The mountain is a cone extinct volcano, which last erupted at the beginning of our era. The height of the western peak of Elbrus is 5642 meters, the eastern one is 5621 meters, the peaks are separated by a deep saddle (5325 meters). According to legend, it was here that the Argonauts' search for the Golden Fleece led them, and here the titan Prometheus was chained for daring to bring fire to people.

Legendary mountain

The mountain, formed about a million years ago, consists of alternating layers of lava, ash and tuff. The slopes of Elbrus are mostly gentle, but starting from a height of 4000 meters the average angle of inclination reaches 35 degrees, and the peaks are covered with a dense cap of perennial snow - firn and eternal ice. Several dozen glaciers with a total area of ​​134 square meters descend from them in all directions. km.

The most famous are Big and Small Azau, Irik, Terskol. IN powerful glaciers Elbrus originates from the rivers Kyukyurtlyu, Ullu-Khurzuk, Ullu-Kam, which, merging, form the Kuban, the most big river in the North Caucasus. Kuban can be called the daughter of Elbrus.

The legendary mountain has always attracted people with its mysterious beauty. The northern and western slopes are strewn with steep rocky areas up to 700 meters high. The eastern and southern ones are more gentle and even. The sparkling glaciers of the southern side of the Elbrus region have been chosen by skiers and climbers since Soviet times. The longest trails on the mountain: Azau - Stary Kruzor - 2.5 km, Stary Kruzor - Mir - 2 km. The season in the Elbrus region lasts from December to March.

Up to an altitude of 4000 meters, the slopes of Elbrus are relatively gentle, but above that they become steep.

The Adyl-Su, Adyr-Su and Shkheldy gorges are especially popular among climbers in Russia and the former USSR republics.

Conquest of Elbrus

The history of the conquest of Elbrus goes back almost 200 years. The first to determine its height was the Russian academician Vikenty Vishnevsky in 1813.

And the first recorded ascent of Elbrus, the eastern peak, was made in 1829 under the leadership of the hero of the Napoleonic War and conqueror of the Caucasus, General George Emmanuel. The expedition's auxiliary service consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 line Cossacks, as well as local guides.

The expedition included geophysicist and founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg, academician Adolf Kupfer, physicist Emilius Lenz, founder of the Russian Entomological Society, zoologist Eduard Menetrier, botanist Karl Meyer, who later became director of the Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences, artist-architect Joseph Bernardazzi and Hungarian scientist Janos Besse.

Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Menetrier, Bernardazzi, 20 Cossacks and guides took part directly in the ascent. However, lack of experience and poor quality of climbing equipment forced most of the participants to turn back.

According to some sources, the first to climb the eastern peak at about 11 a.m. was the Karachai guide Kilar Khachirov, according to others, it was a Kabardian guide.

From the memoirs of Adolf Kupfer: “Only the next day - July 23 - at noon, the Hungarian traveler de Bess noticed through a telescope on the sparkling covers of Elbrus four people who were trying to reach the top of the mountain. Three of them soon disappeared from sight, the fourth rose higher and higher - and suddenly his figure was outlined in relief above the very crown of Elbrus. He was, as it turned out later, a Kabardian Kilyar, a native of Nalchik.”.

This event was marked by a rifle salute in the camp.

By order of General Emmanuel, in memory of this outstanding event, the following text was carved on the rock: “During the reign of All-Russian Emperor Nicholas I, cavalry general Georgy Emmanuel, commander of the troops on the Caucasian line, camped here from July 20 to July 23, 1829. With him were: his son Georgy, fourteen years old, academicians sent by the Russian Government: Kupfer, Lenz, Menetrier, Meyer, an official of the mining corps Vansovich, an architect Mineralnye Vody Joseph Bernardazzi and the Hungarian traveler Ivan de Bess. The Academicians and Bernardazzi, leaving the camp located eight thousand feet (1143 fathoms) above the sea surface, climbed Elbrus to fifteen and a half thousand feet (2223 fathoms) on the twenty-second. Only the Kabardian Kilyar reached the top. Let this modest stone pass on to posterity the names of those who first paved the way to reach Elbrus, which until now was considered impregnable.”.

The information that Emmanuel's expedition conquered Elbrus was not known abroad, therefore, when the Englishman Douglas Freshfield climbed the mountain in 1868, it was regarded as a first ascent. The highest peak of Elbrus (western) was conquered by a team of climbers led by Florence Grove in 1874.

First geographic map Elbrus was compiled in 1890 by Russian military topographer Andrei Pastukhov, who made the first ascent without guides. Rocks at an altitude of 4800 meters now bear his name.

It is believed that the first person to reach both peaks was the Balkar hunter and shepherd Ahiya Sottaev. He climbed Elbrus nine times, the last time in 1909, when he was 121 years old.

During Soviet times, mountaineering became widespread. According to the Society of Proletarian Tourism, from 1829 to 1914, 59 ascents of Elbrus were made, 47 of them by foreigners. And in one year, 1935, Soviet climbers climbed Elbrus 2016 times.

Elbrus was the center of attention during the Great Patriotic War - it became the scene of fierce confrontation. Units of the German mountain rifle division "Edelweiss" also took part in the battles. During the Battle of the Caucasus on August 21, 1942, after occupying the Krugozor and Shelter of the Eleven mountain bases, German alpine riflemen managed to install German banners on the western peak of Elbrus. But by the middle of the winter of 1942–1943, German troops were driven out from the slopes of Elbrus, and on February 13 and 17, 1943, our climbers climbed both peaks, where Soviet flags were hoisted.

Elbrus today

Today Elbrus is one of the most popular ski resorts Russian resorts, Mecca for snowboarders, freeriders and climbers.

The Elbrus region is also interesting for nature lovers. One of the most striking representatives of the animal world of this region is the Caucasian tur, which lives at altitudes from 1200 to 3400 meters above sea level. Turs come at night to graze in the alpine meadows, where bluegrass, foxtail, fescue, and buckwheat grow. In winter, aurochs feed on mosses, lichens, and tree bark. In the most inaccessible places, along with aurochs, chamois are found. In the lowlands of mountain forests you can find roe deer, which belongs to the deer family. In the Elbrus region, an attempt was made to adapt a herd of Central Asian yaks, but the experiment failed. Wolves also live here, but there is no need to be afraid of them; there have been no cases of wolves attacking either skiers or climbers.

Although the Elbrus volcano has not been visible for almost two thousand years, scientists consider it not extinct, but dormant. In its depths there are still hot masses that heat the local “hot narzans” - springs saturated with mineral salts and carbon dioxide, the temperature of which reaches +52 and +60 ºС. The life of many famous springs originated in the depths of Elbrus health resorts Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk and the entire Caucasian Mineral Waters region.

Elbrus is the highest peak in Russia. It is located in the North Caucasus, where the border between Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia passes. Immediate big cities– Mineralnye Vody, Nalchik, Pyatigorsk. Elbrus is considered a standard of natural beauty and a symbol of a healthy lifestyle. Recently, the legendary peak became a laureate of the “7 Wonders of Russia” competition.

Anatomy of Elbrus

From the outside, Elbrus resembles a Bactrian camel, since it has two peaks at once. One is only two dozen meters higher than the other. The western one reaches a height of 5642 m. The eastern one is slightly lower - 5621 m. From a distance it seems that they are located very close to each other. In fact, there is almost a kilometer and a half between them. The peaks are separated by the so-called Elbrus saddle. The average steepness of the rocks is 350.

There is an honorary world ranking called the “Seven Summits”. It includes the highest mountains from six parts of the world. Elbrus is the leader in Europe. Mont Blanc takes second place. He lags behind his Caucasian competitor by as much as 832 m! The nuance is that there are several methods for determining the border between Europe and Asia. Elbrus is considered “European” if it is carried out along the Greater Caucasus Range. Due to uncertainty, both peaks – Elbrus and Mont Blanc – were included in the rating.

Photo: Once upon a time fiery lava flowed along the slopes of Elbrus

From a geological point of view, Elbrus is a typical stratovolcano, which is characterized by a conical shape. Its thickness consists of layers of solidified lava and volcanic ash. Three million years ago, real hell reigned in these places. In total, Elbrus erupted for almost 250 thousand years! Looking at the peaceful peak today, it’s hard to believe. The last burst of volcanic activity occurred about 80 thousand years ago. By human standards this is a huge period, but by geological standards it is an instant. Some scientists believe that the volcano is still awaiting a surge in activity.

There is no bad weather

The Elbrus region is characterized by sudden changes in weather. On average, cycles last about a week. Good weather gives way to bad weather, then idyll reigns again. In the first half of summer, rain is a frequent visitor. At an altitude of up to 2000 m, the maximum temperature can reach +35. The average temperature is much lower. It decreases further with height. However, this is enough to slightly melt the glaciers. They are the ones who give rise to such large rivers like Kuban, Malka and Baksan.

Autumn in the mountains begins in the second half of August, and winter at an altitude of more than 2000 m can come as early as October. The average January temperature is -12, but drops sharply with altitude. Because of this, Elbrus is called “Little Antarctica”. For every 200 m of ascent, the temperature decreases by one degree. In winter there is severe frost at the top. The temperature can drop to -40, and the wind speed, on the contrary, can increase to 40 m/sec! Such harsh conditions prevail at altitudes above 4000 m.

Most snow falls on the southern slopes. The northern side is less snowy. The average thickness of snow cover is 0.8 meters. The beginning of spring in the mountains occurs in the first half of May. During this period, at an altitude of up to 3000 m, the snow actively melts and comes down in the form of wet avalanches. All year round The danger is the bright sun. To save yourself from an overdose of ultraviolet radiation, you need to have a protective cream and dark glasses.

Photo: Most snow falls on the southern slopes

Climatic conditions determine the specifics of the fauna and flora of the Elbrus region. The mountains are home to Caucasian aurochs, chamois, and roe deer. There are wild boars at the foot. If you're lucky, you might see yaks on the slopes. They tried to breed them artificially, but the experiment was unsuccessful. In the forests there are moose, jackals, wolves, and foxes. The belt of alpine meadows is favored by the Caucasian grouse, mountain turkey, stone partridge, as well as feathered predators - black vulture, eaglet, golden eagle and others. You should be wary of vipers, although the mountaineers claim that meeting one is lucky!

Why Elbrus?

Names are given by people, so Elbrus remained nameless for a long time after its birthday. With the advent of people, the mountain received several names at once. This is due to the fact that they were invented by representatives of different tribes who did not have writing and did not communicate with each other. The Kabardino-Balkarians called it “Mingi tau” - “Eternal Mountain”. In Kumyk, her name sounded like “Askhar-tau” - “ snow mountain aces." The Adyghe people called it “Kuskhemakha” - “Mountain that brings happiness.”

By official version the word "Elbrus" comes from the Persian "al-borji", which means "heaving". At least on the territory of modern Iran there is a mountain called Elborz. In the Ossetian language there is the word “albors” - high mountain. Georgians call “snow mane” “yalbuz”. Apparently, over time the names merged and transformed. This is how the “arithmetic mean” Elbrus appeared.

Photo: Elbrus region - the territory of traditions and legends

As with any cult place, many legends are associated with Elbrus. Some of them explain the presence of two peaks. It is believed, for example, that they owe their appearance to Noah, who, during the Flood, touched the top with his ark and split it in two. To repair the damaged ship, he tried to land on the mountain, but was unable to do so. Then Noah cursed her, wishing her eternal winter. Since then, the two peaks of Elbrus have always been covered with ice and snow.

Brief history of ascents

Just as a prospector dreams of finding the largest nugget, climbers have always dreamed of conquering Elbrus. And they not only dreamed, but also conquered. Scientists became the pioneers. This happened in July 1829. Then the mountain peak was stormed by such famous personalities as the creator of the St. Petersburg geophysical observatory, Adolf Kupfer, and physicist Emilius Lenz. Even the botanist Karl Meyer and the artist Joseph Bernardazzi became climbers for a while!

The expedition was led by General George Emmanuel. Then he commanded the Caucasian fortified area. The event was purely scientific in nature. The ascent was supported by 650 soldiers and 350 Cossacks. Scientists, guides and 20 Cossacks took part directly in the assault on Elbrus. Only four reached the Eastern peak. And the Western Peak was first climbed only in 1874.

Photo: General George Emmanuel

Forty years later, Elbrus submitted to the English climbers. Then came the era of records. The German Merzbacher and the Austrian Purtscheller climbed to the top in just eight hours! In 1925, the first woman reached the summit. Since the middle of the 20th century, climbers have become widespread. And now the folk trail does not overgrow here. Elbrus beckons and attracts like a huge magnet.

There have been legendary cases in the history of conquests. So in 1974, three UAZ-469 SUVs rose to a height of 4200 meters! This was done without the help of winches. Since the air at such a height is very thin, the engines did not work at full capacity. Cars often got stuck in the snow. They had to be dug out with shovels. However, people and cars survived. A unique “ascent” has taken place!

Elbrus for skiers

If there are slopes and snow, then there is ski resorts. The Elbrus region is no exception in this regard. Ski resorts“Azau” and “Cheget” are located in the Elbrus region of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, 186 km from Mineralnye Vody. The Azau ski area is suitable for both beginners and experienced skiers. "Cheget" is more suitable for advanced "users".

The skiing season in the Elbrus region lasts from October to May. The high season is from February to April. In spring, people not only ski on the slopes, but also sunbathe. Skating on the glaciers is possible all year round.

Photo: The ski season lasts from October to May

On the slopes of “Azau” there are 3 routes: “Polyana Azau - Krugozor” (length - 5100 m, difficult), “Krugozor - Mir” (5110 m, medium), “Mir - Gara-Bashi” (2000 m, easy). The stations are located at altitudes from 2350 to 3847 m. It is possible to go higher, but for this you will have to use a snowcat. The elevation difference on the slopes is from 347 to 650 m. The total length of the slopes is 12.2 km, and the total elevation difference is 1497 m. The width of the slopes is from 60 to 80 m. The artificial snowmaking system allows you to ski up to 180 days a year.

The capacity of the lifts to the Mir station is 2400 people/hour, to Gara-Bashi – 1400 people/hour. From the Krugozor station you can clearly see the Baksan Valley. Above you will find a panorama of the Bolshoi Caucasian ridge. And from the maximum point - glaciers. The Gara-Bashi station “floats” above the clouds and is considered the highest in Europe. Lift operating hours are from 9:00 to 17:00. Get up until 16:00.

There are eight types of ski passes on sale - from a one-time lift to a six-day pass. Children under 6 years old have free entry to the ski lifts. On weekends, the cost of a ski pass increases by an average of 20%. In the period from 22.05 to 01.12, summer tariffs apply, providing only one-time descent and ascent. At this time, not skiers, but climbers climb the mountains.

“Cheget” has more difficult conditions for skiing. Local trails are more difficult than many European ones. In 1963, skiers went up for the first time on a chairlift. Now there are 15 tracks on Cheget. They are laid at altitudes from 2100 to 3050 m. Their total length reaches 20 km. There are luxurious conditions for snowboarders and freeriders. The easiest route is at the top of the slope.

There are three lines of the cable car at Cheget. Single- and double-chair lifts operate from “Chegetskaya Polyana” to the “Cheget-2” station (2100-2750 m). You can get to the Cheget-3 station (2750-3000 m) by single-chair or drag lift. Up to the highest point (3070 m), only the rope tow operates. The resort offers two ski pass options - one-time and one-day. There are several hotels located on the Chegenskaya Polyana, in close proximity to the ski lifts.

The resorts have shops that sell everything you need for skiing. alpine skiing and snowboarding. Equipment rental is available. Beginners can hire an instructor. Excursions are organized for tourists. The main attractions are the Narzan Valley, Chegem waterfalls, the Bezengi glacier, Blue Lake, "Maiden's Braids" waterfall, national park"Elbrus region".

Currently, in the Elbrus region there are more than 70 accommodation sites, including mountain camps, guest houses, boarding houses and hotels. Accommodation costs may vary greatly depending on the services provided. In addition to hotels, you can stay in the private sector in the villages of Terskol, Baidaevo, Tegenekli, Elbrus, Neutrino. The price of housing falls in proportion to the distance from the ski lifts.

Photo: There are more than 70 accommodation places in the Elbrus region

Climbing routes

For beginners, climbing Elbrus along the southern slope is optimal. The route starts at Polyana Azau. The lift takes tourists to the Gara-Bashi station, located at an altitude of 3847 m, in one hour. Anyone can climb to the Oblique Shelf at an altitude of 5100 m by snowcat. For those who want to test themselves, it is better to overcome this stage on their own, without the use of technical means.

The southern route passes by Shelter 11 (4130 m) and Pastukhov Rocks (4700 m), which are named after the famous Russian climber Andrei Pastukhov. Next you will have to overcome the Col at an altitude of 5300 m. This part of the route is quite simple. But at the final stage you will have to work hard. To conquer Elbrus, you need to overcome a fairly steep climb. But the view from the Western peak is stunning!

The northern slope of the mountain is considered more difficult. The route is designed for trained climbers. Climbing to the top along the classic path of pioneers is not an easy task. This route is most often used to conquer the Eastern Peak. The glacier begins at an altitude of 3800 m, so you will need crampons here. At the Lenz Rocks at an altitude of 4800 m you will have to stop for a rest to acclimatize. Having gained strength and gotten used to the thin air, you can storm the summit.

WITH east side a route to Elbrus was laid along the Achkeryakol lava flow. This is a rather long and difficult climbing option. The route goes through Irik-Chat (3667 m) - one of the most beautiful passes in the Elbrus region. From here you have an excellent view of the lava flow and the Jikauchenquez ice plateau. The object of conquest is the Western Peak.

The name “Wild West” best suits the western slope of Elbrus. This is an option for extreme sports enthusiasts. Civilization has bypassed these places - there are no snowcats or ski lifts here. It is chosen by tourists in good physical shape, since all equipment from start to finish will have to be carried in backpacks. The victory is celebrated on the Western Peak.

For those who climb, there are shelters in the mountains. This is the name for places where you can hide from bad weather, relax, and spend the night. The first shelter on Elbrus appeared in 1909 at an altitude of 3200 m. It could accommodate only five people. In 1932, the “Shelter of the Eleven” appeared at an altitude of 4200 meters. It could already accommodate 40 people. Then the Saddle and Shelter of Nine shelters opened. They are still in effect today.

Of the new shelters, “Bochki” should be noted. A dozen six-bed cylindrical houses are located near the Gara-Bashi station at an altitude of 3847 m. Climbers have this very popular place start before the assault on Elbrus. Nearby are the Hassan shelter for 12 people and the Kotelnaya shelter, which accommodates up to 50 people. On the southern side there are shelters Shuvalova, “Maria” and “Esen”.

“LeapRus” is considered the highest mountain comfortable shelter. It is located on the southern slope at an altitude of 3900 m and can accommodate 48 people. It has all the delights of civilization - heating, hot water and lighting. Electricity for tourists is provided by solar panels.

Photo: High-level mountain hotel

Our tourist club offers the following programs for climbing Elbrus:

  • Climbing with tents from the north side to the eastern peak

How to get there

By plane you can get to Mineralnye Vody or Nalchik. From there, take a bus or taxi to Terskol, a village in Kabardino-Balkaria. It is considered a resort center. Organized tourists order transfers through travel agencies. The trip from Nalchik will take about 3 hours, from Mineralnye Vody - 4 hours.

There are railway stations in Nalchik, Pyatigorsk, Mineralnye Vody and Prokhladny. There is a daily train between Moscow and Nalchik. By train Moscow - Kislovodsk you will get to Mineralnye Vody or Pyatigorsk, and by train Moscow - Vladikavkaz - to Prokhladnaya station.

To major settlements The Elbrus region is walking intercity buses. In their cars, tourists travel to Elbrus through Krasnodar or Rostov-on-Don.

They say that Prometheus was chained to one of the rocks of this particular mountain because he gave fire to people. It was here, according to Homer, that Jason went for the Golden Fleece. There are also legends that it was Elbrus that was the first piece of Earth that Noah encountered after the Flood, and his ship literally hit the peak and split it.

The Elbrus stratovolcano is located at some distance from the Greater Caucasus Range (20 km to the north) and is highest point Russia. Since there is no clearly defined border between Asia and Europe, many believe that it is the highest mountain peak of the European continent, whose height is 5642 meters.

Elbrus was formed somewhat differently than the others Caucasus Mountains, of which it is a part: they appeared earlier, about 5 million years ago, and are folded in nature. And the volcano was formed later, about 1 million years ago, as a result of complex and long-term geological processes: first the western peak appeared, and then, on the eastern side of the side crater, a second cone began to form. Nowadays, the volcano is not active, but it cannot be called extinct either: manifestations of volcanic activity are still observed here.

What Elbrus looks like

The nature here is diverse: mountain meadows, rare plants and animals, coniferous forests, turbulent rivers leave no one indifferent, and some time ago the Elbrus National Park was created in the area of ​​the volcano, and therefore there is no hunting, no cutting down of forests, no construction here it is forbidden.

At the foot of Elbrus there is a huge number of extremely beautiful gorges, and on the northern side there is the famous Dzhyly-Su tract with mineral thermal springs and the most beautiful waterfalls with a height of 20 to 40 meters, among which the Sultan waterfall located in the upper reaches of the Malki River stands out.




On the slope of a mountain, at an altitude of about three hundred meters, is located huge size ice lake Jikaugenköz. In its middle part rises a reminiscent medieval castle Kalitsky Peak, whose height exceeds 3.5 km, where there is a site with religious sanctuaries, which were created from large stones.

The volcano itself looks like this:

  • Elbrus has two peaks, each of which represents two independent volcanoes, connected by a saddle, the height of which is 5.3 km. The distance between the peaks is about three kilometers;
  • The eastern, younger cone is slightly lower than the western one, and its height is 5621 m. It has a clearly defined crater with a diameter of 200 meters and a depth of about 80 m;
  • The height of the western peak of the almost extinct volcano is 5642 meters, the diameter of the crater is 600 meters, the depth is 300 m, and the upper part of the volcano is partially destroyed;
  • The slopes of the mountain are mostly gentle, but closer to the top, starting at 4 thousand km, the angle of inclination increases to 35 degrees;
  • On the northern and western side of Elbrus there is a huge number of sheer cliffs about 700 meters high;
  • Starting from a height of 3.5 km, the volcano is covered with rocks and glaciers; in total, there are about 70 glaciers on Elbrus, the area of ​​which exceeds 130 km². The water flowing from the glaciers of Elbrus creates three main streams that feed the main rivers of this region - Baksan, Kuban and Malka;
  • The surface of the volcano, free of glaciers, is covered with loose rocks;
  • Snow cover remains on the top of Elbrus throughout the whole year.


On the northern slope of the mountain, at an altitude of about 3 km, there is a Birjal lava tract with a huge number of remains of melted sand, which, under the influence of precipitation, weathering, and soil erosion, collapsed and created numerous piles of bizarre shapes, forming grottoes and caves. They hang over each other, forming bridges, arches, consoles and, diverging in different directions, taking on various bizarre shapes.

Volcano activity

It is believed that over the entire period of existence active volcano exhibited volcanic activity about four times, and the age of the oldest volcanic rocks of this mountain is about three million years.

The volcano showed its greatest volcanic activity about 225 thousand years ago, then its activity gradually subsided, and the last time it erupted about two thousand years ago (according to scientists, it was around 50 AD). Despite the fact that this eruption was not recorded anywhere, lava flows up to 24 km and 260 km long dating back to this period were discovered on the mountain. sq. volcanic debris, indicating that the emissions were quite strong.


Although the volcano has not been reminiscent of itself for an extremely long time, volcanologists consider it not extinct, but dormant (active), since it demonstrates active external and internal activity - primarily this is manifested in the release of sulfuric acid and chloride gases on the eastern slopes, as well as in the presence world famous minerals thermal springs“Hot Narzan”, the temperature of which reaches +52° C and +60º C (apparently, the magma chamber of the volcano is located at a depth of 6-7 km from the earth’s surface).

Many scientists agree that the volcano is unlikely to awaken in the next two or three centuries.

Some scientists believe that Elbrus may well become active already in this century (though not earlier than in fifty years), arguing their conclusions not only by the manifestation of fumarolic activity by the volcano, but also because of the colony of green mosses discovered on the western peak of the mountain. The ground temperature in this place was +21ºС, while the temperature indicators environment showed sub-zero temperature (-20º C).

Elbrus weather

Not everyone who starts climbing Elbrus will be able to conquer it, especially if he decides to do it in the off-season - in spring or autumn. Closer to the top, even well-prepared climbers can be stopped not only by the severe cold, but also by the terrifying strength of the wind, which knocks them down, gusts reaching 100 km/h.

The most stubborn can, despite the bad weather, reach a height of 4 thousand km, but such weather will stop anyone - snow, storm and temperature of minus thirty degrees; in these conditions, going up is extremely dangerous for life.


Since warm and humid Mediterranean and Black Sea cyclones meet cold Antarctic ones near Elbrus, the climate of Elbrus is extremely changeable: summer heat quickly gives way to bitter cold, and clouds in a few minutes can cover an entire mountain, hiding absolutely all landmarks - and the traveler will have to rely only on his instincts .

Moist air currents coming from the Black Sea cause numerous precipitation on Elbrus, mainly in the form of snow, which high altitude can fall out both at sub-zero and positive temperatures. The most precipitation falls here in summer and winter, which is why the most favorable time for climbing is November, when a constant dense snow cover is established, and winter.

The most dangerous period for climbing the volcano is the spring or autumn months: the weather at this time is bad and unstable, and the temperature at the peaks even in May can drop to -50 degrees Celsius. So, several years ago, a group of twelve climbers attempted to climb the volcano at the end of spring. But due to a sharp deterioration in the weather and loss of visibility, the climbers got lost, and then completely froze to death - only one person was able to go down.

Elbrus rescue station

To avoid such situations, it was decided to create a rescue shelter on Elbrus - work began in 2007 and was completed five years later. Construction was not easy, since materials and fastening systems had to be delivered to great heights, which was done using a helicopter. The shelter was first opened in 2010, but a month later a hurricane completely destroyed the building.


Considering the need for such a structure, it was decided to restore the shelter, but make it smaller and more wind-resistant - and by August 2012, the highest rescue shelter on the European continent was built on the saddle of Elbrus (5300 above sea level).

One of the main attractions of the Elbrus region is Mount Elbrus - the highest peak of Russia and Europe, located north of the Greater Caucasus Range on the border of two republics: Karachay-Cherkess and Kabardino-Balkarian.

Elbrus is a two-peaked extinct volcano. The height of the western peak is 5642 m above sea level, the eastern - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5300 m. The peaks are located at a distance of about 3 thousand m from each other. The main composition of the rocks is granites, gneisses, diabases and tuffs of volcanic origin.

Elbrus with two crater peaks was formed a million years ago during the creation of the Caucasus Range. Huge streams of ash mud rushed along the slopes of Elbrus, sweeping away all the stones and vegetation before them. Layers of lava, ash, and stones were layered on top of each other, thereby expanding the slopes of the volcano and increasing its height.

The scientific study of Mount Elbrus began in the 19th century. Russian researchers. The first person to determine the exact location and height of the mountain in 1913 was Academician V. Vishnevsky. In 1829, Mount Elbrus was visited by the first Russian scientific expedition, which included the famous Russian academician E. Lenz, Pyatigorsk architect Bernardazzi, botanist E. Meyer and others. The expedition was accompanied by General G. Emmanuel, the head of the Caucasian line. The first successful ascent to the western peak was made by a group of English climbers in 1874 under the leadership of F. Grove, its participant was A. Sottaev.

In 2008, Elbrus was recognized as one of the “7 Wonders of Russia”. Today Elbrus is the largest ski mountain in the world, as well as the most promising place for all-Russian and international competitions. Basically, the infrastructure is well developed on the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus, where there is a chairlift and a pendulum cableway leading to a parking lot called “Bochka” (at an altitude of 3750 m), which consists of 12 insulated six-seater residential trailers with a kitchen.

Elbrus is a mountain in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, located north of the Main Caucasus Ridge and is highest peak Russia and Europe.

Other names for Elbrus: Mingi-Tau - eternal mountain (Karachay-Balkar). Oshkhamakho - mountain of happiness (Adyghe). Jin Padishah - king of mountain spirits (Turkic). Albar (Albors) - tall; high mountain (Iranian). Yal-buz - mane of snow (Georgian). Uryushglyumos - mountain of the day. Kuska-maf is a mountain that brings happiness. Shat, Shat-mountain - “covered with snow” (Russian). Ash-gamakho - “sacred height” (Circassian). Uro-khoh - “white mountain” (Ossetian). Styr-khokh - “big, high mountain” (Ossetian).
Elbrus is a double-peaked cone of an extinct volcano. The Western peak has a height of 5642 m, the Eastern one - 5621 m. They are separated by a saddle - 5200 m and are approximately 3 km apart from each other. The total area of ​​Elbrus glaciers is 134.5 km2; the most famous of them: Big and Small Azau, Terskol. According to the mountaineering classification, Elbrus is rated as 2A snow-ice, the passage of both peaks is 2B.

On the slopes of Elbrus there is a pendulum and chairlift cable car, leading to an altitude of 3750 meters, where the Barrels shelter is located, which consists of twelve six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. Currently, this is the main starting point for those climbing to the top of the mountain. At an altitude of 4100 m is located the highest mountain hotel “Shelter 11”, which burned down at the end of the 20th century, on the basis of which the boiler room in given time A new building was rebuilt, also actively used by climbers.

Eastern peak of Elbrus from the Shelter of Eleven (route 2A).

From the village of Terskol, climb along the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately goes to the left side of the South-Eastern spur of the Elbrus massif in the Azau gorge and gradually rises to the “95th picket”, then to the “105th picket” and further to the Ice Base. Serpentine roads in many places, starting from the transformer booth near the village of Terskol, can be walked along the paths. From the village of Terskol 5 - 6 hours.

From the Ice Base there is a descent from the moraine onto the glacier, then a steep climb. Then go up the gentle snowy slope, gradually turning to the left, moving in a wide snow hollow to a place where the steepness of the slope increases sharply (up to 30 - 35°). Here turn left and, having traversed the snowy takeoff, after 300 - 350 m reach the rocky ridge on which the Shelter of the Eleven is located (there are cracks on the left along the ascent path). From the Ice Base 1.5 - 2 hours. In summer, the path from the Ice Base to the Shelter of the Eleven is usually marked with wooden poles every 40 - 60 m.

At the Shelter of Eleven, it is advisable to carry out a day of active acclimatization with access to the Pastukhov rocks.

From the Shelter of the Eleven (departure at 1 am) climb straight up to the left of a heavily snow-covered rock ridge, in the direction of the Eastern peak, to the left side of small rocky outcrops called Pastukhov rocks. From the Pastukhov rocks 300 - a 400-meter climb straight up, then, gradually turning left, go to the traverse of the slope and traverse to the saddles under the slopes of the Eastern peak. From the Shelter of Eleven to the saddle it takes 5 - 6 hours.
On the left, under the slopes of the Western peak, at the beginning of a huge snow trough leading to the saddle, there is a hut. 250 - 300 m above the hut, turn off the saddle to the right and climb the snowy slope with simple rocky outcrops to the shoulder rocks. From the shoulder along a wide horizontal plateau, access to the tour on the Eastern peak of the Elbrus massif - 5621 m. From the saddle 1 - 1.5 hours. The descent along the ascent path to the Shelter of the Eleven takes 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3 - 4 days.

Western peak of Elbrus from the Shelter of Eleven (route 2B).

The path from the village of Terskol from the saddle of Elbrus is described above.
80 - 100 m above the hut to the saddle, turn left and climb up and to the right along a steep snow-ice slope, crossing the slope, to the rocks of the shoulder of the Western peak. From the shoulder, along a wide plateau and simple snow-covered rocks, access to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif - 5633 m. From the saddle 1.5 - 2 hours.
The descent along the ascent path to the Shelter of the Eleven takes 3.5 - 4 hours. From the Shelter of Eleven to the village of Terskol 3 - 3.5 hours. The duration of the route is 3 - 4 days.

Western peak of Elbrus via the Western Shoulder (route 2B).

From the village of Terskol, climb first along the road, then along the path on the right side of the Azau gorge and after 4 hours exit to the original bivouac at Stary Krugozor, located on the southernmost (Southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From Krugozor (departure at 2 - 3 am) turn left and along the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier to the snow plateau. Along the plateau (closed cracks!), then along a small gentle snowy slope to reach a rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotyutau pass and the Bezymyanny peremetny glacier, descending into the Ullukam valley. From Stary Krugozor 4 - 4.5 hours.

Here turn right and follow the simple rocks of the ridge to the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the shallow glacier. Traverse this ridge and, along simple, sometimes moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge rising in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, climb the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. There is a bivouac in a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder. From the Hotyutau pass 3 - 5 hours.

From the saddle, climb to the Northeast along snow fields with a gradually increasing steepness, traverse to the left, bypassing the Western peak of Elbrus and exit under the Northwestern rock ridge of the Western peak. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow along the rocks, there is a steep climb to the Western peak of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder 5 - 6 o'clock.

Descent along the ascent path or through the saddle and the Shelter of the Eleven. The duration of the route is 4 days.

First ascent of Elbrus

Elbrus was first mentioned in the “Book of Victories” by the Persian historian Sherif ad-Din Yezdi, who writes that the Central Asian conqueror Timur (Tamerlane), during successful military campaigns in Transcaucasia, allegedly climbed Elbrus to pray. These and other data about the conquest of the giant Caucasus are available in the works of some travelers, but they do not have solid historical evidence.

More reliable data about Elbrus is found in the reports of Russian ambassadors and scientists of the 18th century, when ties between Russia and Georgia began to develop.

The official date of the conquest of Elbrus is considered to be 1829, when an expedition was organized led by the head of the Caucasian fortified line, General G. A. Emanuel. Since the expedition was scientific in nature, the best forces were attracted to participate in it Russian Academy Sciences led by Academician Adolf Kupfer - geophysicist, geologist, founder of the Main Physical Observatory in St. Petersburg. The expedition included physicist Emilius Lenz, zoologist Eduard Minetrier, founder of the Russian Entomological Society, botanical research was entrusted to Karl Meyer, who later became an academician and director botanical garden Russian Academy of Sciences. The architect Joseph Bernardazzi was invited as an artist. In addition, the Hungarian scientist Janos Besse took part in the expedition, having recently completed interesting travels for a number of countries. Later, in 1838, based on the results of his travels, he published the book “Travel through the Crimea, the Caucasus, Georgia, Armenia, Asia Minor and Constantinople,” which still retains educational and scientific value. The auxiliary service of Emanuel's expedition consisted of 650 soldiers and 350 line Cossacks.

The first part of the route from the Konstantinogorsk fortress (present-day Pyatigorsk) to the “Stone Bridge” fortification (on Malka) passed without complications. On July 8, 1829, travelers arrived at the Kharbas River (a tributary of the Malka). From here they climbed to a height of about 2600m and camped near one of the mineral springs on the banks of the Kyzylsu River.

Before the ascent began, Emanuel gathered the Cossacks, Kabardians and Balkars who accompanied the expedition, and announced to them that whoever reached the top of Elbrus would be given a reward.
After a short rest and checking the equipment, the assault on Elbrus began, in which Kupfer, Lenz, Meyer, Minetrier, Bernardazzi and 20 Cossacks took part.
In his travel diary, Kupfer wrote about the beginning of the route:
“Although the valley behind us was obscured by fog, the weather was beautiful. The moon had reached the middle of the firmament, and the light shine of its disk was a pleasant contrast with the blue of the sky, which was the color of indigo. The fog spread like a shroud at our feet, but soon the rays of the sun tore it apart. The valley opened up to our blinded eyes, and before us unfolded a panorama of the mountains forming the first chain of the Caucasus...”

Insignificant experience in mountain climbing, poor quality of climbing equipment, and low calorie content of food made their presence felt. Elbrus was conquered at the cost of great effort. Further in Kupfer's diary we read:
“We moved sometimes in a straight line, sometimes in zigzags, despite the difficulties of the path. The haste with which we sought to reach the summit before the snow was softened by the sun exhausted our strength, and we were finally forced to stop to rest at almost every step. The thinness of the air is such that breathing is not able to restore lost strength. The blood is very agitated. My lips burned, my eyes suffered from the blinding glare of the sun, although I, on the advice of the mountaineers, blackened my face near my eyes with gunpowder. All my senses were dull and my head was spinning. Finally we decided to rest under a huge rock of black trachyte."

Many participants showed signs of altitude sickness: nausea, dizziness, apathy, and therefore, after a short rest from an altitude of 4270m, they decided to go down.

Four people went to storm the summit: Emilius Lenz, Cossack Lysenkov and two people from the group of guides - Killar Khashirov and Akhiya Sottaev. Lentz and the guides accompanying him were forced to descend from a height of 5350m due to lack of strength. Killar Khashirov continued the ascent alone.

The expedition diary says this:
“The descent was very difficult and dangerous. The snow fell, holes formed under our feet, which made it possible to see the drowning abysses. Cossacks and mountaineers tied themselves in pairs with ropes. During this wonderful day, Emanuel observed our movements with an excellent spotting scope. He noticed one person who was ahead of everyone and came out onto the ridge of rocks that form the very top. Emanuel could no longer doubt that one of us had reached the top.”

The brave Kabardian Killar Khashirov was the first to set foot on the top of Elbrus at 11 a.m. on July 10, 1829, strengthened a pole on it, covered it with stones, and after a short rest began to descend.
“When Killar reached the top, a rifle salute was given in the camp in honor of the conquest of Elbrus.”
Assessing the actions of Killar Khashirov in last hours assault and conquest of Elbrus, Kupfer noted that, an experienced hunter, Killar skillfully used the morning cold, and when Lenz was at the site of his last stop, the conqueror of Elbrus was already returning from the newly conquered peak. And Killar arrived at the main base camp, where General Emanuel was located, before other participants.
In a solemn atmosphere, a ceremony was held to honor the conqueror of Elbrus.

By order of the Academy of Sciences, two plates were made with the following text in Russian and Arabic:
“... Camped here from July 8 to July 11, 1829, the Commander of the Caucasian Line, General of the Cavalry Georgy Emanuel, with him were his son Georgy, 14 years old, sent by the Russian government Academicians: Kupfer, Lenz, Minetrier, Meyer, also an Official of the Mountain Corps Vansovich, Mineralnye Vody Architect Ios. Bernardazzi and the Hungarian traveler Iv. Besse.

The academicians and Bernardazzi, leaving the camp located 8000 feet (i.e. 1143 fathoms) above the sea surface, climbed Elbrus on the 10th to 15,700 feet (2243 fathoms), the top of which was 16330 feet (2333 fathoms) only the Kabardian Hillar reached .

Let this modest stone pass on to posterity the names of those who first paved the way to reach Elbrus, which is still considered inaccessible!”

The texts were originally carved in stone, then cast in cast iron. The plates were supposed to be installed at the site of the expedition’s main camp at the foot of Elbrus. However, they were delivered to Pyatigorsk and for more than 80 years they were at the entrance to artificial cave, which General Emanuel once built as a sign of the conquest of Elbrus. Then they were transported to one of the museums in Tbilisi. In Pyatigorsk, at the Podkumok foundry, they cast copies of slabs about the immortal first ascent of Elbrus by a resident of the village of Kuchmazukino (now the village Old fortress, Baksan district, Kabardino-Balkarian Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic) Killara Khashirov.

In 1932 (that is, 103 years later), during a ski trip, the famous Soviet climbers V. Nikitin and V. Korzun discovered an inscription overgrown with moss on one of the rocks in the Irahiksyrt tract and, having cleared it, were able to read the barely noticeable words: “1829 From July 8 to July 11, the camp was under the command of the cavalry general Emanuel.”

The news of the first ascent of Elbrus spread across many countries. However, no further measures were taken to develop mountaineering in Russia. At the same time from foreign countries Several well-equipped expeditions arrive, which, as a rule, did not dare to storm Elbrus. And the few climbing attempts that were made ended in vain.

Elbrus Chronicle

1813 Russian academician Vishnevsky was the first to determine the height of Elbrus (5421 m).
1829 The first to climb Elbrus is a Kabardian, a resident of the Baksan Gorge, Killar Khashirov, the guide of the expedition of General G. A. Emanuel.
1868 Conquest of the eastern peak of Elbrus by an English expedition led by Douglas Freshfield with Balkar guide Akhiya Sottaev.
1874 Climbing Elbrus by English climbers under the guidance of F. Grove, author of the book “Cold Caucasus”.
1875 Publication of the book “Geological Research of the Main Caucasus Range” (with a map of Elbrus).
1884 The ascent of Elbrus is made by a group of Hungarian climbers led by Moritz Deshi in 1889. The first completed traverse completed by Ungern-Sternberg from the western peak through the saddle to the north into the Malki valley.
1890-1896 A. V. Pastukhov, a Russian military topographer and mountaineer, conquers the western and eastern peaks, marking the beginning of the study of Elbrus.
1891 Gotorrid Merzbacher and Ludwig Purtscheller with two guides conquered the western peak of Elbrus, covering the entire path from Terskol to the peak in the shortest time since the beginning of the development of Elbrus - 8 hours.
1907 Geologist V.V. Dubyansky began scientific geological research on Elbrus and in the Elbrus region.
1909 At an altitude of 3200m, the Caucasian Mountain Society built the first half-dugout for five people. This was the first pre-revolutionary building on Elbrus.
1910 Swiss climbers Gugi and De Ramy conquer both peaks of Elbrus in one day.
1911 For the first time, 10 climbing groups visited Elbrus in a year, 4 of which were foreign.
1911 Climbing Elbrus by S. M. Kirov..
1914 Publication of the classic work on the geology of Elbrus “On the petrography of Elbrus”. Author V.V. Dubyansky.
1925 Observations of Elbrus glaciers have begun.
1925 The first Soviet ascent of Elbrus by 19 climbers under the leadership of G. N. Nikoladze.
1925 The first Soviet woman on Elbrus was A. Japaridze.
1927 The first ascent of N.V. Krylenko to Elbrus.

1928 During the year, 32 groups of Soviet climbers climbed Elbrus, while in previous years - from 1829 to 1927 - 56 groups visited there.
1928 The government commission examined mineral springs Elbrus region 1929. A wooden building with 40 seats was built at Krugozor with funds from the Society of Proletarian Tourism and Excursions.
1931 Under the leadership of Professor V.A. Konopasevich, the first circular ski trip around the eastern peak of Elbrus was completed. Five participants climbed to the top from the saddle.
1932 At an altitude of 4200 m, a wooden building with 40 seats for tourists and climbers was built - “Shelter of the Eleven”.
1932-1933 V. Korzun, V. Nikitin and S. Lysenko conduct winter weather observations at Krugozor.
1933 10 Moscow skiers climbed on skis for the first time to the “Shelter of Eleven”; the descent was also carried out on skis.
1933 On the saddle of Elbrus, at an altitude of about 5300m, a high-mountain shelter “Sedlovina” for climbers was built.
1933 Planned training of mountaineering personnel in Tegenekli has begun.
1933 The weather station at the Shelter of Nine, built by the Pyatigorsk Weather Bureau, began to function. Its first winterers were V. Korzun, A. Gusev, A. Gorbachev.

1934 V. Korzun and A. Gusev made the first winter ascent.
1934 The first comprehensive Elbrus expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences began its work.
1935 For the first time in one winter, N. Gusak and V. Kudinov climbed both peaks of Elbrus twice.
1935 The first winter ascent of Elbrus was made by students of the Ordzhonikidze Pedagogical Institute A. Arakelyan, A. Poltoradneva, M. Sveshnikova, Z. Rodkina, E. Chikhradze.
1935 A record for mass visits to Elbrus was set; 2,016 climbers visited the summit during the year. Among them are 638 participants in the collective farm alpiniad of Kabardino-Balkaria in 1937. The first circular ski trip around the Elbrus massif was carried out at altitudes of 3000-4000 m.
1939 The first ski descent from the top of Elbrus to the “Shelter of Eleven” was made by Moscow slalomist V. Gippenreiter.
1939 A three-story hotel began operating at the Shelter of Eleven.
1943 On February 13 and 17, a group of military climbers, participants in the defense of the Caucasus, climbed Elbrus and, throwing off fascist standards, raised the State Flag of the USSR.
1946 In honor of the 25th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria, 40 athletes made the first post-war ascent of Elbrus.
1947 A. Maleinov, V. Gippenreiter, K. Spiridonov made a ski traverse of both peaks of Elbrus.

1950 The ARMS auto weather station is installed on the eastern peak.
1957-1958 Large scientific work is being carried out on the slopes of Elbrus under the program of the International Geophysical Year.
I960. 1,395 athletes took part in the mass mountaineering competition on Elbrus in honor of the 40th anniversary of Kabardino-Balkaria.
1963 The first chairlift in the Elbrus region to Mount Cheget was put into operation. Its length is 1600 m, the height difference is 650 m.
1963 Master of Sports A. Berberashvili climbed Elbrus on a motorcycle.
1965 The high-mountain hotel “Itkol” has opened in the Elbrus region.

1966 The Mi-4 helicopter landed for the first time on the eastern peak of Elbrus (pilots Yu. Rakhmanov and M. Kh Asanshin).
1966 The construction of the second stage of the cable car on Mount Cheget - “Cheget-2” - has been completed.
1967 A new Elbrus attendance record has been set. During the year, 3,224 people visited its peaks, including 2,536 people who climbed in one day in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution
1968 The tourist hotel “Azau” began to operate at an altitude of 2200 m.
1968 The eight-story tourist hotel "Terskol" of the USSR Ministry of Defense was put into operation.
1969 The cable car on Mount Cheget began to operate.
1969 The first cable car was built from the Azau station to Krugozor. Its length is 1,900 m, the height difference is 900 m.
1972 The Elbrus Medical and Biological Station (EMBS) of the USSR Academy of Sciences began to function.
1974 The Cheget camp site was built.
1976 The cable car from the station came into operation. "Krugozor" to the station. "World".
1982 Climbing in honor of the 60th anniversary of the founding of the USSR.
1983 Elbrusiad, dedicated to the 40th anniversary of the liberation of the Caucasus from fascist invaders and the hoisting of Soviet flags on Elbrus.

Elbrus map