and culture of Central Asia.

Region
Tajikistan

Population

182,000 people (2012)

VII-VI centuries BC e.

Population density

63.8 people/km 2

Timezone

Postal code

International dialing code

Climate and weather

The formation of the climate of Khujand is greatly influenced by the South Caspian, Upper Amu Darya and Murghab cyclones, which determine the change in weather, its character and amount of precipitation.

average temperature air temperature in Khujand is approximately +16 °C. In summer the air warms up to +30 °C, and in winter the thermometer can drop to 0...-2 °C. The average annual precipitation is approximately 150 mm. Interestingly, there is uneven rainfall throughout the year. Precipitation occurs most often in March and April, and summers in Khujand are usually dry.

The best time to visit the magnificent Khujand is called April - June, when the air temperature reaches optimal values ​​for adaptation, and rare and short rains will not interfere with enjoying your vacation.

Nature

Majestic Khujand is located on the picturesque banks of the Syrdarya River. By the way, Khujand is the only city in Tajikistan that is located on a large river. Fergana Valley, where the city is located, is famous for its unique nature. From Khujand you can see and majestic mountains, and the serene waters of the Syr Darya, and abundantly flowering meadows near the city, and fertile vineyards. The city itself reminds forever green Garden, thanks to the numerous parks and squares that save citizens from the sultry heat in the summer.

The meadows of the Fergana Valley are covered with fragrant poppies, edelweiss and wild irises. Small rodents and marmots live here, which become prey for birds of prey(eagles, falcons). The waters of the Syrdarya River are rich in fish. Among the species common here are catfish, trout, marinka, grass carp.

Attractions

Ancient Khujand amazes with a huge number of well-preserved historical sights. Attracts the most attention Khujand fortress, which was considered the main component of the city’s fortification complex. The founding date of the fortress is considered to be the 5th century BC. Economic development and trade led to the expansion of the city. And already in the Middle Ages, the Khujan fortress was considered the most fortified in all of Central Asia. However, after the invasion of Genghis Khan and his troops, the most important defensive structure of Khujand was destroyed. According to historians, already at the end of the 15th century the Khujand fortress was restored and was used as the residence of local rulers.

For many Muslim pilgrims, the main attraction in the city is Masjidzhi Jami Mosque, built in 1512-1513. The unique tiled cladding of the facade, complemented by unique carved panels, attracts the eye.

From architectural monuments well preserved from the Middle Ages Mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin, whom locals consider the city's holy and spiritual patron.

On Star Square of Khujand located monument to the great poet of Tajikistan Kamol Khujandi, installed in 1996 in honor of the 675th anniversary of his birth.

You can get acquainted with the rich history and culture of ancient Khujand at the city museum, which presents an extensive exhibition of rare artifacts found in the city.

Nutrition

All tourists coming to Khujand can fully enjoy the unique cuisine of Tajikistan. The most popular establishments teahouse is considered a public catering establishment not only for foreign guests of the city, but also for local residents " Kamoli Khujandi", restaurant " Zaytun" and cafe " Khoni Khujand" Here the menu presents the most famous Tajik dishes, such as k abob, ugro-pilaf, shish kebab, cabbage rolls, kaurdak. In addition to popular meat dishes in Khujand, locals are very fond of fish dishes. They give their preference to fried or baked trout.

Of course, no feast is complete without traditional Tajik pastries. In city restaurants you can not only enjoy the great taste of brushwood, sambusa and various flatbreads, but also see the cooking process itself. Many tourists are indescribably delighted by such an entertaining spectacle.

Some foreign guests of Khujand will be very surprised when the dessert they ordered is brought not at the end of the meal, but at the very beginning. For the city, and Tajikistan as a whole, this is a tradition. Local residents are accustomed to consuming fruits, drinks and sweets both before and after meals. The most popular sweet in Khujand is halva. As a rule, only foreigners order it in restaurants. Local residents have already learned how to cook it at home.

Of course, in all restaurants and cafes in the city you can try the famous Tajik green tea, seasoned with milk, butter and salt. It is worth noting that foreign guests do not dare to drink such an exotic drink. They limit themselves to the usual tea brewed with clean water.

The prices in Khujand restaurants will pleasantly surprise you. In a small mid-level cafe, a hearty lunch will cost only $6. And for dinner and alcohol in a higher class restaurant you will have to pay from $10 to $15.

Accommodation

Hospitable Khujand offers a fairly wide selection of hotels where foreign citizens can stay. True, you won’t find upscale five-star hotels here. Many city guests decide to stay in hotels " Tawhid», « Vatan" And SUGD. These hotels correspond to 4 stars in terms of the level of service and quality of services provided. Guests are provided with spacious rooms equipped with all the necessary furniture and equipment for a comfortable stay. Each room has a separate bathroom, a set of upholstered furniture, television, and air conditioning. The cost of living in such hotels ranges from $100 to $150 per night.

Very popular among foreign tourists quite comfortable hostels and guesthouses are used. The rooms in such establishments look somewhat more modest than in previous hotels, but the cost of living in these hotels is much lower - from $30 to $50 per night. It is worth noting that before arriving in Khujand, you must find out in advance about the availability of cold water in hotels in the city, as well as the possibility of heating it. Many hotels cannot provide guests with tap water, and there is nothing to say about the presence of a boiler.

Entertainment and relaxation

The main type of entertainment in Khujand, many tourists who have visited there, call visiting the ancient buildings and structures of the city. In addition to historical attractions, travel companies in Khujand offer their clients several types of active tours. Near Khujand there is a famous Kairakkum reservoir, or the Tajik Sea, as the locals call it. Here you can go windsurfing, take a boat trip and a rowing boat. Many tourists are attracted by the rich fishing in the reservoir. The most honorable trophies here are trout and catfish.

Located near Khujand Ak-Su district, which is considered one of the most favorite places for climbers in all of Tajikistan.

Young people coming to amazing Khujand will be pleasantly surprised by the large number of nightlife establishments in the city, many of which are open until the morning. Here you can have a great time in restaurants, cafes, night bars and clubs.

Purchases

One of the main attractions of Khujand is the famous city bazaar " Panchshanbe", which is one of the largest indoor markets in Central Asia. The name of the market translates as “Thursday”. It is on this day, like many centuries ago, that large trade takes place. Only at this bazaar you can feel the full flavor of city life in Tajikistan. “Panchshanbe” attracts visitors with its colorfulness, unusual smells, and an abundance of various vegetables and fruits, which are sold all year round.

In addition, here you can buy such popular Tajik souvenirs as silk products, shawls, scarves, embroidery, and textiles. Traditionally, many tourists prefer luxurious silk-embroidered carpets, as well as items of national clothing (skullcaps, cotton robes, belts and dresses). Warm products made from the wool of Pamir yaks can be purchased both at the bazaar and in a specialized store in the city center. Of course, no real woman will pass by the original multi-tiered Tajik jewelry. Earrings, necklaces and bracelets are considered one of the most sold-out souvenirs. It is worth noting that all these souvenirs can be purchased not only at the Panjshanbe bazaar, but also in small trading tents scattered throughout the city.

Transport

Public transport in Khujand is represented only by minibuses. More recently, numerous bus and trolleybus routes were abolished due to severe deterioration of the rolling stock and very frequent power outages. The cost of a trip in a minibus taxi does not exceed $0.3, and a huge number of organized routes cover absolutely the entire city.

Foreigners prefer to use private taxis. The cost of one taxi trip is slightly higher than the price of tickets in public transport, however, the level of comfort is much higher. In Khujand, you can rent a car with a driver, who will be at your disposal all day for only $50.

Since Khujand is a major industrial center of Tajikistan, a railway was built here. It is worth noting that international Passenger Transportation to Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.

Near Khujand, just 11 kilometers, there is a large Khujand airport, which received international status. Flights to the cities of Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, China, Russia and other countries of the world are serviced by the state company Tajik Airlines. In addition to international flights, the company also provides domestic flights.

Connection

The communication system in Khujand today is quite poorly developed. Since Soviet times, old payphones have remained on the streets of the city, from which you can call another city in Tajikistan. To make an international call, you must contact the post office. The cost of one minute of such a call will cost approximately $1 if the conversation is organized with Asian countries or the United States. But for a call to the CIS countries you can pay only $0.3 per minute of conversation.

Recently, great popularity among local population Got cell phone service. True, the cost of services mobile operators Quite expensive in the city. A minute of conversation on a mobile phone exceeds $0.4, and the connection itself will cost about $20.

There are several large Internet cafes in Khujand, providing almost all existing network services. Interestingly, you can use the services of the World Wide Web for only $1 per hour. Large hotels and hotels in the city also provide Internet access.

Safety

The level of security in Khujand allows guests to feel calm and confident on the streets of the city. Serious offenses are practically never recorded in the city. But still local authorities Law enforcement officials strongly recommend not to go out on the city streets alone at night. In addition, the level of pickpocketing has recently increased. Therefore, when visiting crowded places, it is advisable to leave valuables and large sums of money at the hotel.

Doctors in Khujand advise boiling tap water before drinking. This warning is associated with increasing cases of cholera and dysentery. For the same reason, you should definitely thoroughly wash vegetables and fruits purchased at local markets and stores.

To enter Khujand, some mandatory vaccinations are required, as there are frequent cases of hepatitis A and E, cholera and diphtheria in the area.

Business climate

The large industrial center of Khujand is of great interest to foreign investors. Many businessmen see a lot of objects in the city that require significant investments. These can be both industrial enterprises and elements tourism infrastructure, which has become the object of close attention recently, when the interest of foreign tourists in the cultural and historical attractions of Khujand has sharply increased. It is worth noting that changes in legislative acts recently adopted by Parliament significantly simplify the opening of joint ventures in the country. In addition, tax rates for investors investing in the city's industry have been significantly reduced.

Real estate

A favorable geographical location, mild climate, rich history, and a huge number of cultural attractions make Khujand real estate very attractive for purchase by foreign citizens. Fortunately, in Tajikistan there are no special restrictions on the sale of housing to foreign residents. True, the cost of real estate in Khujand for citizens of other countries differs significantly from the price at which sales are carried out to local residents. For example, to purchase a small apartment you will have to prepare about $50,000. And housing in the suburbs of Khujand will cost about $35,000.

Today, there is a great demand for apartments in the rental housing market. In order to rent an apartment in Khujand for one month, you need to prepare about $500.

A safe and exciting holiday in Khujand requires foreign tourists to follow several important rules. As in any Muslim city, in Khujand it is necessary to adhere to basic moral standards. Public expressions of feelings, kissing, and inappropriate clothing will cause disapproval among the local population.

The purchase of souvenirs in Khujand must be accompanied by bargaining. Local residents love this process very much. They are even ready to provide significant discounts on their goods to those who bargain zealously. It is worth noting that payments for purchases are made only in the national currency - somoni. Foreign money must be exchanged at government exchange offices or at a bank branch. Be sure to remember that exporting minerals abroad gems, gold is possible only after obtaining a special permit and mandatory declaration. It is strictly forbidden to export somoni.

In every city of Tajikistan, including Khujand, you must register after arrival. Registration is carried out directly at the hotel. It is worth noting that most hotels charge a fee: for registration necessary documents you will be asked for $15.

For the football club, see Khujand (football club).

City
Taj. Khukand
40°17′ N. w. 69°37′ E. d.
A country
Region
Mayor Maruf Muhammadzoda
History and geography
Based VII-VI centuries BC e.
First mention 2nd half of the 7th century BC
Former names Alexandria Eskhata, until 1936 - Khojent
until 1991 - Leninabad
Square 285 km²
LUM height 300 m
Timezone UTC+5
Population
Population ▲ 181,600 people (2019)
Density 4540 people/km²
Agglomeration ▲ 931 900
(Khujand agglomeration)
Nationalities Tajiks, Uzbeks and others
Confessions Muslims, Christians
Katoykonim Khujandi
Official language [[Tajik language, Russian language]]
Digital IDs
Telephone code +992 3422
Postcode 735700
Other
Awards
khujand.tj

Arch at the park named after K. Khujandi

Fountains of Khujand

Khujand(Taj. Khukhand, from Sogd. kwc "nth ( xučant(a) > xuǰand ‘pleasant side’), pers. خجند ‎, Khojand, other Greek Ἀλεξάνδρεια Ἐσχάτη , Alexandria Eskhata) - a city in the north, the administrative center.

One of the oldest cities. The second largest city in Tajikistan, an important transport hub, political, economic, cultural and scientific center of the country.

There is an airport and a railway station (12 km from the center of Khujand, in the city of Gafurov).

Name

The modern Russian name of the city is , sometimes transliterated as Khojent or Khujand.

From the time of the Russian Empire until 1936, the name of the city was Taj. Khukand, (Persian خجند‎), in Russian it was customary to render as Khojent.

On January 10, 1936, the city was officially called Leninabad(in honor of V.I. Lenin), while in historical literature for the period until 1936 the spelling Khojent was preserved. Also, this spelling continued to be used in official practice in the name of the Khojent region of the Tajik SSR.

By Decree of the Supreme Council of the Tajik SSR No. 246 of February 26, 1991, the historical name was returned to the city .

Population

Khujand is the second most populous city in Tajikistan after. As of January 1, 2019, 181,600 people lived in it.

According to the 1897 census, 28,431 residents of the city indicated Tajik as their native language, 900 - Uzbek (305 of them - Sart dialect), 458 - Russian.

The population of the Khujand agglomeration is 916,200 people.

Geography

Syrdarya in Khujand

Khujand is located on the banks of the Syrdarya, below the Kairakkum reservoir, 35 km above the Uzbek reservoir, on the territory of the Fergana Valley, between the spurs of the Turkestan ridge in the south and the Mogoltau mountains in the north.

The city is located 200 km northeast of (by road - 300 km).

Climate

Quote from St. Petersburg Gazette, 1868 (No. 215, 219):

«… Khojent is located on the banks of the excellent, high-water Syrdarya and is surrounded on all sides by mountains, along the slopes of which there are green luxurious gardens, and all this together - water, mountains and vegetation in the summer, with the local heat and drought, gives the air favorable freshness and purity, and in winter it is moderate. ... Khojent is all surrounded by magnificent gardens, of which there are more here than in other areas of the region. All these orchards are fruit, the fruits grow here in amazing abundance and the surrounding cities are supplied with them...»

A steppe climate prevails in Khujand. There is little rainfall throughout the year. According to the Köppen climate classification, it is a dry semiarid climate of temperate latitudes with cool winters (BSk index). The average annual air temperature in Khujand is 16 °C.

The formation of the climate, including Khujand, is greatly influenced by the same air masses that invade the territory of Central Asia and determine the nature and change of weather. Precipitation in the Khujand region and throughout the Fergana Valley is mainly associated with cyclonic activity and the nature of the underlying surfaces.

The main role in precipitation is played by the South Caspian, Murghab and Upper Amu Darya cyclones, as well as cold air masses moving from the west, northwest and north. Reaching the frontal surface of the mountains, the incoming air masses rise along this surface, cool and receive an additional effect for the formation of clouds and precipitation. All these air masses invade the Fergana Valley from the west and southwest, but on their way they collide with the western and southwestern slopes of the mountain ranges of Northern Tajikistan and they receive more precipitation than the leeward slopes, intermountain valleys and basins. Thus, on the windward slopes of the Zeravshan, Turkestan and Kurama ranges, the amount of precipitation per year is more than 400-800 mm. This is confirmed by the fact that in winter a deep snow cover forms in these mountainous areas, which is associated with avalanches in the spring. As they move deeper into the mountainous country, these air masses reach inland areas that are greatly depleted in moisture, as a result of which intermountain valleys and deep basins receive very little precipitation. In Khujand, the annual amount of precipitation falls: in the cold season of the year 87 mm, and the greatest amount is in March and April (25-27 mm); the smallest in the summer months (9-11 mm, Aug.).

As a rule, precipitation in the form of snow falls only at negative temperatures. In the Khujand region, stable snow cover is absent in 20% of the winter, and in 3-10% of the winter it does not form at all. Here, the depth of snow cover only in February reaches an average of 1-3 cm, and is absent during the rest of the year. The highest ten-day depth of snow cover was observed in the third ten days of February - 47 cm. The average date of appearance of snow cover is December 15, and the earliest is October 31. The number of days with snow cover is 21.

Climate of Khujand
Index Jan. Feb. March Apr. May June July Aug. Sep. Oct. Nov. Dec. Year
Average maximum, °C 3,5 6,2 13,8 21,9 28,6 34,2 35,5 32,4 28,8 20,6 12,3 5,6 20,3
Average temperature, °C 0,6 3,0 9,2 16,8 21,9 26,8 28,6 26,4 21,5 14,6 7,6 2,5 15,0
Average minimum, °C −3,2 −1,8 4,2 10,7 15,6 19,6 21,2 18,8 13,6 8,1 3,4 −0,5 9,1
Precipitation rate, mm 15 15 25 27 20 9 4 1 3 15 16 17 167
Source: World Meteorological Organization,

Story

In ancient times

The Achaemenid Empire at its height

Alexander the Great's campaign in Asia

Khujand is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia: according to some sources, the foundation of the city dates back to the 7th-6th centuries BC. It was conquered by Alexander the Great, who rebuilt and fortified it, calling it Alexandria Eschata ( extreme).

Being on the Great Silk Road and connecting Samarkand with the Fergana Valley, Khujand had an advantageous geopolitical location and primary transport importance.

It was subsequently conquered by the Arabs (8th century), and in 1219-1220 it offered fierce resistance to the troops of Genghis Khan, but was destroyed.

However, the city was soon revived and became one of the largest commercial, cultural and scientific centers Central Asian region. And even today Khujand is an important industrial, scientific and cultural center of northern Tajikistan.

Since ancient times, Khujand, located at the crossroads of trade routes of the East, on the Great Silk Road, was one of the most important economic, military-strategic and cultural centers of Fararud.

Khujand was the birthplace of famous astronomers, mathematicians, doctors, historians, poets, and musicians. One of them is the founder of the local astronomical school, Abumakhmud Khujandi.

“The Nightingale of Khujand” was called Kamol Khujandi, the author of famous gazelles, in the 14th century. Equally popular in the Middle Ages was the outstanding poetess, musician and dancer Mahasti.

According to legend, it was in Khujand that the house of Khoja Nasreddin stood. In the 19th century, cultural figures such as Toshkhoja Asiri, Sodirkhon Hafiz, and Khoja Yusuf carried out active educational work in Khujand.

In the Russian Empire

On May 24, 1866, the city was occupied by the Russian army and became part of the Russian Empire (see Central Asian possessions of the Russian Empire). The entry into the empire of the center of a densely populated district with rich economic resources, the most important road junction between the Fergana Valley, the Tashkent oasis and the Zeravshan Valley, a large trading point, opened up new opportunities for the development of Khujand.

The city was administrative center Khojent district, Samarkand region.

In July 1916, the Central Asian uprising began in the city.

IN THE USSR

Streets of Khujand

At the beginning of 1918, Soviet power was established in the city; until 1929, the city was part of the Uzbek SSR. On October 2, 1929, it was included in the Tajik SSR, and on January 10, 1936, the city was renamed Leninabad(in honor of V.I. Lenin). In 1941, the Tajik Agricultural Institute was located in Leninabad, which was a university of the People's Commissariat of Agriculture of the USSR and had a postal address: Leninabad city, Krasnaya street, house No. 25.

In the post-war period, Leninabad became the largest industrial and cultural center of Tajikistan after Dushanbe. The city's industry became diversified, equipped with advanced domestic and foreign technology; a silk factory, one of the largest enterprises in the republic, operated in the city. In 1991, dozens of enterprises in the city produced as much industrial output per day as in the entire pre-revolutionary Tajikistan in a year. The silk factory's fabrics were sent to 450 cities of the USSR and to foreign countries.

Palace of Culture Arbob

Since the 1960s, Leninabad has been actively expanding its borders. The city stepped onto the right bank of the Syr Darya, throwing two bridges across it.

In 1970, trolleybus service was launched in Leninabad.

During the years of Soviet power, radical changes took place in the field of healthcare. By 1991, the city had 40 medical and preventive institutions, which employed about 2.5 thousand doctors and specialists with higher and secondary medical degrees. education.

Major changes have occurred in the field of public education. In 1991, there were 30 schools in the city, attended by about 30 thousand students.

In 1986, the city celebrated its anniversary - the 2500th anniversary of its founding. In connection with this Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, the city of Leninabad was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples.

Modern Tajikistan

The XVI session of the Supreme Council, held in the Arbob Palace 10 km from Khujand in November 1992, restored the constitutional order in the republic and elected E. Sh. Rakhmonov as Chairman of the Supreme Council.

Culture and education

Theatre, local history and archaeological museums, a park in honor of the poet Kamoli Khujandi, which includes the mausoleum and house-museum of the poet.

In 1932, the Pedagogical Institute was opened, where only 26 people studied. Today, more than 10 thousand students study at 16 faculties of this university, which was transformed into Khujand State University in 1991. In 2010, as a result of the merger of the Polytechnic Institute. Academician M.S. Osimi and the Khujand branch of the Technological University of Tajikistan opened the Khujand Polytechnic Institute of the Tajik Technical University. Academician M. S. Osimi.

The city has a regional library named after. T. Asiri.

Chairmen of the Khukumat

  • Ahmadzoda, Radjabboy - April 1. 2016
  • Sharifzoda, Sharif Fayz April 1, 2016 - 03/31/2017
  • Muhammadzoda, Maruf from 03/31/2017

Attractions

Mosque-mausoleum of Sheikh Muslikhiddin (XVII-XVIII centuries)

Main article: Sights of Khujand

The medieval citadel, the mosque-mausoleum of Sheikh Muslihiddin (XVII-XVIII centuries), the Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene - the oldest Orthodox church in Tajikistan, built in 1884 at the expense of the Moscow merchant Khludov. Monument to the city-born poet Kamol Khujandi.

Museum-fortress of the military leader Temurmalik, who offered fierce resistance to the troops of Genghis Khan.

Famous people

  • Abu Mahmud al Khujandi (940-1000) - Tajik mathematician and astronomer, a native of Khujand, lived and worked in the city of Rey.
  • Mehesti Ganjavi (Khujandi) (1098, Khujand - 1160, ) - Tajik poetess of the 12th century, lived and worked in the city.
  • Kamol Khujandi (1321-1401) - Persian-Tajik poet
  • Muhammadaminhoja Koshif (1825–1887) - Tajik poet,
  • Toshkhuja Asiri (1864–1916) - Tajik poet,
  • Abdullah Fayyaz (1847–1934) - Tajik poet,
  • Hadji Yusuf Mirfayezov (1842–1925) - Tajik scientist.

Twin Cities

Notes

  1. Footnote error: Invalid tag ; no text specified for footnotes population_2019
  2. Agency for Statistics under the President of the Republic of Tajikistan. Population of Tajikistan as of January 1, 2019 (Russian) (unavailable link)(01/01/2019). Retrieved July 3, 2019. Archived July 2, 2015.
  3. Tajikistan // World Atlas / comp. and preparation to ed. PKO "Cartography" in 2009; Ch. ed. G. V. Pozdnyak. - M.: PKO "Cartography": Onyx, 2010. - P. 116. - ISBN 978-5-85120-295-7 (Cartography). - ISBN 978-5-488-02609-4 (Onyx).
  4. Lurie P. B. Historical and linguistic analysis of Sogdian toponymy // Diss. for the job application uch. Art. Ph.D. Phil. Sci. - St. Petersburg. , 2004. - P. 40, 151.
  5. Khujand // Dictionary of Geographical Names of the USSR / GUGK, TsNIIGAiK. - 2nd ed., revised. and additional - M.: Nedra, 1983. - P. 141.
  6. Sovetabad // Great Soviet Encyclopedia: [in 30 volumes] / ch. ed. A. M. Prokhorov. - 3rd ed. - M.: Soviet encyclopedia, 1969-1978.
  7. Population of the Republic of Tajikistan as of January 1, 2018. Agency of Statistics under the President of the Republic of Tajikistan, 2018
  8. Demoscope Weekly - Application. Directory of statistical indicators
  9. Leonid Solovyov. The Enchanted Prince. - M.: Terevinf, 2015. - 304 p. - (Ruslit. Literary monuments of the 20th century). - ISBN 978-5-4212-0181-6.
  10. Oriental flavor of Dushanbe:: On the flight with you
  11. The head of Khujand outlawed Iranian and Afghan clothing styles
  12. Emomali Rahmon appointed new mayors of Khujand and Istaravshan
  13. Archived copy (undefined) (unavailable link). Retrieved September 7, 2017. Archived September 7, 2017.

Links

  • Official website of the city
  • City portal of Khujand
  • Coat of arms of the city of Khojent, 1910
  • TSB: Leninabad
  • Khojent // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: in 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.

Khujand is the center of the Sughd region, the second largest city in Tajikistan (177 thousand inhabitants), which the Tajiks themselves jokingly call “our Petersburg”. The two “northern capitals” - the former Leningrad and Leninabad - really have a lot in common, be it big river from the front embankment, a wide avenue, a powerful system of suburbs and even that special atmosphere of a city of high culture and a look down on the riotous southern capital. I would say that Khujand is best city throughout Central Asia with the unique spirit of Soviet technocracy on the thousand-year foundation of the great Persian culture.

I will talk about Khujand in 5 parts: I talked about the most interesting of its suburbs, “Atomabad” Chkalovsk (Bustan), in the last part I will show other suburbs - the Gafurov station, the palace and park Arbob and the hypothetical Saykhun. In the next three parts we will talk about “small” Khujand, and first we will take a walk along the Syrdarya.

Northern Tajikistan is completely different from either Southern Tajikistan or the surrounding regions of Uzbekistan. If the south literally overwhelms you with its sultry alienness, then among the local fields, if there are no mountains looming on the horizon, sometimes you might think that you are somewhere near Dnepropetrovsk. Northern Tajikistan is more Soviet, but also more Persian, at least from the point of view of someone who has never seen the real Iran. Northern Tajiks are friendly, intelligent, sometimes a little arrogant, and not so crippled by the civil war of the 1990s, from the fire of which only isolated flashes reached here through two passes. This is how I remember the owners of the Khujand hostel behind the huge Panchshanbe bazaar, where we headed when we had just arrived in Northern capital from border Isfara, the story of which I will postpone until the summer. A charming young hostess, dressed in a completely European style, told us that there were no places for the week ahead and that she and her husband even allowed two English women into their house, but they could rent out an apartment to us. The price suited me, and I agreed, after which the hostess caught a taxi and, at her own expense, took us to the entrance, where a young and equally handsome husband was already waiting. Upon closer inspection, I was satisfied with the apartment not only for the price (although in the evening the Internet dried up in it), and we moved in. So let’s start our walk around Khujand with the most ordinary courtyard near the center:

Before we had time to see our hosts off, a smiling saleswoman knocked on the door with a bowl of pie, and that was very welcome, and the pies turned out to be excellent. Most likely, she lives somewhere in this block and walks around the entrances once a day. There is no combination lock at the entrance, the stairs are dark, but clean. Khujand immediately attracts the attention of the complete absence of “Asianness”, all these spontaneous outbuildings, curbside vendors or courtyard tandoors, and even satellite dishes hanging in garlands are not here:

But right in the courtyard between the clinic and the supermarket, I found either a mausoleum or a miniature mosque, which I immediately nicknamed the chapel:

Our yard turned out to be very close to Samani Avenue, which in the former Leninabad is naturally called Lenin Street in the old fashioned way. The avenue is a direct continuation of the route familiar to us from the previous part, on which Chkalovsk and Gafurov are “strung”. The last blocks before the Syrdarya on its right side are shady parks:

In the first of them, a monument to Kamol Khujandi, a Persian poet of the 14th century, who spent most of his life in Tabriz, studied in Samarkand and Tashkent, and spent several years in the Horde Sarai, where Tokhtamysh took him. However, Kamol did not forget his small homeland and signed “Khujandi” everywhere, so part of the monument is a map of his wanderings:

Opposite is a concrete stele “Fighters for Soviet Power”, hiding the local Alley of Heroes. In Russia or Belarus, I would hardly have photographed such a thing, but here, as in Ukraine, who knows how long it will remain standing?

The square between the two monuments, in the Stalin building on the left, old-timers remember the “Kairakkum grocery store”, famous for its fish from the Kairakkum reservoir on the Syr Darya, nicknamed the Tajik Sea for lack of other seas:

Real Stalinist buildings of a very local look are on the other side of the avenue. Behind them is the Soviet center at the ancient fortress, which I will leave for the next part:

The oldest library in Tajikistan, founded in March 1917 by Bolshevik officers (!) of the local garrison. The building, of course, is 60 years younger:

And there it’s a stone’s throw to the Syrdarya, which Samani Avenue crosses along the Old Bridge of the 1960s. It is no secret that from time immemorial the life of Central Asia revolved along the “Syr and Amu”; on the great rivers themselves, due to their violent temper, often changing their course, there are almost no ancient cities - not just ancient, but simply pre-Soviet ones, I can remember only from two for each of the rivers: Amudarya and Chardzhou, Syrdarya Khujand and. On the map of Tajikistan, the Syrdarya is slightly similar to the Neva, only instead of a lake and sea there are Uzbek borders. But even by Central Asian standards, Khujand is surprisingly beautifully located: from the north, the low and sun-scorched Kuraminsky ridge hangs over it, its gloomy rocky spur Mogoltau (1624m) is the southwestern claw of the Tien Shan; from the south shine the icy peaks of the Turkestan ridge, the first in the “staircase” leading through the Gissar-Alai to the Pamirs. Khujand has a century of great mountain systems they come closest to each other, to the west the Great Steppe begins, and to the east lies the heart of Turkestan, the most fertile and therefore populous oasis of the Fergana Valley. Khujand stands, as it were, at its gates, which means it could not help but have a long and complex history - suffice it to say that Khujand traces its continuity to Alexandria-Eskhata (Alexandria Extreme), which was founded by Alexander the Great in the farthest region that he could reach.

But its surviving monuments are on the other side of the bridge, so we will talk about antiquities in the next part. In the frame above is the Independence Monument, a smaller and almost exact copy of the Stele of the Coat of Arms. It closes the area in front huge complex Khukumat, in the long building of which the administration of the Sughd region lives, in the tall one - the city administration:

Nearby is the newly built Wedding Palace with the Rudaki monument:

Throughout its two and a half decades, Khujand remained a large and important city, but it was never the capital. In the 19th century, Bukhara and Kokand fought for it with varying success, for which Khujand was like Alsace for France and Germany. And it was near Khojent, cutting it off from the rest of Bukhara, that Russian troops entered the territory of the emirate in 1866. After several defeats, the emir realized that resistance was useless, and recognized the Russian protectorate over himself. But the northeast of the emir's possessions fell into direct subordination to Russia as the Samarkand region, in which Khojent became a district city, whose garrison was kept at gunpoint by Kokand, while Dushanbe, Kulyab or Kurgan-Tube remained the remote outskirts of the possessions of the Bukhara emir. In 1897, the Samarkand-Andijan railway passed near Khojent, and in general, while the virgin Middle Ages continued in the South, European civilization with its cars, medicines and rights increasingly penetrated into the North. The Soviet civil war ended much faster here, while the Red Army drove the Basmachi through the Khatlon valleys until the mid-1920s. And in general, by the time of national delimitation, Khojent was by a large margin the largest and most developed city in the territory of present-day Tajikistan. Probably, it could have become the capital of the Tajik Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, but it was not part of it - in 1924-29, according to the initial demarcation, Khojent was the district center of Uzbekistan, and it seems that when old Karimov signed a decree on construction, the Soviet reconsidered this decision The official turned over in his grave at least once. When Tajikistan was separated into a full-fledged SSR, Khojent became part of it, but Dushanbe, which was renamed Stalinabad in the same 1929, was already being built in full swing by that time. However, in Khojent, which became Leninabad in 1936, there were, like nowhere else in the republic, many educated and loyal people whose party career led straight to the new capital. This process intensified even more after the war, when Leninabad became a stronghold of the “nuclear project,” which means it was supplied first-class from the center, turning into an intelligent and developed city with an abundance of Russians and Germans.

This is how the strongest “Leninabad clan” in the TSSR was formed - in previous posts I have more than once quoted the formula “Leninabad rules and protects, the Pamirs dance, Karategin trades.” When independence came and the tension that had been accumulating for decades broke out, the old and therefore clumsy Leninabd nomenklatura let go of the situation. Among the “Leninabadites” were the first president of the country, Kahar Makhkamov, and his successor, Rakhmon Nabiyev, who, according to one version, was behind the organization of the riots in Dushanbe, not appreciating that these riots would erupt into a brutal war, in which he himself would first lose power, and then life. Among the “Leninabadites” was the Yaghnobi Safarali Kendzhaev, chairman of the Supreme Council of the republic, who, at the beginning of the war, organized the Popular Front of Hissar and Kulyab residents. The people of Kulyab eventually won that war, becoming the new masters of the capital. They say that in the first years after the war, the “Leninabadites” were hated in the rest of Tajikistan, accusing some of weakness (that they allowed the war to happen), others of cunning (that they played into controlled chaos, sitting behind the mountains, and eventually outwitted themselves), but now they rather respected as an elite national culture- drawing parallels with another country suffering from clan strife, the people of Kulyab are like “Donetsk” people, and the northerners are like Westerners. The Khujans themselves now speak about the Kulyab people with undisguised hatred - they say, they drove us out of the capital and are turning it into a village, and I think that often the basis of this hatred is the broken career of a father, grandfather, uncle or father-in-law. It’s difficult for me to judge who is right here, but Khujand really looks much neater, more cospolitan, and even, I would say, more civilized than Dushanbe. There are different people on its streets, but in the frames above and below there are two specifically local types: a respectable gray-haired Tajik with a mournful and stern face, looking like a former capital official, and a young, well-groomed girl without signs of patriarchy in her clothes and face.

And Russian people are found here noticeably more often than in Dushanbe, and even more so anywhere in the provinces (they simply aren’t there). Here is the characteristic appearance of local women, much more similar to residents of Uzbekistan than to residents of the Tajik South.

From the square near the Independence Monument there are impressive views of the right bank under the stone sky of the mountains. Khujand not only stands on the Syr Darya itself, it also stands on its two banks, having “stepped over” the river only in the 1960s:

In the frame above is the long building of the university, in the frame below is the golden dome of the mosque on Tashkent Avenue, to which we will rise from the river:

And the river bed is decorated with many dilapidated sculptures, as if reminiscent of the ancient Greek origins of the city:

The Syr Darya has surprisingly clear water - and this despite the fact that many times more people live upstream than below, and the canals bring here all sorts of rubbish from all the fields and factories of the Fergana Valley, which is full of cities and villages. But the full flow of the river here is still far from at its peak - in Uzbekistan, large and, by local standards, flow into it, on whose valleys the Tashkent region is strung. After them, the Syrdarya is approximately the size of the Dniester, but what is impressive about it is not its deep water, but its length - 2212 kilometers, to the mosquito delta. Most of the length, and somewhere downstream the flames of rockets taking off from Baikonur are reflected in its water.

We cross the river along the Old Bridge. In the frame above you can see Kamola Khujandi Park, hiding ancient fortress, and the dome of the symbolic mausoleum-monument to the poet. Samani Avenue continues across the river, higher up the slope abutting the university buildings:

Behind the bridge, I met RAFik for the only time in the city - until recently there were many of them in Jizzakh, in Kazakhstan, and apparently here, but now this is clearly a fading nature. Mostly Mercedes minibuses ply around Khujand, and in 1970-2010 even one of the two trolleybuses in Tajikistan operated. But if in “blighted” Dushanbe this transport was restored from an almost ruined state after the civil war, then in “highly cultural” Khujand it was closed with the stroke of a pen, as in Tashkent. Another feature of local transport concerns “individual” taxis or even just bombs - they drive you here for 10 somoni (70-80 rubles) regardless of the distance, so it’s easier to catch minibuses.

The symbol of the right bank for a long time was the monument to Lenin (1974), by a large margin the largest in Central Asia (22 meters high) and, as it were, the third largest in the Soviet Union after the grandiose Ilyichs on the canals and, and, unlike those two, it was erected in a completely different era and never stood in a duet with Stalin.

But Ilyich was dismantled in 2011 and seemed to have been moved somewhere to the outskirts, and in its place an even more gigantic monument to Ismail Samani, the most revered monarch of Tajik history, rose:

However, may the old-timers forgive me, but in my opinion this the best monument Tajikistan, if not all of post-Soviet Central Asia. And the most interesting thing about it is not the sculpture of the ancient emir, but a cascade of mosaics, in style and execution quite worthy of Soviet times:

In the frame above, in pairs - modernity and the Great Silk Road, the industrial USSR with tractors and pipes and Zoroastrian Iran with bearded kings and winged faravahars. The last “line” is about the era of the Russian Empire, and it even contains this touching detail:

In the top group of mosaics are Sogdian Varakhsha with its frescoes, Timurid Samarkand and Muslim Bukhara in the center of the panel.

I couldn’t understand the meaning of the last two mosaics, but this winged lion clearly says “nya!”:

Well, who is Ismail Samani, I have already told you so many times in previous posts that, frankly speaking, I don’t have the strength to repeat myself, but in short - his destiny, which separated from the Arab Caliphate, became the first Muslim state of Central Asia, formed one of the strongest empires of the East, standing at the origins of the Asian Renaissance.

In general, in my opinion, the Khujand Samani memorial became a completely worthy replacement for Ilyich (although he was still unique, so it would be better if both of them looked at the Syr Darya) and, in my opinion, much more elegant than the Dushanbe complex. As it should be in the Northern capital...

A look back. The fountains are either already turned off due to autumn (the piercing wind is not visible in the photographs), or they are not turned on every day. Below the cascade, the bank of the Syr Darya occupies sports complex, including a swimming pool, the architect of which clearly tried to keep up with European trends:

Across the river you can see the clay hump of the fortress, but you will agree that nature attracts the eye much more than the city - the shining jagged ridge of the Turkestan Range. I won’t even try to identify the peaks by eye, but the highest peaks in this part of the ridge are Piryakh (4681m) and Sabah (5282m), and there is also a Skalisty peak on the ridge (5621) 20 meters lower than Elbrus. The border of Tajikistan with Kyrgyzstan runs along the ridge... and from here it is the “Kyrgyz” slope that is visible - the mountains are actually about 70 kilometers away, and Kyrgyzstan is wedged here into Tajik territory with a long ledge. The brown hill of Degmai, supporting Khujand from the south - still in Tajikistan:

Let's go upstairs. Tajik high-rise buildings are invariably pleasing to the eye, and in the former Leninabad, given its importance in Soviet times, especially:

Behind the intersection, the property of Khujand University begins, and we arrived at a good time - past the renovated dorms, students were walking in a noisy crowd to the minibus stops:

Khujand University itself named after Bobojon Gafurov was founded in 1932, and somewhere in the center (I didn’t see) it also has an old building from Stalin’s times. But these buildings are definitely better, if only because from their windows students can see the entire city, and while listening to a boring lecture, they can admire the mountains.

Slavic faces flashed among the students once or twice (or maybe they were Pamiris? They get along with the northerners now), but on the stairs there was this inscription:

To the left (if you stand facing the buildings) is a huge and incomprehensible monument, looking as if it was rejected in Ashgabat. Previously, there was an equestrian statue of Ismail Samani, but when a new monument was built further down the slope, it was also removed. Now here is just an abstract crown with apparently an observation deck, which hardly anyone has ever seen open:

Next is a concrete jungle. The right bank of the Syr Darya in Khujand serves as the New City: on that side there are makhallas, on this side there are microdistricts, all by number and with different projects (look closely - in the middle plan the houses are smoothly curved). And behind the mountains in the haze, 30 kilometers from here stands Bekabad, one of the main industrial centers of Uzbekistan.

Khujand is still incredibly beautifully located. Almaty and Bishkek are more open to the mountains, but they only have mountains on one side; Dushanbe is also located between mountains, but the mountains there are boring and inconspicuous. And here, from the slopes of some mountains, it’s good to admire others:

On the right there are no distant views, but only students catching minibuses:

The street over which the bridge is thrown is Tashkent Avenue, and it is strange that this name could be preserved here. However, on the Google map you can still see the streets of Komsomolskaya, Rosa Luxemburg, Stakhanov - perhaps, in their patrimony, the “Leninabad clan” resists renaming, because the old toponymy reminds local officials of the times when the Kulyab people protected them.

We will continue our journey parallel to the Syrdarya, from the student bridge to the right. There was a jalopy with a hairpin unknown to me by the road, and a teahouse with a hellish entrance...

It hides behind itself not exactly a huge, but a very large new Nur-Islam (“Light of Islam”) mosque, beautifully set against the backdrop of shining mountains:

The structure of the mosque is even more impressive - the plan has an eight-pointed star (a symbol so popular in Central Asia, with its roots clearly going back to the pre-Islamic era), and even with a downright ecclesiastical five-domed structure:

It’s a stone’s throw from the mosque to the 60th Anniversary of Victory Avenue (note that it could only get this name in 2007), and its prospects are, without exaggeration, dizzying! I mistook a powerful saddle in the mountains for the Shakhristan pass, through which we should go south, but it is actually fifty kilometers to the west. But Chkalovsk, the high-rise hotel "Khujand" and four high-rise buildings across the pond from it are clearly visible - but we also admired the city in the last part from there. Beyond Chkalovsk you can clearly see the gap in the valley - this is the farthest corner of Kyrgyzstan from Bishkek, which takes a whole day to get to even from Osh.

60th Anniversary of Victory Avenue turns into Gagarin Street, crossing the Syrdarya along the New Bridge. It is also known as Yubileiny, that is, it was built either in 1970 or in 1967, and in any case, a few years later than the Old Bridge. But we didn’t meet a RAFik here, but two convertibles, racing, of course, to someone’s wedding:

Behind the bridge in the shot above you can see the greenery of the fenced-in, but even through it you can see that it is a neglected Botanical Garden. On the Syr Darya it is continued by the island of Chumchuk-Aral, occupied by the Central Asian desert recreation park Navruzgokh:

Chumchuk-Aral in translation means Sparrow Island, but on its arrow there is not a sparrow, but a Dove of Peace. No one really knows anything about it, except that it was built back in the 1970s, but initially stood on Mira Street (parallel to the Syrdarya below Tashkent Avenue), like the hammer and sickle, which was later moved to the Lenin monument and together with it dismantled. To be honest, this bird scares me - why won’t it fluff up its feathers, coo loudly and, spinning in front of the dove, destroy half of Khujand with its stone tail?!

On the other side of the bridge, the dove is echoed by the Il-18 aircraft, which was made in 1958-78 in Moscow. In Central Asian cities, such cafes invariably housed cafes that were dear to the hearts of Russians who left here, and most of them closed in post-Soviet times. We didn’t even bother to approach the plane along a neglected and deserted alley, but up close it doesn’t fit into the frame, and its door is tightly closed.

Above the plane you can see the same mosque, sparkling with its dome from the rows of buildings, and the white spot on the slope is nothing more than the Kiik-Tap uranium mine, which worked in 1973-87 almost within the city limits.

The building behind the bridge, again on the left bank, is very similar to a fragment of the district Khojent:

I have already written that I met Russian immigrants from Leninabad more often than immigrants from any other Central Asian city - they are hardly the most numerous, but rather the most educated and active, and therefore more likely to travel or read LiveJournal. I don’t know what emotions this post will evoke in them - after all, I myself saw Soviet Leninabad only in other people’s photographs - see. table of contents.
Western Fergana (Kanibadam, Isfara, Chorku, Vorukh) - posts will be in a series about the Fergana Valley
Sogd region. October.
Khujand. Syrdarya.
Khujand. Center.
Khujand. Pachshanbe.
Suburbs of Khujand. Chkalovsk (Bustan).
Suburbs of Khujand. Arbob and Gafurov.
Istaravshan (Ura-Tube). Bazaar and sacred groves.
Istaravshan (Ura-Tube). Old city.
Istaravshan (Ura-Tube). New city and views from the hills.
Shakhristan pass and Zerafshan valley.
Penjikent. Kainar.
Penjikent. City.
Neighborhoods of Penjikent. Panjrud and Sarazm.
Sogd region. August.
Anzob pass and Aini.
Lake Iskanderkul.
Yagnob Valley. Road.
Yagnob Valley. Lost Sogdiana.
Karategin and Pamir- there will be posts.
. Review and table of contents.