Mumbai (aka Bombay until 1995) is the largest Indian city with a population of more than 21 million people. This is economic and Cultural Center countries: the offices of the world's most famous corporations, fashionable hotels and haute couture shops are located here. Here, in the world-famous “Bollywood,” most Indian films and television programs are filmed. Here in search better life people flock from all over the country and from all over the world. And yet in Mumbai they are at peace! Mumbai is absolutely unlike the rest of India: both in its colonial architecture, which is breathtaking, and in the way representatives of different cultures and religions coexist organically here. When you get to Mumbai, you seem to be transported from dirty, noisy India to the Bombay of Kipling’s time and, despite the bustling life around you, it seems that time has stopped. We tell you how to get there, where to stay and what to do in this amazing city.

Guide contents:

Many airlines fly to Mumbai and you can often catch a ticket at a decent discount. However, there are no direct flights from Minsk, Kyiv, or Moscow. Arabic flies from Minsk with a transfer to Abu Dhabi Etihad. The cheapest way to fly from Moscow Aeroflot, however, here you will have a long layover in Delhi.

If you want to visit the Indian capital at the same time, then you can leave Delhi for Mumbai in two ways. Local low-cost airline IndiGo from $30 per ticket. The flight will take 2 hours. By train, which will take you 24 hours to Mumbai, for about the same cost in a 3rd class carriage. Train schedules, seat availability and ticket prices can be found on the Indian Railways website.

The most comfortable way to get from the airport to the city center is by taxi. In the terminal building there are Pre-paid Taxi counters with a fixed fare. A trip to the city center starts from $7.

In Mumbai, heavy street traffic often leads to hours-long traffic jams. Therefore, if you arrive during peak hours, it’s faster to get to the city center by train Mumbai Suburban Railway Network. The nearest Vile Parle station from the airport can be reached by taxi, rickshaw or bus: No. 312 (from Terminal 1) and No. 321 (from Terminal 2).

Comfortable BEST shuttles also go from the airport to the city center every 15-20 minutes. You can view the bus route and build it for yourself on the company’s website.

To find out everything you need to know about public transport Mumbai, download the app m-indicato. This is an irreplaceable thing in the city! With its help, you can build bus and train routes, find out transport schedules, and calculate the cost of taxi trips.

In Mumbai, rickshaws and bombilas are banned, only official taxis. True, during peak times and at night, a taxi driver may refuse to take you according to the meter, asking for a large amount. Bargain for a decline.

The most comfortable way to travel short distances in the city is by taxi. The first kilometer of the trip costs $0.25 according to the meter, then $0.15 per km. Don't forget to remind the driver to turn on the meter!

The Mumbai Suburban Railway Network has 4 lines and connects remote areas of the city. The fare depends on the distance and starts from $0.07 for a pair of stations. Tickets are purchased at ticket offices at stations. As a rule, trains have 1st class carriages (which differ in price, but not in comfort - from $0.70) and separate all-women carriages.

Bus service in Mumbai is very developed. As a rule, all inscriptions on city buses are in Hindi, including numbers. You can try to learn counting in Hindi, but it’s still extremely difficult to navigate bus traffic without Arabic numerals.

Surprisingly, it can be difficult to find accommodation in Mumbai: prices are 3 times higher than the national average (on Booking.com even higher), hotels are often overcrowded, many hotels accommodate only Indians, only men or only Indian men! Couchsurfers themselves do not recommend stopping through Couchserfing.com. In addition, web-based accommodation booking services are not that common in India, especially for budget accommodation.

You can find an inexpensive guesthouse by walking down the street Shahid Bhagat Singh Road (Colaba Causeway) where the famous Leopold Cafe. 4-5 star hotels are located nearby along the fashionable Marine Drive. Mid-price hotels are scattered between these two streets.

Salvation Army House or Salvation Army Home (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba) . Its 4-storey building is located just behind the famous Taj Mahal Palace. Salvation Army is a Protestant charity helping the homeless and disadvantaged. Now the building has been completely converted into a hostel: both dormitories and private rooms (AC and NonAC) are offered. Exactly this cheap place in Mumbai! The cost of a night with breakfast starts from $5 (per bed in a dormitory). There are always limited spaces available; pre-booking is only possible for groups. Salvation Army is also famous for its unique “paramilitary” atmosphere: barracks-style dorms, personnel in military uniform, an ascetic canteen, the absence hot water and thousands of travelers from all over the world! Minus: no bed linen and hot water. Pros: price, breakfast, location and atmosphere.

Hotel Volga II (Rustam Manzil, 1st floor, Above Leopord Cafe, NF Road, Colaba) located right next to Leopold Cafe (very small shabby sign, you need to climb the steps to the 2nd floor) - popular budget place. Private rooms (AC and NonAC) are the cheapest in Colaba. Prices for a NonAC room with shared bathroom start at $10. Cons: small rooms, no breakfast. Pros: price, location.

Apollo Hotel (Mathuradas Estate building, Mathuradas Estate Building, 43/45 Colaba Causeway, Colaba) . A small guesthouse occupies the 1st floor of a residential building. Rooms (AC and NonAC) starting at $10/night. Cons: small rooms, no breakfast. Pros: price, location.

Carlton Hotel 1* (Florence House, No.12, MereWeather Road, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel) - a tolerable hotel for the unpretentious. The small, no-frills rooms make up for the great location. Great for collapsing and falling asleep after a busy day in Mumbai. Rooms (AC and NonAC) from $12 per night.

Bentley Hotel Marine Drive 2* (Krishna Mahal, 3rd Floor, Marine Drive, Churchgate) - a decent hotel in a historical building located right on Marine Drive, within walking distance from Churchgate railway station, but a bit far from Colaba. But jogging along the morning Marine Drive is guaranteed! Modern rooms with breakfast from $45/night. Some rooms overlook the bay. Disadvantage: distance from Colaba. Plus: breakfast, Marine Drive.

Bentley's Hotel 3* (17, Oliver Road, Colaba) - a quality, no frills hotel with large AC rooms and private bathrooms. Wi-Fi is only at the reception, in India it is called "in public areas" Nightly rates from $45. Plus: location, breakfast, large rooms, renovated building.

Taj Mahal Palace 5* (Apollo Bunder, Colaba) . To fully feel the spirit of British Bombay, you should stay at the most famous 5-star hotel in the city, built in the nineteenth century. The Taj Mahal is a museum and a hotel rolled into one. Famous artists and musicians, politicians and members of royal families stayed here. The rooms are decorated in Indian style, some of them overlooking the Arabian Sea and India Gate. There are several restaurants, a SPA and a swimming pool on site. Nightly rates start at $215.

Mumbai is a city where poverty and wealth do not coexist so organically in the world. The business center of the city with the main attractions, hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs is located in the south in the Colaba area. In the north of Mumbai there are world-famous slum areas.

In the mid-90s, the city underwent a large-scale renaming. Therefore, get used to the fact that almost any attraction or institution has two names: the old, well-known one and the new, usually unpronounceable one. To this day, many establishments in Mumbai are called Bombay.

Rich Mumbai

Mumbai's nightlife is in full swing until 2 am. Afterwards, all establishments close, the city is strict about this. Bars are usually open until midnight. Most nightclubs prefer Indian music!

Aer (Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, 1/136, 34th Floor, Hotel Rooftop, Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli) - an artsy rooftop bar at the Four Seasons Hotel, offering stunning views of Mumbai. Expats prefer to gather here to admire the city over a cocktail and a pleasant conversation.

Trilogy (Hotel Sea Princess, 969, Juhu Tara Rd, Airport Area, Juhu) . Bombay's favorite two-story club is located near Santracruz West airport. On Saturday, the entrance fee can reach $20.

Wink (Vivanta by Taj President, 90, Cuffe Parade) is one of the most glamorous bars in Mumbai. Located at the Vivanta by Taj President Hotel and open until midnight. Japanese cuisine and a pint of beer starting at $7.

China House (Grand Hyatt Mumbai Off Near Bandra Kurla Complex, Western Express Hwy, Vakola, Santacruz East) . Another popular club among locals is located in Hotel Grand Hyatt in Santracruz area. There is strict face control here. On Fridays the club is open until 3 am. Besides everything, it is famous for its excellent Chinese cuisine.

Tryst (Phoenix Mill Compound, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel) - one of the most popular and expensive clubs among Mumbai residents. You will have to pay $15-30 for entry depending on the day of the week, with the most expensive on Saturday. Table rental will cost $450.

Hype (Atria, The Millenium Mall, R1, 4/F, Dr Annie Beasant Road, Worli) . If you want to plunge into the atmosphere of a Bollywood party, then you need to go to Hype. Indian movie stars often visit the club; remixes of famous Bollywood songs are played here and themed parties are held.

Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) . Along the street there are shops and stalls with everything a tourist needs: souvenirs, magnets, clothes, shoes, jewelry. True, the quality leaves much to be desired. If you want to buy really good Indian things, you should go to the local markets. Prices for small souvenirs here are lower than the national average.

Book deals on Mahatma Gandhi Road(in the Flora Fountain area). In India books on English language cost mere pennies. For example, a large collection of Kafka can be bought on sale for $4. The publisher prints the recommended price on the back of the books, but here you can and should bargain!

Chor Bazaar (Mutton St, Kumbharwada) . Mumbai's largest flea market is famous for its variety of antiques and antiques sold for pennies. Here you can find Victorian furniture and home decor, whimsical musical instruments and vintage Bollywood posters. The last ones in the store with the huge Mini Market sign.

Mangaldas Market(Janjiker St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) - Mumbai's largest textile market with a 200-year history. The best silks and saris in the city are sold here. In a huge number of stores you can find traditional Indian clothing of excellent quality at a low price (overshirts, trousers, scarves, etc.).

Zaveri Bazaar (Sheikh Menon St, Lohar Chawl, Kalbadevi) - the jewelry mecca of Mumbai, where thousands of shops sell cheap jewelry made from yellow gold, beloved by Indians. For jewelry you need to go to Bhuleshwar Market (Marine Lines East, Panjarpole, Bhuleshwar) - this is a real women's paradise, where the brilliance of jewelry blinds the eyes! The latter is closed on Sundays.

To the spice market Lalbaug Market (Dinshaw Petit Rd, Lal Baug, Parel) It is worth going for the world famous turmeric, red and Kashmiri chili peppers. Good spices in factory packaging can also be purchased at any grocery store. For example, at the Sahakari Bhandar supermarket (Colaba Chamber, Ground Floor, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba) in Colaba.

Buy good tea in India it is more a myth than a reality. As often happens, excellent tea is immediately exported, and Indians drink what is left or powdered tea (as we do in tea bags). When brewed, it turns out very strong and completely tasteless. Of course, shops and markets sell loose leaf teas in beautiful packages especially for tourists. But they should not be confused with that very real Indian tea.

Map of Mumbai with attractions from the guide

Bargain like it's the last time in your life! Know that for the first time an enterprising Indian names a price at least 2 times higher than the real one. You need to bargain for everything except food, medicine and prices in government agencies (transport, post office, etc.). Retail prices are already printed on food and drink packaging by manufacturers.

Currency. In India, money is changed not by banks, but by special exchangers with the Currency Exchange sign. They charge a fee of 7% of the amount and do not set the most favorable exchange rate, so it is better to change on the black market (both from dollars to rupees and vice versa). In Mumbai, it is profitable to change money at Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road). Just walk along the market street and the money changers will approach you. You have to bargain for the course! Focus on the official exchange rate minus a dozen or two Indian cents. The larger the amount you change, the better the exchange rate you ask for.

Internet. Due to the 2008 terrorist attacks in Mumbai, strict security measures have been taken. First of all, this affects the availability of communications and the Internet. It may well happen that your roaming will stop working in the city. There is no Wi-Fi access in in public places, only in rare cafes and restaurants, as well as in hotels of medium and high price categories. At the same time, to connect to the network, you may be required to present a passport and access may be limited during the daytime.

If you need to always be in touch, you should connect a local SIM card. 1 GB mobile internet will cost about $4-5. This can be done at any street stand with icons of mobile operators. Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road) and Bharucha Road have them at every step. To connect, you need a copy of your passport and visa, 2 3x4 photos and, optionally, a hotel payment receipt. Activation of a purchased SIM card may take from several hours to a couple of days. This process is quite complex and consists in the fact that mobile operator carefully checks your details and makes sure to call the hotel to confirm that you are staying there. The SIM card can be used throughout the country and top up your account anywhere.

You are allowed into Indian airports only upon presentation of your air ticket. Make sure it is downloaded to your smartphone. If you arrived and left the airport, they will not let you back in, because... the ticket has been used. Therefore, first of all, try to change money or withdraw it from an ATM in the airport building; it will be almost impossible to do this on the street.

First aid kit. If you have never taken sedatives in your life, take stronger and more challenging ones with you to India. You can start accepting them at the airport. Don’t flatter yourself, this is India, you won’t get away with simple valerian here. Also make sure you have a full range of medications with you for digestive problems. Don't forget the hand sanitizer. If you have asthma or lung problems, take antihistamines, a thick face mask (can be bought at any pharmacy in Mumbai) and do not walk around the city in the morning when smog descends on the streets. The air in Mumbai is so polluted, especially in winter, that unaccustomed tourists often become allergic to it. If this happens, go straight to the nearest hospital, they will give you special strong antihistamines against air allergies.

What to take with you. Make several copies of your passport and visa, they are needed when checking into hotels and connecting a SIM card. India has its own concepts of purity and whiteness white, so it’s a good idea to bring bed linen that you don’t mind. If you are planning to travel around the country or go to Goa by train, take a light sleeping bag. If you are going north, the sleeping bag is thicker. Not all the streets of Mumbai are illuminated in the evening, and in Goa there is no street lighting at all, so a flashlight is a good idea. It is better to bring hygiene items with you; it can be extremely difficult to find them in India. Toilet paper Indians don’t use it; they sell it to tourists at a price of around $1 per roll.

How to become a disco dancer? In "Bollywood" they organize boring and insanely expensive excursions, where, at best, they will show one small filming pavilion. Do you want to see Bollywood from the inside? Go to the daytime Leopold Cafe (Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Near Colaba Police Station, Colaba Causeway) or Salvation Army House (43/45, BEST Marg, Apollo Bandar, Colaba), where Bollywood casting managers hang out and gather Western youth for extras. A European face in an Indian film is prestigious! The filming process takes the whole day, but you will plunge into the world of Indian cinematography and earn about $7 for filming.

Text - Ekaterina Borisova, photo - KIDKUTSMEDIA, marina.shakleina,

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Using the example of the largest slum of this city, Dharavi. More than a million people live on an area of ​​215 hectares (according to some sources, 3 million people live here), and there are also various social institutions and industries. A blogger who recently visited Mumbai talks about how life goes in this area.

Let's start from the very bottom. The poorest residents of Bombay live in tents. Tents are built near the sea or very close to railways, where it is impossible to build normal houses. This is also where they cook, where they throw away garbage and wash dishes.

The life of such tents is short-lived, they are blown away by the wind, and they burn down when residents try to keep warm on a cold night.

In some places you can find entire blocks of rags, tarpaulins, and plywood.

A courtyard in one of the blocks of such slums.

Local residents.

Despite the dirt around, the residents themselves try to take care of themselves, their clothes are clean, everyone washes regularly, the girls dress up. If you meet them in another place, you wouldn’t even think that they could live in tents in the middle of a garbage dump.

They also try to maintain cleanliness in the dwellings themselves and the passages between them.

The main type of Bombay slums are these multi-storey houses made of metal sheets and plywood. It all starts with one-story houses, and then grows upward. I've seen 10-story slums!

On the left is one of the blocks



It is impossible to understand these houses. Nobody knows where one ends and the other begins. Of course, there are no addresses here and these houses are not on any map of the world.

Such slums are terribly picturesque!



Let's go inside. Narrow passages where it is sometimes difficult for two people to pass each other. Almost no sunlight gets here. Numerous stairs that lead to the upper floors.

Entrance to one of the dwellings. The home here is actually a bedroom-living room. They eat, cook, relieve themselves on the street.

Minor needs are relieved wherever necessary

Another type of slum is along railways.

They are built in close proximity to the railway.

Indian train is coming

Slum dwellers run off the tracks. I wonder if anyone keeps statistics on how many people die here under the wheels of a train?

The rails are often used as the only road to get out of the anthill of the slums.

Children play on the rails



The outskirts of the slums and the famous big pipe

Look how cozy it is!

One of the courtyards

The White house.

Some slums are located on the banks of rivers and canals. In ordinary cities, the proximity of a river or seashore is rather a plus. In India it's the other way around. Garbage is dumped into rivers, beaches are used as large toilets, so the poorest sections of society live on the banks.

Sometimes the river is not visible because everything is littered with garbage.

Please note that garbage here is thrown directly from the back door of one of the houses. That is, people could live on the banks of the canal, but they decided to live near a stinking garbage dump.

This is also a canal completely filled with garbage. Somewhere down there there is water flowing... The garbage is decomposing and rotting, the stench is terrible.



But people like it!



Here is such a resident. The monkey turned out to be evil and almost ate me!

Let's take a look inside the home. As you can see, it is very clean there.

Living room



Some houses house tailoring or food preparation businesses. Maybe your favorite jeans are made here somewhere!

Now the slums are being actively developed. Multi-storey buildings are being built in place of dilapidated houses, and overpasses are being made instead of narrow passages. So, soon you will only be able to see the famous slums of Bombay in old photographs.



Be sure to take a walk here

You will not regret.

I won't give bad advice.



Tomorrow Bombay will be like this!

Hello! I am Gleb Kuznetsov, I am 26 years old, today I want to talk about one of my days spent in the Indian city of Mumbai, which is however known throughout the world under its former name Bombay, thanks to the wonderful book “Shantaram”. We visited the very Bombay slums where Shantaram takes place and around. Just this evening I arrived by train from mountain resort Pune, famous for the Osho Ashram, did not have time to comprehend this phenomenon - Bombay. Therefore, the first look out the window upon waking up, and a shiver runs down your spine. Having seen this, a person cannot remain indifferent, and a photographer cannot sit idly by. It’s half past six, it’s quickly getting light, but I do the prescribed exercise, take a photo for memory and run into the city.

People sleep everywhere, they sleep in families, side by side, in deep sleep, women, children, old people. It is obvious that they are not tramps or beggars, since there are bags with spare clothes and some belongings nearby. I understand that I am walking among those whom I read about in children’s books about India, among the untouchables, engaged in the dirtiest and lowest paid work and who have never had housing. I take hundreds of photographs, but photographing people sleeping on the streets of Bombay is like photographing clerks running through the streets of New York - there are countless of them.

The night is very warm and people don’t even need blankets, and cardboard is enough for bedding. But I notice that among the homeless men sleep alone, usually near the doors of the shops. Later, my guesses would be confirmed - these were their employees or even owners who chose to spend the night at their workplace on the way home to the suburbs. But the room is stuffy - and the street is like a shared bedroom.

By half past six the city wakes up. Servants and taxi drivers appear on the streets, and those sleeping on the sidewalks begin their morning toilet. I see that they are not tramps at all in our understanding, and after half an hour I would not distinguish them from most Indians. People from the sidewalks comb their hair and wash themselves and brush their teeth, drawing water from special barrels, and cook breakfast here over the fires.
All of them have developed unquestioning obedience - they allow themselves to be photographed in this unsightly form, and do not interfere with the filming of sleeping members of their families. They just smile timidly and often thank you for the shot, but don’t even ask to see it.
Meanwhile, the morning is in full swing, but I went too far towards the “Central Railway Terminal”, running from one group of sleeping people to another, like Mashenka ran from mushroom to mushroom until she ended up in a den. Thus, the idea of ​​having breakfast at the table with a fork in hand fails, since there is not a single safe establishment in this area. But there is an opportunity to try street cuisine. Unlike most taverns for locals, street food in India is both tasty and safe (at least I, having traveled this country from Trivandrum in the south to Varanasi in the north and tried all the local pies and gingerbreads, have never had any problems). Well, a few red pepper puff pastry potato pies and a glass of sweet milk tea for $2 and I'm ready to hit the road. Oh, I completely forgot to tell you that any minute now the night bus from Goa and in it my friends are the Chistozvonov couple. Sasha and Ira were spending their vacation on the beach and, for the sake of the thrill, decided to sacrifice two nights on the bus, but wander with me through the Bombay slums. This is our mission for today, and to facilitate it, I agreed in the evening with the taxi driver Fazil on a tour of the slums and brothels and communities of transvestite hijdras.
I get to Borivali by local train faster than expected, and while my friends are still approaching the city, I go into the entrance of a concrete high-rise building near the station that I like. The wealthy middle class lives in such houses in Bombay, and, as far as I could see, all the suburbs are built up with them, while the city center is occupied by slums and a patch of the World Trade Center with the local Latin Quarter.
The entrance to the entrance is blocked by a crazy man, Faisal. He forbids taking photographs of himself because he is afraid of death from the camera. But Faisal is not a coward - he protects his home from evil. He has an amulet on his bare chest, and the ghost will not be able to pass by him. I still made my way in and, not wanting to frighten or offend the crazy person, I focused on photographs of the situation in the entrance.




But here comes San Sanych! And without delay I plunge him and Ira into the world of real Bombay!
Guide Fazil meets us in Borivali. However, he is afraid of getting on the front pages of world publications as a person involved in exposing the Bombay “dark kingdom”, so he avoids a group photo. We manage to persuade him to capture it on film much later, when all the tests are already behind us. In the meantime, he takes us to the slum area in his forty-year-old Fiat, which is parked on the sidewalk in the photo below.
The city center, called the World Trade Center, is virtually indistinguishable from the slums. There is neither a stone wall nor a wall of machine gunners - these two are completely different worlds exist side by side and, unlike major cities Latin America, do not show hostility in any way.
Bombay slums They are closed areas surrounded by wide streets. Inside there is an unimaginable tangle of narrow alleys. Basically, slums are divided into Hindu and Muslim, and also into slums where there are houses, albeit made of sheet iron, and those with only plastic sheds. Fazil is a Muslim and a member of the middle class, so he takes us to those slums that are close to his spirit. We don’t mind at all, since the Muslim slums where the Bombay middle class lives are, as they say, classics of the genre.
The outer perimeter of the slums is occupied by shops and workshops, in the barracks closest to them there are always warehouses, and further inland there are residential “neighbourhoods”.



After walking around the outer perimeter, Fazil asks us: “Maybe to the India Gate?” But we stubbornly demand to the very depths, and with fear for my camera and our mental health, he leads us into the slums. By the way, the Bombay slums are universally recognized as the safest place in India. They are completely under the control of local communities; no outsider will penetrate here, and if they do, they will not leave if local laws are violated. For tourists, access to the slums is completely free, but... one of the basic rules in the slums: “Do not take photographs!” Muslims are categorically against cameras. However, how would I tell this story? All along the way, you first have to bow to the models, politely ask how they are, and then timidly ask if they can take one picture. Men and children are always happy about this, completely dispelling established ideas. Women, especially old ones, on the contrary, react incontinently: often not understanding that I am only asking permission, they begin to call their husbands - they run out angry and it takes a lot of time to explain. In short, step by step deeper into the slums.
After a tangle of back streets with sewage flowing and rats and children running interspersed, we reach the heart of this part of Bombay - the courtyards. They are relatively clean and spacious and in spirit resemble a kitchen in a communal apartment. Here they wash and dry clothes, play, tinker with motorcycles, in a word, people’s entire lives are focused on these pieces of “land” in the middle of an ocean of nightmare. Here the air is like air!

Fazil tells us that in Bombay they are outraged by the myth that poor people live in slums. According to the guide, men earn up to $500 a month here, and the housing itself in the slum can cost several tens of thousands of dollars, since it is close to the center and, so to speak, is located in a comfortable and safe area. As for general poverty, its main reason is the large number of children in families and unemployed women. And even if our Fazil doubled the earnings of the Bombay slum people, Sasha, Ira and I simultaneously came to the conclusion that these people were not so much hopelessly poor as they had become irrevocably accustomed to the surrounding nightmare situation and were unable to adequately assess it.
But okay, the photo is a souvenir, and we gradually leave the slums, because after several hours of wandering here, the stench makes your throat feel nauseous and you want only one thing: to take a full lungful of air without fear!


Here is the main sports arena of the Bombay slums! No comments are needed - we are skipping towards Fazil’s minibus!
And we ask for fresh air. The slums united us! But the beach is also not exactly a beach, but a combination of a fishing dump and massive deposits of Indians. Sasha and Ira desperately ask Fazil to take them at least for half an hour “to a quiet place,” but he just laughs: “Where can I find a free place in Bombay?”
But we walk through the city center and find it quite civilized and nice: the university and administrative buildings of English construction, wide streets, wonderful old Fiats...

But after catching our breath, it would be nice to have lunch. We go to a vegetarian restaurant. For four dollars we order a classic dish of rice and vegetables, and we get a palm leaf like this, with a mountain of delicious food. One question: “How is it?”
Like this!
I don’t dare show you what we did with this food with our stubby fingers. And there is no time, since Fazil is already driving us to the Congress Hall area - Bombay's red light district. So the first charming lady shyly attracts visitors to her porch.
Prostitutes in shabby outfits mill about along the street, but at the sight of a camera they scatter to the corners - they are afraid of fame. Fazil says that young ladies come to work from Nepal and Bangladesh, and for half an hour of work they ask for $3.
But be careful! India is famous for its LGBT community called Hijdras. The danger is not so much in confusing such a representative of the sexual minority with a natural lady, but in not pleasing her! Hijdras are the oldest and most authoritative caste of Indian society. They have the privilege of cursing people, and paying off such a curse will cost a lot! My dear Sasha was seriously afraid of the hijdras and hid in the car, leaving me alone with them, but I, having talked enough, came to an opinion about them as sweet creatures (don’t get me wrong).
The price for half an hour with a hijdra is the same as with a prostitute, and the money will go into the same pocket. At the back entrances to cheap brothels sit “cats” - local pimps. In addition to their strict protective function, they also supervise children while mothers are busy serving clients.
Brothels merge with slums, and, in the end, you can never distinguish a respectable Muslim from a Bombay tycoon.

But is it enough for one day? Unnoticed, 6 o’clock in the evening came, and it was time for Sasha and Ira to go to the bus station and back to a cozy hotel in Goa. They categorically reject all my offers to stay for a day and only ask to accompany them to the bus. We pay Fazil - a six-hour all-inclusive excursion cost us 30 US dollars. But in Bombay there is no need to look for miracles - at the station of the ultra-modern city train we find ourselves in the epicenter of a gypsy camp. Under no circumstances should you give money, because at the sight of banknotes these gypsies go berserk and start tearing you apart (I had this experience in the south of India, in Madurai).
By the way, there are traces of Bollywood influence here. The whole city is plastered with such posters, and any European who wants can act as an extra and will receive 10 dollars for it. But Sasha and Ira don’t want to act as extras, they want to go to a hotel!
First class on the train is cozy and cool. We have been driving for about 40 minutes, and Sasha and I are cheerfully drinking a bottle of Indian rum, so to speak, for disinfection.
The usual welcoming crowd at the bus station!
Wonderful gypsies sit by the bus, but all this, although it looks scary from the outside, does not carry any aggression - so you walk in the middle of such bedlam and, of course, you don’t feel comfortable, but it doesn’t cause much tension either.
But the sleeping places in Indian buses are still not for Russian people. But okay, I escorted Ira and Sasha back to Bombay the same way.
It’s sunset on the beach and crowds of Indians eat and drink after work, but they’re afraid to swim because they don’t know how to swim and they believe that an evil miracle Yudo lives in the ocean. I didn’t go swimming, because I didn’t want to return to the hotel naked later.
Well, the end of this extraordinary day at the computer. Photos must be selected as soon as possible, because new ones will be added tomorrow. While doing this I fall asleep without even noticing it.

Mumbai (until 1996 the city was called Bombay) is the economic and financial capital of India. The main bank of the country is located here - the Reserve Bank of India, the Bombay Stock Exchange, the headquarters of many large Indian companies (Tata Group, Reliance Industries Ltd., Mahindra and Mahindra), commercial banks, as well as representative offices of a large number of transnational corporations. Mumbai is a major hub for international transport routes. Having a deep natural harbor, being the most big port in western India. Mumbai is the center of the entertainment industry: it is home to most of India's television and satellite networks, as well as India's dream factory, Bollywood.

Attractions

Elephanta Island.

One of the main attractions of Western India. The small island, located in the Bay of Bombay (10 km from Mumbai), received its name from the stone figure of an elephant carved into the rock, which was transported to Bombay in 1864.

There is a temple on the island, built between 450 and 750 AD. AD, dedicated to the god of the Indian pantheon Shiva. A long, wide stone staircase (approximately 90 m) leads to the place where this temple is located, consisting of four caves. In the main cave there is a relief image (about 6 m high) of the trinity of Indian gods: Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The vault is supported by 42 massive columns, and the side walls are decorated with relief images of scenes from the myths of Shiva. The entrance to the temple is guarded by eight figures of mythical guards carved from stone.

From others sculptural compositions Of interest are the “Arddhanariswar” (where one side of Shiva’s body is made as a man’s and the other as a woman’s), the wedding scene of Shiva and Parvati, the dance of Shiva shaking the world. Also worthy of attention is the sculpture of the demon Ravana, who is trying to destroy the abode of the gods, Mount Kailash.

Gateway of India.

Located at the end of the street named after. Shivaji (Maratha national hero). This massive arch, which was officially opened in 1924, is located on the embankment of the Mumbai creek. Designed by J. Whittet, it was built in honor of the visit of King George V to India in 19110. and symbolized the inviolability of British rule. It is notable for the fact that in 1947 British troops passed through it as they left India after the country gained independence. Near the India Gate there is an equestrian statue of Shivaji, erected in 1960, as well as the Royal Bombay Yacht Club building, which was built in 1898 in the Gothic style.

Taj Mahal Hotel.

Located next to India Gate. The hotel building was built in 1903 by the famous industrialist J.N. Tata according to the design of W. Chambers. The hotel is also notable for being home to the first Russian diplomatic mission in India. Now it is one of the best five-star hotels in the city, where a large number of cultural and business events take place.

Museum named after Chattrapati Shivaji.

The museum, also known as the Prince of Wales Museum, was built to commemorate King George V's first visit to India in 1905, who laid the foundation stone for the museum. In 1923 it was opened to the public. The museum building is made in the Indo-Moorish style. The exhibition has three main sections: art, archeology and natural history. The collection is based on the holdings of the Royal Asiatic Society. Subsequently, the museum's collection was constantly replenished with works of art and historical valuables donated by representatives of India's financial and industrial elite. In particular, the Tata family made a great contribution to the development of the museum.

The ground floor gallery houses sculptures by local artists and a rich collection of Indian birds. On the second floor there are various objects of art, including paintings, dishes, weapons, etc. On the third floor there is a wonderful collection of Indian miniatures.

The entire exhibition occupies 18 halls on three floors and includes more than 6 thousand exhibits. Main halls: ancient and ancient history, Assyrian palace bas-reliefs, Indian sculpture, Indian bronze sculpture, Nepalese and Tibetan art, European painting, art of the peoples of the Far East.

Station named after Chhatrapati Shivaji.

Station named after Ch. Shivaji, previously known as the station named after. Queen Victoria, is considered one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in the city. Finally built in 1888, it was originally designed by the English architect F. Stevens as the headquarters Railway company Hindustan. Included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.

Bombay University.

The university, which is one of the oldest universities in India, was founded by the British in 1857 (at the same time as the Universities of Calcutta and Madras). Now it has 46 faculties, including the Russian language faculty, and unites 338 colleges. More than 380 thousand students study at the university and colleges.

In one of the university buildings there are Big hall with a circular stained glass window depicting the signs of the zodiac, and a university library with spiral steps and colorful galleries. The building is crowned by an 80-meter clock tower, reminiscent of London's Big Ben.

Jyotiba Mahatma Phule Market.

This is Mumbai's largest indoor food market. Better known as Crawford Market, it was built in 1869 with the participation of the father of the famous English writer R. Kipling. It is believed that Kipling the Elder is the author of the bas-reliefs on the market building. On the opposite side of the street, in the depths of the garden, the Kipling house, where the writer spent his childhood, has been preserved.

Mumbai Stock Exchange.

The modern high-rise exchange building, also known as the Bombay Stock Exchange, is located on Dalal Road. The exchange was founded in 1875 as the Stock Brokers Association and is the oldest exchange not only in India but also in Asia.

Flora's Fountain.

This fountain is located at the intersection of the most important streets in the southern part of the city on the site of the gates of the English fort that were previously located there. It was built in 1869 in honor of B. Frere, the Governor of Bombay.

Asiatic Society building.

This large white building with columns used to house the municipality. It was then given to the Asiatic Society and now houses an extensive library. Next to it is the building of the old mint, built in 1828, and not far from it is the old customs house (1720).

Afghan church.

The church was built in 1847 in memory of British military , who died during the Sindhi campaign of 1838 and the Afghan war of 1843.

Cathedral of St. Thomas.

Anglican Cathedral of St. Thomas at the intersection of the streets. The Nariman and Cowasjee Patel Veer is the oldest English building in Mumbai.

Marine Drive.

This crescent-shaped promenade stretches along the entire Back Bay and is considered one of the best places for walking.

Chowpatty beach.

Located at the beginning of Marine Drive. This sand beach is one of the favorite pastime places for city residents. He is also known for witnessing a number of events Indian history. Thus, during the struggle for independence, it was there that one of the largest anti-English protests began. In 1920, the prominent leader of the national liberation movement Bal Gangadhar Tilak was cremated here, and a monument to him was erected on the beach.

Taraporevala Aquarium.

Built in 1961, the aquarium is located on Marine Drive and has a rich collection of freshwater and oceanic fish and shells.

Malabar Hill.

Some parts of this hill in one of the most famous areas of the southern part of the city offer wonderful views of Mumbai. In addition, there are a number of attractions here, including the Hanging Gardens, famous for their collection of plants. Next to them, covered with dense foliage of trees, are the so-called. towers of silence, where Parsis (immigrants from Persia, followers of Zoroastrianism) used to bury their dead. According to their religion, water, fire and earth are sacred and cannot be desecrated by the bodies of the dead, therefore it is customary among the Parsis to give corpses to be eaten by vultures, placing them on the tops of these towers. On the same street as the Hanging Gardens, one of the best parks in the city, built in 1952, is located - the park named after. Kamala Nehru. In the southern part of the hill is the Raj Bhavan, the residence of the Governor of Maharashtra.

Mahalakshmi Temple.

Located in the prestigious Breach Candy area, located at the foot of Malabar Hill, this famous temple is dedicated to the Hindu goddess of prosperity, Mahalakshmi.

Mausoleum of Hadji Ali.

Built a few tens of meters from the shore on the site of the death of a Muslim saint named Haji Ali, in whose honor it was erected. It is connected to the shore by a long passage, which sometimes goes under water at high tide.

Siddhivinayaka Temple.

One of the main Hindu temples in Mumbai is located in the Prabha Devi area. Dedicated to the god of the Hindu pantheon, Ganesha, whose statue, made of black stone, is located inside.

Mani bhavan.

In this house, located near August Kranti Square, from 1917 to 1934. M. Gandhi's headquarters was located in Bombay, where in 1931 and 1934. Important meetings of the working committee of the Indian National Congress took place. It was here that on January 4, 1932, M. Gandhi was arrested by the British authorities.

The library located on the ground floor of the museum contains more than 30 thousand volumes of M. Gandhi's works, books about his life, as well as studies on the philosophy of Gandhism by Indian and foreign authors. On the second floor there is an auditorium where visitors can watch films about M. Gandhi or listen to recordings of his speeches. The room on the third floor gives museum guests a complete picture of the conditions in which M. Gandhi lived and worked; its furnishings and furniture are as close as possible to the original ones. The museum also houses an exhibition of sculptures by M. Gandhi and a small art gallery with a rich collection of photographs, letters, articles and documents, including manuscripts of M. Gandhi and his associates.

Kanheri Caves.

Kanheri Caves are located 45 km from historical center Mumbai, in one of the most attractive locations National Park them. S. Gandhi. These are 109 caves of various sizes, carved out of stone during the period from the 1st century. BC e. to the 9th century n. e. From the point of view of the development of Buddhist culture, the history of the creation of caves can be divided into three stages: the first stage covers the end of the 1st-2nd centuries. BC, second – IV-V centuries. AD and the third stage – IV-IX centuries. AD In their design, the Kanheri caves reflect two directions of Buddhism - “Hinayana” and “Mahayana”.

The caves were used by Buddhist monks for housing, study and as places for prayer and meditation. The high architectural level of the cave temples gives visitors a clear idea of ​​the existence in Kanheri of a highly organized settlement of Buddhist monks who had well-developed connections with many of the major trading centers of India. In the mid-70s, Indian scientists discovered evidence that the Kanheri cave monastery was a major center of learning.

The most interesting is cave No. 3, the largest in size and original in design, attracting attention with its high colonnade and architectural style.

Mumbai is the largest among Indian cities; Indian flavor and the architectural heritage of the British are closely intertwined on its vast territory. Those who want to plunge into the world of new experiences, enjoy the atmosphere of a large city and at the same time see ancient sights should consider a trip to this unique Indian Manhattan. Features of holidays in Mumbai in 2019, attractions, entertainment and prices, you can learn from the article in order to better plan your trip to this stunning city.

Brief historical background

The history of settlement of this area goes back deep into the Stone Age. The settlements were located on seven islands. During the colonization of India, at the very beginning of the 16th century, a Portuguese settlement was founded here.

In the 17th century, the islands became a dowry for a princess who was married to the King of England, and the enterprising ruler leased them to the East India Company. At this time, Mumbai harbor became an important point on the maps of merchants, and the military was also based here. In the last third of the 17th century, the city became similar to the one that stands here to this day. Then it was called Bombay - this name thundered throughout the world.

In subsequent centuries, the city's infrastructure developed: roads were built, industrial enterprises appeared, and transport developed. Thus, at the beginning of the 20th century the city became a million-plus population. Residents of the city actively participated in the movement for the independence of the country, and in the middle of the century locality finally became Indian.

Planning a trip to Mumbai: transport and accommodation

How to get there and how to get around?

Air travel is the only option to get from Russia to Mumbai. A one-way ticket will cost at least 170 euros. There are no direct flights. Depending on which company's flight the flight is carried out on, the transfer may be in Istanbul, Arabian Dubai or other cities. international Airport Chhatrapati Shivaji is the leader among Indian airports in terms of the number of flights received and passenger traffic. It consists of two terminals located one kilometer from each other. Free shuttles are a means of transporting passengers between terminals. Terminal 1 serves domestic flights, Terminal 2 serves international flights.

By the way, each of the terminals, in turn, is divided into two parts.

Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is 30 km from the city. The most convenient way to get to the center of Mumbai is by taxi.

Payment in a taxi is possible only in cash in national currency, and in international terminal There are no ATMs. Therefore, it is worth making a preliminary exchange at the airport exchange offices.

  • Option 1: Order a car at a special counter in the airport building. The cost of the trip is paid immediately.
  • Option 2: Use a metered airport taxi. The benefit compared to the first option will only be in case of a long trip.
  • Option 3: Catch a taxi on the street. The cost of the trip will depend on your bargaining ability.

An alternative to a taxi is to take a bus to the Vile Parle railway station, then take a train to the central part of the city. You should not use this option in the morning and evening hours, when the trains are very crowded. The ticket class must be at least first if you want to travel comfortably.

How to get around the city?

Mumbai Metro is a popular way to travel local population and an attraction for tourists. The train consists of first and second class carriages. A second class ticket costs INR 10 and a first class ticket costs INR 80. There are special carriages for women and men.

A more comfortable way to travel is by taxi. And for those traveling in a large group - it’s also cheaper. So, a trip along a route of 20 kilometers will cost about 350 rupees.

Besides these, Mumbai has buses, rickshaws and water transport. It is worth traveling by bus if you plan to leave the city or go to another locality. A motorized rickshaw is a unique way to move around the city with interest during the trip itself, but you should remember that not all drivers have a clear conscience, so it is worth agreeing on the price clearly and in advance. You can take a ride on water transport to admire the city from the water and listen to a guided tour.

Where to stay and where is the best place to live?

Previously, the city consisted of 7 separate islands, which were later united into one settlement with centralized management.

Areas of modern Mumbai:

  1. South Mumbai is the oldest district where elite housing of the richest Indians is concentrated, interesting tourist sites, museums, exhibitions, and restaurants are collected. This area is the commercial center of the country.
  2. The southern center of Mumbai - office buildings, the only tourist attraction is the zoo.
  3. North Central Mumbai is a middle-class and immigrant residential area.
  4. The outskirts in the west are a residential area of ​​wealthy Indians, there are several beaches.
  5. The central area is a residential area, unremarkable for tourists.
  6. The harbor area is Mumbai's atomic research centre.
  7. North Mumbai – beaches that are clean by Indian standards, ancient temples.

Mumbai is full of establishments hotel business for every taste. India is popular among tourists who love adventure and are willing to sacrifice the European level of comfort in order to save money and see more interesting places. And in Mumbai it is quite possible to stay in an inexpensive hostel, where a night will cost about 500 rubles. However, not everyone wants to sacrifice comfort.

There are also mid-price establishments in the city: a night in a three-star hotel in the city center will cost approximately 1,500 rubles per person. Finally, there are some amazing five star hotels, not many in India but Mumbai has a good selection. So, in the city center you can stay in a hotel international network, where there will be a rooftop bar, a swimming pool, a spa and fitness center, as well as European level of comfort in the rooms. This will cost the traveler approximately 10,000 rubles per day.

Travel to Mumbai: where to go, what to do and what to see?

Attractions in Mumbai

Variety is what makes holidays in Mumbai, India different in 2019. For connoisseurs of Indian culture, architecture and history, sights of various types are presented here.

First of all, it is worth remembering that this is a city with an ancient history, with stunning nature, and therefore in Mumbai there are many standing places for visiting by tourists.

Definitely worth a visit Elephanta Island, famous for its cave temples and annoying monkeys. A trip as part of an excursion will cost 2000 rupees. You can get there on your own by tourist ferry for 160 rupees. It departs from the pier near the India Gate monument. Caves on the island are included in the list world heritage UNESCO, where you can admire stone sculptures and rock paintings, the earliest of which date back to the 5th century.

Historical Quarter Kala Goda– a must-see place for lovers of museums and exhibitions. The most popular and largest museum is the Prince of Wales Museum with an attached gallery - a venue for exhibitions of Indian artists. In addition, this quarter will appeal to all lovers of colonial architecture; it is the center of the architecture of this period.


It's worth admiring buildings of the University of Mumbai and the Supreme Court. The University of Mumbai was built in the 19th century and is currently one of the most prestigious in the country. It is of interest from an architectural point of view: the monumental building is decorated with elegant, carved decorative elements. A Supreme Court somewhat reminiscent of a medieval castle, only it is surrounded by a park with palm trees - a suitable place for walks in the hottest hours.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Railway Station, formerly known as Victoria Station, is more reminiscent of a palace. This example of Victorian Gothic architecture has been active since the 1990s. The neo-Gothic foundation is complemented by Indo-Saracenic elements; the station is not only worth using for its intended purpose, but you can simply admire it.

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, whose construction began at the end of the 19th century, has rich history and is an example of a successful mixture of Indian, Florentine, Moorish and Victorian styles. Now it is one of the most luxurious hotels in the whole world. By the way, you can still stay there - for about 11,000 rubles per day per person.

India Gate Arch was erected at the beginning of the 20th century in honor of the visit of the British royal family.

If you get tired of contemplating majestic buildings, then you can go closer to nature. Malabar Hill, with those located there hanging gardens, Jogeshwari caves and a host of other interesting sites is a great place to visit on a hot day.

You can get to Malabar along the beautiful and distinctive embankment of Mumbai - Marina drive. It's always crowded here. But it looks especially picturesque at sunset, when the sun’s disk descending behind the Malabar Hill is reflected in the sea, and sellers of various snacks and local residents flock to the embankment.

Hanging Gardens of Mumbai were also created by the British, and therefore represent an interesting example of landscape design. Well-groomed bushes and flower beds, gazebos are surrounded by flowering vegetation. In the gardens you can see bright fluttering butterflies. In turn, the Jogeshwari caves are in complete contrast to the well-kept gardens: these are ancient caves containing dilapidated sculptures from around the 6th century.

Hunters of unique footage should definitely visit Jobi Ghat block, where thousands of women wash clothes in concrete baths standing close to each other. True, a very aggressive washing method, which involves hitting soaped laundry on a special sharp stone for many hours, is quite consistent with a similar attitude towards tourists. It is better not to come close to laundresses. A suitable place for shooting is the nearest bridge.

For those who love Indian culture, however, not in such an exotic version, there is an opportunity to penetrate Bollywood. This is a huge film studio, the name of which has probably been heard by almost every person, and even more so by those who are interested in cinema. For several years now, the film studio's pavilions have been accessible to tourists. It is worth purchasing an excursion, which will cost about 3,000 rubles, and the guides will take you among the stunning scenery, tell the history of Indian cinema, and allow you to admire the filming process.

Entertainment in Mumbai

The city is located on the shores of the Arabian Sea, and therefore several beach activities are available here. There is Chowpati Beach, where swimming is prohibited, but you can ride a jet ski, go parasailing or go on a cruise along the bay. The prices for such attractions are not the lowest. Parasailing, duration 3 minutes, will cost 2500 rupees. You will have to pay 1900 rupees for a 10-minute jet ski ride.

For a beach holiday in Mumbai, you can go to the small island of Manori. If the beaches within the city are not clean, then here you can sunbathe, have a picnic or have lunch in a cafe or restaurant. However, it’s still not worth swimming, since there are quite a lot of fragments of corals and stones in the local waters.
However, there is no need to despair: you can go to the Esselworld water park and amusement park. A ticket to this establishment will cost approximately 600 rupees for an adult and 400 rupees for a child. It is located on the shores of Manori Bay. The water park has a swimming pool for kids, extreme slides, and a kind of “sea” with waves.

Those interested in science can head to the Nehru Center and Planetarium. The ticket price will be only 50 rupees for an adult and 25 rupees for a child. Currently, this center is a large educational complex where you can listen to shows in English.

Those who love shopping will love Mumbai. Having previously been a center of trade, the city remains so to this day. You can buy branded items in boutiques and shopping centers, or you can visit the Indian market. Fashion Street is the most the best place for the “European type of shopping”, and for some flavor you can go to the Chor Bazaar, Zaveri Bazaar, Crawford Market and others. What to bring from Mumbai? These can be souvenirs and gifts such as:

  • bronze products;
  • silk products;
  • incense, spices;
  • Ayurvedic cosmetics and medicines;
  • Indian tea or rum.

Mumbai is so Big City that you can easily find a restaurant of almost any cuisine.

Traditional dishes are South Indian cuisine: puri flatbreads, dosa pancakes, an abundance of vegetarian dishes. The Mumbai chicken curry is also a must try. A snack in a street cafe will cost about 150 rubles; dinner for two with alcohol will cost about 1,000 rubles in an average restaurant.

The only disadvantage of Mumbai is that it is not highly recommended for families with small children. Noise and commotion on the streets, abundance of industrial production, lack of comfortable beach holiday. Yes, middle-aged and older children will quite like the city, since they can already appreciate the unusual surroundings and attractions, but children may not be so comfortable and interesting here.

In general, a holiday in Mumbai is a good experience of getting acquainted with Indian culture and the architectural heritage left to Indians by the British. To visit Mumbai in 2019, it is better to set aside a few days to experience the local flavor of the city and get acquainted with all the sights.